Transmission Cooler Line Repair

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Well, yesterday I replaced the blown out rear servo spring retainer with a billet piece, installed my new valve body, my new speedometer gear and buttoned up everything.

Today I'll bolt the transmission back to the engine with my new higher stall converter, finish my broken line repair and make all my connections. ....

Should be able to test drive tonight or tomorrow morning!

Jeff

I put a "Like" on your latest post, now let me tell you another scenario about cooler lines and a lost car over them that's a little different than the car catching on fire from the fluid.

I used a hose to do a temporary repair on a cooler line (once).
The hose blew and sent the fluid all over the ground while I was driving the car, so I pulled into a parking lot and got a ride to a store to get a compression fitting and some more fluid.
Came back a little while later and the car had the hood, trunk and roof caved in and it was on fire with flames coming out of all the what used to be windows.
Vandalized while I was getting the parts.

1969 Roadrunner 440 Magnum high performance police motor/727

By the time the fire dept got there and got it out the 727 and even the aluminum wheels were puddles on the ground. (total loss)

I found out who did it, but he had gotten caught in bed with someone elses Wife and was shot to death (both of them) before I could plan his future for him.
I didn't want him dead, just wanted to wake him up with me standing over his bed with a baseball bat.
 
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Ok...I'll use a 3 to 4 inch piece from my cooler kit for a short while until I purchase a whole new line...

Thanks guys!

A&A Transmission sent me:
3000-3400 stall converter
Matching flex plate
39 tooth speedometer gear
High performance valve body
Billet aluminum rear servo retainer (the whole reason for this!)
And new converter bolts

Transmission is out on my bench and with a 3 day weekend, should be a fun time and driving again on Sunday! Burning rubber and chirping 2nd gear!

Jeff

Sounds fun.

You can ever-so-slightly flare the ends of the hard lines using a flaring tool you are going to fit the transmission/power steering compatible hose on to help it not blow off. Be sure to file the edge to remove any sharpness.

Also, use 2 fuel injection style clamps on each end of the hose; It will help the hose not to blow off the hardline. Regular "Hygear" style hose clamps cut into the hose a lot easier than the band style EFI rated hose clamps.

There is a small tool available that can form a ridge in the hardline about 1/4" from the end of the lines. I bought mine from Summit. I forget the actual name of it, but they come in a variety of sizes for different lines. You stick it in the end of the tube and tighten the two nuts, which expands 3 small ball bearings as the tool turns forming a ridge in the hardline. It works easiest on aluminum line, but will work on steel line. It's not very effective at stainless line though.
 
Glad this post is up... pulled my radiator and my trans cooler line is no good at the connection to the radiator although fluid still goes through it the pressure is probably off the charts. Can I cut this off and run a little piece of trans cooler hose maybe 6 inches worth until I get some new trans cooler hard lines?

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Glad this post is up... pulled my radiator and my trans cooler line is no good at the connection to the radiator although fluid still goes through it the pressure is probably off the charts. Can I cut this off and run a little piece of trans cooler hose maybe 6 inches worth until I get some new trans cooler hard lines?

You will need to cut that twisted end off, salvage the nut , flare a new end and splice in a short length of rubber trans line. Best to use 2 clamps per side on the hose and retorque them again after a heat cycle.
 
You will need to cut that twisted end off, salvage the nut , flare a new end and splice in a short length of rubber trans line. Best to use 2 clamps per side on the hose and retorque them again after a heat cycle.

That's what I did. Kind of. I got a 1/8 NPT to 5/16 barb hose fitting so I didnt have to use an adapter. Cut the metal line and ran a rubber hose. 2 clamps per side and added an extra clamp the the other line that was already done this way.

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Received my new lines today. ...
Any tips on threading these suckers past the engine? ??!!!!

Jeff
 
Received my new lines today. ...
Any tips on threading these suckers past the engine? ??!!!!
Jeff
Disconnect negative battery cable.
I have never replaced these lines. I have pulled original lines from a late model parts car that didn't have a radiator in it. The lines pulled right out above the yoke/lower valance. Good luck
 
Wish I could help there but all I can remember is getting it up in the air as high as possible helps. Make sure to unhook the battery as Redfish said just in case one touches the starter positive lead.
 
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