Dreaded clunk when turning

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gdizzle said:
View attachment 1715479652 And there it is, rotated and there is a roll pin, there is no way to pish it out. So what do i do? Drill it out? Then need to find a new one? Uggg help.
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OK, so you have the roll pin holding that pin in. I know that I have driven them out before.

Trying to think if we came in on the other side of the ring gear by the bearing cap and drive it out from there. I remember things being a tight shot to get on it, but we got it.

Then it is easy to drive back in on reassembly from the open side.

Maybe you can find a youtube video for the 7 1/4 showing someone doing this, and how to get that roll pin out.
 
Get in there with a bright trouble light and look on the left side of the ring gear, and see if you can see that roll pin.

I am thinking you may have to pull that left side carrier bearing cap to get to the roll pin. Mark the cap so you know the side and directionn it goes back on. Leave the right bearing cap on and tight.
 
I am willing to bet one of the other FABO members out in California has done this before.

Maybe you can ask if someone is within driving distance and can come by to help you.

@Cope ???? Out in California or maybe he knows someone close to you in the state.
 
@Tad had a 65 Dart 7 1/4 complete rear end for sale 100 bucks b/o just north of San Diego, can give him a shout.
 
Im at work right now but i will look over this thread when i get home and see if i can help.

Im in central Ca so it's about 8 hours to LA for me. Thats a little to far of a drive.

:)
 
Here is what the 7 1/4 looks like, see how close the differential spider pin is next to the ring gear.

Might be just as easy for the OP to mark and pull the 2 bearing caps . . and if any shims there mark and get them back in where they belong. Then pull out the differential carrier and get it up on the workbench. Leaving the pinion gear/shaft in the rear end housing.

Here you should be able to see that roll pin and drive it out. If not pull the ring gear off of the carrier, drive the roll pin out. push out the diff pin and install your new diff spiders and side gears and reassemble in reverse.

7.25 A.jpg
 
Tad said:
If you come down you can have that rear end for free. Drum to drum and still has the springs on it.
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@gdizzle Here is one of our FABO members with a complete rear 7 1/4 for free ^^^^^^.

But I am thinking you can get your's fixed by looking into it some more.
 
Ring gear bolts left or right hand thread? I remember left hand somewhere but dont recall.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Ring gear bolts left or right hand thread? I remember left hand somewhere but dont recall.
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Good call ^^^^^ I know the ring gear botls on the 8 3/4s are left hand thread. Imagine left hand thread on the 7 1/4" ring gear too.
 
Just want to prevent a simple oversight,mistakes have been made, just hate admitting it. luckily i only broke one,and managed to locate a replacement.
 
In the manual it says the Drive gear bolts are left hand. But what is the drive gear? That big gear? I was hesitant to remove the whole carrier for fear of messing up the measurements that the manual shows. But are you guys saying that if I undo the 2 bolts on each of the bearing caps, that then the entire carrier along with that big gear will simply slide out? Another question is, the kit I bought from Motive has a thread bolt/pin. It does not have a roll pin. Does this mean I would have to reuse my pin shaft and find a new roll pin?? Or os this kit not going to work? I did check the axle shaft into the new side gears and they fit. I am very close to just returning the parts and taking a trip to Wine Country (Temecula) and grabbing the whole thing. But i Need to borrow a truck for that.
 
Yes. The big “ring” gear should be left hand thread.
Take a centre punch,on one side make a punch mark on bearing cap,high near bolt. Then on cover mounting surface make a matching mark. Then do 2 on other cap. I will se if i can find a photo.if you look close you can see my marks.
797D9DB9-C9F3-4E27-AD6C-271658C640D7.jpeg
then pop the bolts/caps. Careful it’s heavy and you may need to pry it out of housing. I use a hefty pry bar. Can leave caps on loose to prevent it from falling out. There will be shims. Mark their location and return them when assembling.
 
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This is great info you guys rock. Let me ask , will that carrier and large gear come out easily or do I need to also remove the gas tank? BTW I have it jacked up on stands on the axle, not the frame.
 
