Scored Main Cap Bearing - Ouch
- Thread starter blewbyoutobad
- Start date
-
I have always primed my engines to 30 psi right before fire up. So I dont think dry start up.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Overtorqued or over spec journals are other things will shine your bearings like that.
Post 151 is for a modified oiling system, but basically correct.
The thrust main surfaces on the crankshaft look good. You saved it. Check the endplay when you get the new bearings.
I'd check the outer section of the filter for evil stuff. If clean, then run some long Q-tips thru the crank oiling holes. Tape off and cover the rear main area and seal up the rest of the oil pan area. Then grind the flywheel bolts for clearance. Note that the rods and mains must be assembled with the old bearings [just snug is ok] so you can turn the crank to shorten the bolts.
Clean and install new bearings. Assemble and run engine at low RPM for a while. If quiet, road test!
The thrust main surfaces on the crankshaft look good. You saved it. Check the endplay when you get the new bearings.
I'd check the outer section of the filter for evil stuff. If clean, then run some long Q-tips thru the crank oiling holes. Tape off and cover the rear main area and seal up the rest of the oil pan area. Then grind the flywheel bolts for clearance. Note that the rods and mains must be assembled with the old bearings [just snug is ok] so you can turn the crank to shorten the bolts.
Clean and install new bearings. Assemble and run engine at low RPM for a while. If quiet, road test!
I just posted that picture to help guys get a small idea of oil flow and routing. I love this old book and the tech in it but it does have flaws. If you look at the vertical oil line on the far left hand side with the pressed in 9/16 plug we are talking about that line does not go to the lifter oil galley. That line goes to the oil sending unit.
PT70 I have done all these except the filter yet and the bolt grinding. The oil holes are all clean and all the rod bearings are in now, but not torqued (what a pain). Finishing up the mains and will post pics of all journals before I torque anything. Im keeping my fingers crossed that it has been saved. When they ground the crank it left sharp edges around the chamfers so every oil hole got polished with 400/600/1000 and checked for cleanliness with my long detail q swabs.
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
The Guy that ground your crank should be beaten with a knotted plow line.
Ouch!!
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
That is an old line from one of the best Clint Eastwood movies ever made.
The Outlaw Josey Whales
Oh man that sounds like it hurts. I say do it like they did in the old bible days, 49 lashes in public. If we brought back public beatings I bet we would a lot less crime. I digress.
Love that movie and most Clint movies.
Heres some pics of the journals. All rod bearings in but not torqued. End play checks at .008, maybe on the high end but not much I can do about it. working on installing all the main bearings now and waiting for my comeric rear double lip seal. Ok so I have 6 qts of Comp Cams break in oil, use it or fill it with 30Wt for quick flush then install the Comp Cams oil.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
What a pain in the A huh?
I did all the lower bearings in my Wifes car because the previous owner wiped a cam lobe and just kept driving it.
It tore up the first two rear most mains and the rod bearings for 7&8.
Not to be a whiney baby, but please put some pieces of plastic/rubber fuel line over your con rod bolts during the repair, so as they don't ding the crank journals!
gzig5
Well-Known Member
I’d almost bet whoever worked the crank chamfered the oil holes after grinding the journals. Jamming a countersink bit in typically raises a burr on the periphery, even with a sharp tool. Looked like that burr didn’t get knocked down.
Every hole had sharp edges, mains and rods.
stixx
Well-Known Member
Other biblical punishments come to mind...
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
I'd use the Comp oil and then change it out after a few 10's of miles, along with the filter, to a longer running type of oil. Inspect the oil and filter when changing.
Just waiting for the rear seal to arrive. Then install and torques all main caps, then rod caps. Nothing ugly in the bottom of the oil pan but was some metallic, very fine. Tomorrow I will open the filter, other than that its almost ready to go.
famous bob
mopar misfit
.008 aint bad if ur THRUST cap is lined up perfectly, thats the most important . YOU`LL HAVE MORE THAN .008 ON THE ROD SIDE CLEARANCE MOST LIKELY ---------
.008 side clearance wouldn’t bother me at all. With that said it may tighten up some once he torques all the main caps down. His rod side clearance will or should be way tighter than most of our builds as I think he is running a stock rod. Us guys running Chevy rods in our strokers have lots of rod side clearance.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Yes... SCAT rods come out of the box with around .025" side clearance. Not any issue that I am aware of....
So John what should stock rod clearance be?
I will be waiting for two more weeks for a Cometic double lip seal. Should I wait or use the Mr Gasket single lip that I already have. I can not find one in stock anywhere.
It’s been so long since I’ve played with a stock rod, stock crank combo I would be guessing honestly. But I know it way tighter.
-
