Anyone here know woodworking?

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DodgeLad

DodgeLad

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I am semi-retired and want to take up woodworking as a hobby. To start, I want to build a few things for around the house, like birdhouses, birdfeeders, planter and planter stands, maybe a magazine rack or two. I just restored a couple planter stands, one oak and the other walnut I think. The job I did is not pro by any means, but it was a rewarding endeavor. And now I get to look at them everyday and admire. And I don't have to roll around on a cold garage floor dealing with a creeper ripping holes in my shirts and pulling out my hair.

So I have come to the conclusion I need a table saw to do miter cuts and dado cuts for half lap joints, for starters. I'm doing miter cuts in a $12 miter box right now and I've gotten decent at it. But the gratification of doing everything by hand has worn off. I looked at new table saws and it's a crapshoot for someone that knows little like myself. I looked on CL, and there appears to be a good selection of old USA made saws, but I don't know enough to find the right one. I'm looking for some sage help in choosing a table saw.

here is a search from my local CL
albuquerque tools "table saw" - craigslist
 
Table saws can be very unforgiving, so I would recommend buying a new one, that way you know it comes with instructions & safeguards.

I use a large De-Walt myself.
 
When we had 'new' kids on the job, I would recommend that they read a book on table saw safety titled 'Blood on the Table Saw' by Three Finger Mike.

The book does not actually exist, but the title made them think.
 
I had a full size table saw when I had room for it. It was a JET and I was very pleased with it. Space became a problem, so I downsized to a foldable Hitachi, which I am also pleased with.
 
Table saw is definately handy.
I still do a lot of miters by hand. Just bought another larger backsaw this winter...
One you've spent time sharpening them - its another world.
Sharpening is definately a little tedious though.
Makes you a lot more careful about how you take care of the blades.

Anyway. You asked about table saws. I'm not an expert but yes an older saw is often a good deal.
Sears are very common.
Of course another company actually made them. But that won't be in the ad or listing in most cases.

8" Saws use blades with a 1/2" arbor hole. Unless you're tight for space in your workshop, pass them up for a 10" saw.
They're not bad, but there's no reason to torture yourself with the oddball size unless its free or your space is tight.

I prefer a solid steel top.
The better saws will have the pulley retained with a keyway in shaft. Lower end ones rely on the pressure from the setscrew. Under heavy load they slip.
Some of the older bench saws have a tilting top. I'd pass on that.
Tilting blade is definately better!
Whether you one that has a base or you want to make your own is up to you.

Attachments.
If you plan to do ripping, an outfeed attachment adds control.
If you plan on cutting long boards, side wings are helpful.

Most of the saws came with a 'splitter' to help with ripping and provide a little more protection.
All saws originally came with the miter square and a sliding fence.
While you can add aftermarket ones, often its easiest to start with the factory fences.

Buy or make a push stick and feather board.

Dust. You may have to make a saw dust container and for underneath. No big deal.
Dust in the air is a big deal and you should think about some way to deal with it. Bigger shop vac with an intermediary bucket connecting close to the saw will help.
 
I agree with mr alaskan, but the quality just isnt there.
Nothing beats a well made american made delta or similar saw. I think the saw stop kit can be adapted to most any saw.
 
Alaskan_TA said:
When we had 'new' kids on the job, I would recommend that they read a book on table saw safety titled 'Blood on the Table Saw' by Three Finger Mike.

The book does not actually exist, but the title made them think.
Click to expand...
We watched a safety film about propellants and explosives.
The premise of the film was we followed a new prospective employee arriving to the job.
He forgets about the sign at the buding door that says no cigerettes or matches and during the interview he asks if he could smoke.
The boss says "say hi to Joe". Joe waves a hand with fingers missing.
Boss says "Joe forgot once too"
 
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I wish my brother in law still lived in town, would be a perfect model of a home woodworking shop. His bench saw was built into a very large table,all the other stuff,bandsaw,miter saw ,drill press,thickness planer and jointer were stragetically placed and all connected to a dust collection system operated by remote.
 