I feel for you, laying under the car. 7.25 inches from tank to lower edge of diff housing is what you need give or take an inch or so. Tank out would give you a little more room,but thats your call, could trash the filler neck grommet.
 
I want to update and conclude this thread. Few things I wish I had known before I started.
Parts list:
Motive C7.25BI $80 gears (amazon)
Felpro RDS12775 gasket $8 (amazon)
REN 67031 Hammer Slide free (oreilly)
REN 67032 Hub puller free (oreilly)
2 bottles of Lucas Synth 75-90 gear oil. $24 Pep Boys
  • Put jack stands under frame rails, not under the axle - way more space to work with
  • Removing right axle shaft was a breeze, the left axle shaft was a bear. It goes through 2 sets of gears. Need the gear puller slide hammer, and the FRONT WHEEL HUB remover tool, the regular Axle removal tool is too large and will not fit the 5 x 4 lug pattern. It took 50 hard hits(slides) before the shaft came out.
  • Putting transmission into neutral helps
  • Chock the front wheels on both sides
  • It is possible to remove both axle shafts without removing the brakes. Also you do not need to disconnect the brake line, nor the parking brake. There is one nut that interferes with the brake cables, but you can pry it away while you loosen the nut. The brake bracket that locks the adjuster will pop out, but you can pry it back in when you are all done.
  • Using permatex on the cover gasket, makes it nearly impossible to clean it off when you go to change the gasket a few years later. Had to razor blade the old pieces of gasket and use brake cleaner to clean it all off...both the case and the cover.
  • The Motive gear kit does not have the correct pin, there is no screwing out of the pin that holds the shaft. There is a small hole for the roll pin on the gear, which I think is impossible to get to with it in the car. Even if you could get it out, the shaft will not come out as it hits the main gear instead. The main gear must be separated from the plate.
  • Removing the bearing caps takes a big breaker bar. Removing the carrier is possible without a prybar, but be ready to catch the spacers and race covers. Mark everything before you pull it out. It is heavy. The race bearings remained on.
  • Need a vice, protect the gears with wood or ? Remove all the bolts holding the gear to the plate, they are all Left hand and there is a L on each bolt.
  • Need a sledge hammer to knock that gear off, using some sort of rod or something to hit is off. It took several hits. Have something ready to catch the carrier when it finally comes apart. I thought it would pry apart with a screwdriver...not.
  • The roll pin needs to be tapped out and you need a really long pin to get it all the way out. Reuse the pin if possible.
  • Now the shaft will come out, swap out all the gears, reuse the shaft if possible.
  • Putting it all back together, getting the gear back tight onto the plate, takes a bit of work. It is just as hard to sledge it off as it is to get it back together. Get bolt holes aligned and put in the bolts. Then start tightening slowly each one as it moves it all closer together.
  • Now putting it back is real fun with only 2 hands, have a piece of wood that you can use to hammer it back in once it seems like it is tight enough to let go. little hits on each side until it is seated.
  • Getting the Left axle back in, just as hard as taking it out, once aligned start hitting the hub, I used wood on the hub then hammer it till it stops moving.
  • Refilling the gear oil, took about 1.5 bottles, so you will have lots extra.
  • Recall that you do not have a Torx wrench that fits that fill hole cap, and that it actually needs a 1/2 rachet drive, without a socket.
  • Don't forget you will need to readjust the brakes.
  • Oh and most importantly, when you are all done, and remove the jacks and go to remove the last chock on the front wheel MAKE SURE THE CAR ISN'T STILL IN NEUTRAL or is will begin to roll down the drive way into the street.

diff gear - 1.jpeg
 
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Some good pointers there. Remove fill plug before you re-assemble diff. In case its stuck, if you have to drill it out its easier. My gmc pickup fill plug is stuck from some gorilla tightening it.
Didnt realize until i had cover sealed up. So i put 1-3/4 bottles of gear oil in through vent. Next time. Since then i check plug before i pull covers.
 
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