318 LA rebuild after losing a valve seat

  • You put the dots at 6 and 12 and just put the distributor in to fire #6. No need to do anything else, unless you want to waste time.
  • I don't fully agree on the need to change valve springs for break-in. It depends on the cam and the actual springs. If the open valve pressures are under 300 lbs, I don't bother. Having the proper level of ZDDP in the oil is far more important if your springs are not too stiff. What springs and cam is this? Or is that info back on the thread?
  • RRR is right on the likelihood of piston to valve contact. But always check. You can buy some light hardware store springs for that task.
Open spring pressure is 274. The cam is the Lunati 10200701LK, .454/.475 lift, 213/220 duration. The springs are the Lunati 73262 with 346 spring rate and 274 open pressure @ .454.

No. You need to always use the matched springs for the cam. The 901 would be perfect.
So, the Lunati springs I have installed are the springs the manufacturer recommends. I'm not understanding something here.

Stock 318, 302 Head single valve springs and retainers and posi-seals. Can't imagine someone throwing these new replacement springs away from the reman build that Rock Auto did.

They are either brand new or have been tested to be with in new specs.

The valve rotators Righty is talking about probably came on his 318, open chambered heads, the ones that dropped the valve seats.
Yeah, I do feel foolish for tossing the springs that came with the heads, but I really didn't think I'd have a use for them. I ended up selling the 901s on eBay, also for the same reason.

The rotators actually came on the 302 heads, and I swapped them out for some standards from the old heads.

Once again, I'm very grateful for all the help. Anytime I feel like I have a stupid question or screw something up, nobody has ever been condescending and always jumps in to help when they can. That certainly fosters a learning/teaching environment. This is a great forum.