Tooljunkie said:
I agree with mr alaskan, but the quality just isnt there.
Nothing beats a well made american made delta or similar saw. I think the saw stop kit can be adapted to most any saw.
Click to expand...
Delta made some decent stuff.

Table saw is definately dangerous, but hand tools can be as well. Respect them all.
Saw stop is expensive. I figure a guy looking at older used saws isn't interested in that type of expense. I was surprised we didn't use one with out program - we were super safety oriented with the interns and crew.

One problem I find with many portable saws is lack of stability. Its not that they are unstable, but just not rock stable like you want -especially for accurate cuts.
 
I was looking at these earlier
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-13-Amp-Table-Saw/50081568
RIDGID 15 Amp 10 in. Table Saw with Folding Stand-R4518 - The Home Depot

There is a huge old tablesaw along with an old bandsaw in the CL search. The table saw is rusted, but I would love to see it work again. But I'm thinking I'd spend all my time restoring it, which doesn't sound like the end of the world.
Vintage Craftsman Table Saw/Joiner Work Bench - tools - by owner -...

What is a stop kit?
 
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DodgeLad said:
I was looking at these earlier
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-13-Amp-Table-Saw/50081568
RIDGID 15 Amp 10 in. Table Saw with Folding Stand-R4518 - The Home Depot

There is a huge old tablesaw along with an old bandsaw in the CL search. The table saw is rusted, but I would love to see it work again. But I'm thinking I'd spend all my time restoring it, which doesn't sound like the end of the world.
Vintage Craftsman Table Saw/Joiner Work Bench - tools - by owner -...
Click to expand...
That's not actually a big saw.
Its a bench saw with the factory optional wings I mentioned and a homemade outfeed.
The fence looks good. I don't see any other saw accesories.

I wouldn't get hung up on ebay prices. That's like looking at Barret-Jackson prices.
That's not a Barret-Jackson saw.
It may be a good saw. It sucks he let it get wet. I had to deal with one that a couple years ago when my colleages put in the open garage thinking it would be out of the way. Then the rigid saw had issues and I had the fun of putting the antique back into serviceable condition.
I used cloth backed sandpaper and emery for the start, then rust erasers - want to keep the surface flat and true.

You can do an internet search for that Sears part number. Make sure it takes 10" blades.
There is or were couple websites with basic info on old machinery, like who made it and what years.

If you go check out, make sure the blade cranks up and the tilt works.
The motor should stay aligned with the pully as you tilt it.
Most concened that the gears aren't stripped or otherwise messed up.

If you do buy it, see if there is a Woodcraft near you. They often hold classes at their stores, including table saw classes.
 
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Take a look at a Shopsmith. That photo doesn't show half the capabilities they have. I learned on one before I was a teen.
 
Look for a older Powernation, one that’s made in U.S.A. I had a 5hp Powermatic on a mobile base that I sold to make room for my MOPAR. Then look for a older Delta bandsaw, not a bench top. A Jet mini lathe is nice to have, turning pens is a real joy and stress reliever. Don’t forget clamps!
 
I've had this old (maybe '55-ish) Montgomery Wards 10" for years. It sports only a 1 Hp Craftsman motor and twin belt drive. I finally put a wheel kit on it. Now I can roll it in and out of a basement corner so I can actually use it. Still too tight down there to put the other extension on. When I got it the blade height adjust was barley making the gear due to buildup and rust over time. The old thing is heavy but it's solid. Most recent venture with it an octagon window.

upload_2020-3-10_20-47-55.png
upload_2020-3-10_21-12-9.png
 
I love my $100 CL Sears 12" bandsaw, Just dont like the 1/2 horse motor and lack of standard gearbox (rare add-on) to reduce speed for metal work. F it, I just tear through sheet metal at wood speed with a 18 tpi cobalt blade! Can make nice cuts using a fence. Seen some honest table saws made from inverted Skill saws mounted through the table.
 
I have all the goodies and no room to use them. Large table, scroll, band, router and full table, radial arm, lathe, long drum with side disc sander, planer, jointer and more! Donate to my shop! Please!:lol:
 
Spent all my early years in the north, MA. In the wood shop and do not have the room to use my tools! Maybe one day! Unfortunately they are all packed very tightly in a 10x20 shed short of the jointer with the John deer mower and lots more!

