My 1966 dart race car.

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Up date, I have been super frustrated lately with this build, mostly with the pistons. I will not call out the piston company that fucked up but now that it is fixed the real building begins. So the pic below please tell me what is wrong with this picture please? I was hanging the pistons to start assembly when I noticed. They fixed the mistake, it just took an extra 3 months.

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thought you gave up for a career in weaving Elvis blankets to sell on the street corner.... four bolt caps? I'd have stuck with just two on a stock block. We actually ran some steel BCR caps on our 340 block.
 
A body said:
thought you gave up for a career in weaving Elvis blankets to sell on the street corner.... four bolt caps? I'd have stuck with just two on a stock block. We actually ran some steel BCR caps on our 340 block.
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Yes on the four bolt since I had those milodon ones sitting around I just did the work myself installing them but had a real shop "Not my half a two car garage drill press machine shop" line hone it. I agree I would have gone two bolt also but this was what I had laying around and have set them up before so it was a day in the shop and 70 bucks for a line hone for peace of mind. I tried for 6 months or more to find a real block but they sell faster than I can even make the phone call, and I am not ready to dance with the devil :Ritter block. In fact I had a down payment on one but retracted after Shilo and I talked. Like I said before no matter what happens with this block/engine this will be my last LA stock block in this car or in anything that makes over 500hp or revs over 6,500rpm. Since I work in the industry "Crower" I have very cheap access to a R5/P7 setup that are 100% complete just need adapter plate. But that is something I don't want to think about right now. I just want this hodgepodge of crap to just do better than what I had before to make this exercise in futility worthwhile........is that even possible???????
 
bOb shingler said:
refreshing to see some that has selected the correct style rod for their motor.
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Funny enough this whole engine was build around those crower rods. They are leftover rods that someone had custom made/paid for two sets 12+ years ago and never picked them up. Since the last block had a slight crack in two bores which would allow superheated steam on two rods which destroyed them i needed a set of rods. C-C 6.136, 927 pin, designed for a 2" crank journal, they are B5 style rods good to 1,500+ hp so complete over kill but once again it is what I had.
 
as of this day 7/20/17 my new pistons are being made and will be done in 6 weeks. So now I am having piston to valve clearance problems even tho I gave them my cam card. The pockets they made were only 0.275" deep and at 10 degrees after intake and 10 degrees before exhaust the piston hits the valve with zero clearance so I made this up for them so It can be made right this time. Third time's a charm.

Ps these numbers are at lobe numbers and need to have 1.6 rocker multiplied added in.

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Can you give us some more info on the K member and front suspension?
 
Tory’s K.... nice piece

A couple cars have completed drag week utilizing them.
 
Matts440 said:
Link to this k member? That's a awesome piece
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justinp61 said:
What lower ball joints does it use? I can't read the decal, who's K member is it? I'd like to have something like it on my street/strip Dart.
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I am going to help him set up a Facebook page soon, maybe even this weekend. He is sending me lots of pics and I will share a link when I get it up and going.
 
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aftermarket K afforded the room for kick outs on both sides... if I had to do it again I’d gone a little more depth. But this one did serve me well as it just barely touched the ground on my wheel stand. Still enough to damage it, but no oil loss.
 
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