Ammeter to Voltmeter...who does it?

My points... First; no actual need to open this fuel gauge.
Second; The switched 12 volt wire to this instrument panel serves no other purpose/item/feature than the limiter. There is no reason to have a 12 volt wire routed to a fuel gauge. the wire and its terminal will fall right out of the round connector. Route it directly to the regulator, wherever it may be located.
Those who open the gauge and simply bend the thingy and don't isolate the gauge from chassis ground can and have had a 5 volt back feed leak though the remains of the limiter. Most will use needle nose pliers to bend the thingy. In doing so they have broken the insulation on the limiters winding shorting it to the beam its wound on. Some portion of that 50 ohms of winding is now shorting 12 volts to ground.
I personally don't care what approach/method is taken. I didn't start the misinformation on the internet so I don't have to correct it. My only goal is help the "do it yourselfers" to understand what is and isn't required.
The fuel gauge and/or limiter are not relevant in this amp to volts gauge thread anyway. Good luck to all.
I used the 12v fuel gage feed stud as a convienent way to jump 12V to the external mount solid state IVR, and to provide a 12V feed to the volt gage. My internal IVR is completely removed from the gage. The stud left behind is originally fed 12V from the pin on the circuit board. I stand by what I did and how I did it. Many different ways to do this. I gave him multiple options since rallye dashes are a *****, and you only want to do all this stuff one time and close it up.