95 Dakota build

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Bronson77

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Hey everyone. Getting ready to start a 1995 Dodge Dakota build. Truck currently has a 5.2 mag and a 46rh tranny that needs rebuilt. Also has 3.55 gears and a suregrip. Truck is a extended cab and is 2 wheel drive.

Going to be asking a lot of questions and seeking advice etc... I am reading a lot on here though. This truck is in excellent shape body wise unbelievable that I found it here in Ohio. Will try to get pics soon.

I will be running Stock heads with the Hughes spring upgrade on them. Also will be using a Chinese Air Gap. Plan on swapping to either 3.90 or 4.10 gears it has a 8.25 rear. I have decided to keep the 46rh tranny it will need rebuilt though. So will be going with a 2800 rpm stall converter.

Would u run a 5.2 or 5.9? Truck has the 5.2 in it runs etc... but I can pick up a 5.9. This is the cam I have down below. Based on the cam and the other specs would u go 5.2 or 5.9? Will b stock bottom end and stock heads except for the spring upgrade. Thanks

3A786FC5-E85B-4EDE-95AC-775D8762E84D.png
 
your truck is like my 92
you are going to have to trim your guides
is that a regrind?
you are going to need longer pushrods if so
that cam wants more compression than you have with a stock short block
I'd stick in a 93-95 360 with stock FI and run it
or a later 360 with the later computer and get that running
get the trans rebuilt
you have to find out if you have the early slightly smaller shaft or the later slightly larger one
find a 47 rh and transfer al the guts if early or swap trans oops
you need to stick with hyd shift RH if you go crb o buy an aftermarket trans contoller if you go RE

I run the diesel straight cut gears and diesel # of plates in my 92 with a trnsgo reprogramming kit
 
Cam is a regrind. And I will be running a carb. The tranny is a 46rh so it’s hydraulic. I was thinking of going 904 or 727 but have decided to just reuse the 46rh. I have a set of stock magnum heads that have the Hughes springs on the them. Also have the Chinese air gap. I want to run carb. Can’t tune OBD1 so going carb. Maybe I should get a different cam? I do have this one though
 
You could cut the heads and use the thinnest head gaskets you can get to increase your compression some. Bigger cams require higher compression. Neither the 5.2 or 5.9 have that stock. 65'
 
If you run an automatic transmission, I would go with the 904 instead of the 727. Trying to put the 727 is a very tight, almost impossible fit on the floor pans.
 
Going to just stay with the 46rh and have it rebuilt that way driveshaft crossmember will work plus I can keep the overdrive.
 
I’d run the 5.9 & 20*’s more duration on the cam with the milled heads.
9.5-1 would do it. 10-1 max.

What do u mean by 20*’s more duration on the cam?

Sorry I’m sorta of a newbie. And apologize for the questions. I can wrench etc... but this will will be my first time installing a cam and trying to degree one and doing the timing..... Once my father passed away got out of the hobby but this Dakota offered a excellent opportunity to get back into a Mopar. I have changed trannys, intakes, etc all on Mopars in the past just nothing like a cam. I did order a couple of books to help. I could always get another cam, got a deal on this and got it. Thanks again guys I appreciate the help
 
What do u mean by 20*’s more duration on the cam?

Sorry I’m sorta of a newbie. And apologize for the questions. I can wrench etc... but this will will be my first time installing a cam and trying to degree one and doing the timing..... Once my father passed away got out of the hobby but this Dakota offered a excellent opportunity to get back into a Mopar. I have changed trannys, intakes, etc all on Mopars in the past just nothing like a cam. I did order a couple of books to help. I could always get another cam, got a deal on this and got it. Thanks again guys I appreciate the help


he means 20 degrees more duration on the cam for intake and exhaust...


I would also recommend using Rhoades variable duration lifters with the extra duration as they will provide low end torque, and vacuum without sacrificing mid and top end... It will come off the line much stronger and will allow you to run a lower stall torque converter for the cam...
 
So the 20 degrees would come from degreeing the cam correct?
 
Would this be a better cam for what I have? Although I would like to run the one I have but I can always sell it. Or just run it with your advice. Here is another cam I can get

A3073863-A223-499C-AA87-67D8C6059CAE.png
 
I see nothing wrong with either cam. The hughes spring kit is nice as well. If you have access to a 5.9, it would be a benefit.
 
318willrun yes I do have access to a 5.9 So that’s what I will do. I will just run the cam I have which is the first cam I listed. The heads have the Hughes kit on them.
 
he has a hr and rhodes hr lifters??
he has a 727 size trans already
find a 47re core for a set of hd upgrade parts
two answers
run what you have
or run the shorter cam if quick and cheap change whose cams?
20 degrees more? maybe after the 3.91 gears 4.10 much harder to find
5.9
20 degrees more from degreeing NO
did you say headers?
what cores are used?
 
What do u mean by 20*’s more duration on the cam?

Sorry I’m sorta of a newbie. And apologize for the questions. I can wrench etc... but this will will be my first time installing a cam and trying to degree one and doing the timing..... Once my father passed away got out of the hobby but this Dakota offered a excellent opportunity to get back into a Mopar. I have changed trannys, intakes, etc all on Mopars in the past just nothing like a cam. I did order a couple of books to help. I could always get another cam, got a deal on this and got it. Thanks again guys I appreciate the help
Yes. But that was a trigger finger reply and forget the weight of the truck is a bit up there. You have the converter and gear to run more cam duration but since you have that cam, just use it.
 
The cam is a Ebay regrind done by a shop in Dallas.... I do not have Rhodes lifters but could pick them up.

As far as headers go do not have them cause they are not available for this truck. So I was planning on using the stock magnum exhaust manifolds. There are shorty headers available but no full length headers. Did see that Hooker list a full length set for 88-90 I believe. And have heard they will fit newer trucks. But they are almost $600 I would pay that but don’t want to be stuck with a set I can’t return. Maybe shorty headers over the stock manifolds then?

This is a budget build but I can also space it out to have more funds etc... My goal is to try to get the truck into the 13’s or possibly high 12’s. Yes the truck being a extended cab weighs a bit.

I will be running a 2800 rpm stall from PATC along with there kit to run the OD. And I can run 3:90 or 4:10 or 4:56 gears. I’m having that done at a local shop and will be supplying the parts. Never missed with a 8.25- have changed a center section on a 8.75 but the rear gear change has been put into the budget.

I should have got advice for the cam before I purchased it. I could sell it and pick another one. But I think I will just go ahead and use it I have it.

I will also plan on going with a 5.9 I have access to several of them.
Thanks for all the advice. Once again sorta new at some of this.
 
Bear in mind "engine balance" between 5.2 and 5.9. So far as I know the only issue there will be to keep the matching 5.9 balancer, and to use the proper flex plate for the 5.9. Those have the weights on the flexplate. Also keep in mind that high stall converters for a lockup (A500/ A518) are more expensive than the older transmissions.
 
Look for a Dakota R/T or Durango axle with 3.92 gear and limited slip.

Lots of Durangos in U-Pull yards.
 
I was recently dreaming about fixing up a 2000 Dakota R/T. Then the smog thing came up. C.A.R.B. headers are available but not much else. I love these little trucks and look forward to seeing some at the local shows.
 
In Ohio in the County I live in once a vehicle is 25 years old they no longer do emissions testing. That’s why I’m gonna run a carb.
 
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