I think I need about 1k sqft in floor Space to make it work well. Not cheap!
 
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DodgeLad said:
I was looking at these earlier
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-13-Amp-Table-Saw/50081568
RIDGID 15 Amp 10 in. Table Saw with Folding Stand-R4518 - The Home Depot

There is a huge old tablesaw along with an old bandsaw in the CL search. The table saw is rusted, but I would love to see it work again. But I'm thinking I'd spend all my time restoring it, which doesn't sound like the end of the world.
Vintage Craftsman Table Saw/Joiner Work Bench - tools - by owner -...

What is a stop kit?
Click to expand...

The two new saws are worlds apart. The Rigid is intended to be transported to job sites. If you have room for it the Delta is the easy hands down choice. The wheels give you nice easy movement in the shop. But the really big deal is the fence. The Delta has a Biesemeyer style fence. It won't be up the the standard of a Biesemeyer but its likely a real step up from what you find on most saws in that price range. I have a Rigid in that price range. It's OK but I'd like a better fence. The kit listed below is what many do to upgrade their fence. It's about the price of the Delta saw. There's a reason for paying the price.
Look for some reviews on that Delta to verify people like the fence. If the answer is yes, you will love it.
The table saw is the core piece in woodworking. Don't go cheap. Focus on the fence.
Delta BC50T2 50 in. Biesemeyer Commercial T-Square Fence and Rail System
 
I like worm drive circular saws and table saws that are 220/240 volt capable. Torque wins races and is safer. IMO.
 
As a carpenter all i need to say is Dewalt.

They make the BEST chop saw, miter saw and table saw around.

I use all Milwaukee cordless tools but Dewalt still is the best as far as chop miter and table saws are concerned.

I have posted some of my wood work here so i dont need to re post it but before i went into metal work full time i did very high end wood work.

Dont buy the big sliding miter saw. The 10 inch is probably fine for what you need.

Dato cuts on the table saw are no joke, require an expensive blade, high torque and experience.

A good router will do almost the same thing for less. Then you need a router table and have a big bit spinning out in the open where it really wants to ketch your sleeve and remove your arm.

Me and my pops have almost 80 years of fine wood work experience (combined). If you want any advice or help i would gladly give you my number.

Very few things in life are as satisfying as building nice things, be it with wood, steel or any other media...

Edit- what size shop are you working in?

That will determine what tools you can use effectively.

Folks may say the Dewalt table saw wont do fine work but it will do better than most at half the cost and you can carry it in one hand...

If you dont ever have to move tools, there's better options.

The dewalt chop miter saw i stand by. I have used the stupid expensive "fine" brand saw and i did not care for it. Yeah its miter adjustment is nice but its trigger didn't feel good and the detent in the drop of the saw did not feel safe to me.
 
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I bought my 10" Rigid table saw about 15 years ago and have been pretty happy with it. It's not a jobsite saw. The entire top is cast iron and has a nice fence. Weighs almost 300# and has a kickdown frame attached to the base so you can wheel it around in the shop easy. I think if you buy the same saw now only the center portion of the table is cast, with aluminum wings. Perfect for a hobby woodworker, paid about $550 for it back then.
RIDGID 13 Amp 10 in. Professional Cast Iron Table Saw-R4512 - The Home Depot
 
IMO a quick way to judge a table saw is the quality of the rip fence.

Good ones will have a tight but easily movable and adjustable fence that isn't a pain to remove.

You may also wish to consider a compound, sliding miter saw.

Table saw is good for some things (like full sheets of wood) but most under 8" wide stock is easier to work on a miter saw for me.
 
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You can get pretty creative with sliding compound miter saw. Table saw is good for some stuff, but can be bulky and a pain in the arse to move around or use.
I bought quite a few tools(couple planers, routers, router table compound miter table saw) from dads estate. Dont have near enough room....yet. Makes it easier having them on rolling stands.
Have fun.
I redid the stairs at home, turned out good. Look nice. I hired company to do the railing and I stained/varathaned.

20200311_082811.jpg
 
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