Aftermarket cylinder heads?? Which is best for the money??

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Why the iron rockers will not work.
The rocker stands have been moved on the trick flow heads for better geometry. I believe Mike at b3 was involved in this, they now require minimal correction but stock rockers do not work, I mocked up a set of 273 adjustables and it was ugly. If wanting a good rocker on a budget the good news is mancini roller rockers made by harland sharp had really nice geometry and they will sell them as singles very reasonably in 1.5 or 1.6.
 
The rocker stands have been moved on the trick flow heads for better geometry. I believe Mike at b3 was involved in this, they now require minimal correction but stock rockers do not work, I mocked up a set of 273 adjustables and it was ugly. If wanting a good rocker on a budget the good news is mancini roller rockers made by harland sharp had really nice geometry and they will sell them as singles very reasonably in 1.5 or 1.6.

That's good because the HS rockers fit like crap on an Ede head... Bad if you want to run a rocker closer to stock spec.
I think the OP should run an iron J head :lol:
Why not a build similar to the RHS X head engine in the Blue 73 Duster? Looking for more than that one? Maybe a bit more compression and camshaft with a set of TF's. Either that or a well ported set of edes/copies.

As far as getting the engine in a good combo/chassis, the OP knows what he's doing!
 
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That's good because the HS rockers fit like crap on an Ede head... Bad if you want to run a rocker closer to stock spec.
I think the OP should run an iron J head :lol:
Why not a build similar to the RHS X head engine in the Blue 73 Duster? Looking for more than that one? Maybe a bit more compression and camshaft with a set of TF's. Either that or a well ported set of edes/copies.

As far as getting the engine in a good combo/chassis, the OP knows what he's doing!
I like the simplicity of the mancini rocker, more like a crane gold, imo harland sharp made the mancini rockers better than their own .
 
first thanks to PHR and other great posts
OP you have several head builders including IMM here in so cal-- what I used to do

I'd ask about getting a bare head and have it loaded with known quality parts
or
No mater which loaded head you get I'd od hone all the valve stems for straight and then retouch the valve job for concentrict and to make it the way a pro likes it
non concentric valve/ seats break the heads off valves cut forsprings and seals if necessary
now compare your costs/benefits
I'd get with B3 on the rockers- which work best on which heads as
all the arm lengths are different
and some just work better (some have the rocker up on a pedistal for example, or Crane's quick lift BS
Plan on a mid lift set up as quality cam grinders use it to get the valve action they want
(worst thing yo can do is combine quick lift/ quick close with fast intake close like the comp 368)
calculate your compressions with the available gaskets
inspect your heads for surface finish in case you need Cometic gaskets
Be realistic and pick a rpm range before you get in deep so you can pick a cam duration to match which wll give you lift to soot for which will tell you what lift to look at for your head
 
That's good because the HS rockers fit like crap on an Ede head... Bad if you want to run a rocker closer to stock spec.
I think the OP should run an iron J head :lol:
Why not a build similar to the RHS X head engine in the Blue 73 Duster? Looking for more than that one? Maybe a bit more compression and camshaft with a set of TF's. Either that or a well ported set of edes/copies.

As far as getting the engine in a good combo/chassis, the OP knows what he's doing!
Thanks Rob X4406 , I actually have a ad out looking for RhS heads but..I wonder how much difference the EQ heads are, this time i will have cal trac monos etc, when i did the other engine a super victor was recommended but i had a std victor. I would like to get another 40hp and have the rest of the car work this time.
 
Thanks Rob X4406 , I actually have a ad out looking for RhS heads but..I wonder how much difference the EQ heads are, this time i will have cal trac monos etc, when i did the other engine a super victor was recommended but i had a std victor. I would like to get another 40hp and have the rest of the car work this time.
I appreciate every ones suggestions i had a set of rhs heads done by a local guy that does lots of stock super stock stuff about 10 years ago on really basic 410 and it ran well, i know there are a lot better cylinder heads offered today and i figure that would be the best way to go.

DSCN2221.JPG
 
That's good because the HS rockers fit like crap on an Ede head... Bad if you want to run a rocker closer to stock spec.
I think the OP should run an iron J head :lol:
Why not a build similar to the RHS X head engine in the Blue 73 Duster? Looking for more than that one? Maybe a bit more compression and camshaft with a set of TF's. Either that or a well ported set of edes/copies.

