Will this fix my 5.9 magnum oil leak?

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some of the studs have an internal drive, you simply put a 3/8 extension in it, and put a ratchet on the other end

if it has an eternal hex drive you are in for a knuckle busting treat, they are a paint to remove
(you need a 1 inch socket, i believe and you may want to hit it on a belt sander to get the internal bevel of the socket ground off so you get a better grip on it)

now, to answer your question, i really dont know if that will fix your leak or not, because we have no idea where you are leaking from

have you checked to make sure there isnt a filter seal left on there from a previous oil change?

(i helped a buddy with a leaking oil filter on a mid 90s duster and we found 3 O rings, between the filter and the block)

i have also had a leaking rear main, that would drip onto the torque converter, which would then fling it up onto the filter...and since the filter is the highest point i saw oil, guess what i thought was leaking?
 
Time to get under there. There is a ring of oil around the plate and oil is dripping off the filter. I definitely will check for an old filter gasket. Pretty sure it's not the rear main, I've had that before more than once and oil always drips out the bottom where the trans meets the motor and it's dry there right now (rare in itself...lol). This is on a 95 Jeep GC.
 
Nope, no room for anything but OEM under there...control arms and exhaust in the way. I can't even fit a PH8 filter where the PH16 goes
 
I chased a leak that ended up being the gaskets in the 45* adapter.

Not sure I would recommend it, but I was frustrated not being able to find the leak that I finally put the car on Jackstands, started the engine and slid underneath on a creeper. It only took 5 seconds to see the oil dripping down.
 
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Easy enough to clean it off, and tape a shop towel around it

Go for a little drive and see if the oil is on the inside or outside of the towel
(That's how I figured mine out)
 
Came out real easy. 1" socket. Pics below after cleanup of the engine side. There was no gasket, no sealant, no nothing. Metal to metal fit. Thinking of a thin bead of RTV and/or gasket. Any thoughts on that bright idea?

If the leak persists, I'll turn it into a project.
P1000939.JPG
 
DodgeLad said:
Came out real easy. 1" socket. Pics below after cleanup of the engine side. There was no gasket, no sealant, no nothing. Metal to metal fit. Thinking of a thin bead of RTV and/or gasket. Any thoughts on that bright idea?

If the leak persists, I'll turn it into a project.
View attachment 1715484377
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You might want to take a closer look at the block where that was.
The seal behind the plate often hardens up and looks like part of the block casting,

I ALWAYS put a thin film of red RTV on both sides of the gasket between that plate and the block. (that orange seal in your original post)
Some of those plate/stud kits come with a cork gasket that goes between the plate and block around the stud in the center and those really don't matter.

Also note that I always have to tighten the filter more than the recommended amount or they drip on my header tubes.
 
Ordered a Victor rubber gasket. They have paper locally if I need one. Going back out to make sure I'm seeing metal on the block side.
 
Thanks TrailBeast, it's a machined surface. Going to take a awhile to clean the that area of the block due to restrictions. Add a born klutz with old ape hands and arms.
 
I shouldn't need remover unless my eyes are deceiving me. And it came out so easy without a trace of anything showing anywhere. Almost sure it was metal to metal.
 
oldkimmer said:
U can get gasket remover in a spray can. Many kinds to choose from. I like the kinds the dealers use and sell. Kim
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Yea, the stuff that burns your arms if a breeze blows it back at ya.
Mean stuff, but it works.
 
The 'rubber' gasket came in. It's some sort of hard composite...guessing. Installing it dry.
P1000944.JPG
 
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