As far as getting the engine in a good combo/chassis, the OP knows what he's doing!

HS makes a different set of rockers specifically for Eddie heads. I have a set. They fit ultra nicely.
 
Let’s talk reality for most here and take those loaded heads such as Trick Flows or ProMaxx Shockers, and start adding costs for the average guy that doesn’t do machining, honing, have all the tools to check clearances and runout etc and is not the pro builder that wouldn’t dare do anything other than the full rectal on an otherwise ready to go ootb set of higher end heads? The best he can do are the basics like disassemble the heads and drop the valves in for good bounce and ring, wiggle them in the guides and give them a good visual, clean them good and reassemble. Widely accepted way of checking. Not ideal, acceptable. Or maybe the guy does nothing at all but just looks them over and install. So now they are filled with doubt about not spending all this extra money on ootb heads. What’s the cost specifically of this child’s play machine shop stuff???
 
Let’s talk reality for most here and take those loaded heads such as Trick Flows or ProMaxx Shockers, and start adding costs for the average guy that doesn’t do machining, honing, have all the tools to check clearances and runout etc and is not the pro builder that wouldn’t dare do anything other than the full rectal on an otherwise ready to go ootb set of higher end heads? The best he can do are the basics like disassemble the heads and drop the valves in for good bounce and ring, wiggle them in the guides and give them a good visual, clean them good and reassemble. Widely accepted way of checking. Not ideal, acceptable. Or maybe the guy does nothing at all but just looks them over and install. So now they are filled with doubt about not spending all this extra money on ootb heads. What’s the cost specifically of this child’s play machine shop stuff???

the trick flows can literally be run out of the box safely without checking them. Period
 
the trick flows can literally be run out of the box safely without checking them. Period
Totally agree, I got a set and have no intention of buying into the concept that they need anything further than making sure they’re clean. I’m just asking what the costs of all this so easily rattled off extra work is that some think is mandatory. I’m sure there are others that may wonder what the costs are, regardless of which brand of head.
 
the trick flows can literally be run out of the box safely without checking them. Period
With the exception of valve locks, so can most of the other aftermarket heads
Will they be optimum, maybe or maybe not. The same goes for any aftermarket piece.
But then again, 40 years ago I was spinning home ported rag tag big block 915's 7000 rpm on a regular basis with a fossil of camshaft 557 solid in a 383. LOL
 
Pick your poison in regards to head purchases. Everyone has their own opinion as to what suits their needs. PRH for example can take cobbled up aluminum heads and make them work because that is what he does, knows, and can beat the man at it dollar wise. But it's still his time....

Trickflow-OOTB and Brian from IMM will work up a package deal to correct Geometry, supply rockers, and it's a done deal. Or you may get lucky and find a set of properly done used heads for the right price and save a few bucks... And hope it works out....

Get burnt on a set of castings and you may see it different. Trickflows give you room to grow and I have yet to see them produce a product that required (as in the valve guides in the Eddy's) the buyer to right the ship. That's the value to me. A clearcut path to getting what I want.

JW
 
Yeah! But that’s a good fossil of a cam. So are the heads if you can work them well. From what I’m told, those heads really wake up with some work. Never mind what Jim LaRoy can pull out of them.
With the exception of valve locks, so can most of the other aftermarket heads
Will they be optimum, maybe or maybe not. The same goes for any aftermarket piece.
But then again, 40 years ago I was spinning home ported rag tag big block 915's 7000 rpm on a regular basis with a fossil of camshaft 557 solid in a 383. LOL
 
Yes... Running them on my magnum block with trickflows
Thanks! I knew somebody here was doing it, or at least 90-something percent sure...

How’s the hot rod(s) running?
The Mrs. tearin up the track still?
 
So you are feeding the shafts through the pushrods? Or are you just oiling the adjusters?
there are holes in the rocker that feed through and oil the shafts.

Edit - the adjusters have holes that feed another set of holes that feed the shaft.
 
Thanks! I knew somebody here was doing it, or at least 90-something percent sure...

How’s the hot rod(s) running?
The Mrs. tearin up the track still?
spun a bearing in mine... Oops.. waiting for the crank to show up. So i'm changing some things to put the compression down to 11.75 and got some 1 7/8's headers.
her car is tweaked.. haven't moved it to the new house yet.. She doesn't wanna race again after wrecking it the first time. So it will be a cruiser after it's all fixed up again.
 
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