Tranny pan gasket

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Tad

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Replacing my tranny pan and gasket. It has a rubber gasket. Should I use any kind of sealant with it as well?
 
Is this normal? Just some sludgy stuff nothing solid.
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No, u never use sealer of any kind on a tranny. The excess gets sucked into the valve body and causes problems. That’s too much crap on the filter. If it’s working out in a new filter and fluid and call it good. Kim
 
when I dropped the pan in my 02 ram 2500, it had a reusable trans pan gasket! It was perfectly sealed before and it is still perfectly sealed after reuse. It is a super slick idea.
 
If it's an old stock pan, check the mating surface w a straightedge. It had to be darn perfect to not weep. I use a thin coat of sealer, like see through thin, only on the pan side, away from the inside edge so excess doesn't end up in the trans. The black bits you have are a little weird.
 
On a factory steel pan the only thing I ever used is a “very” light tack of 3M yellow gorilla snot, pan side only.
 
I use the rubber reusable gaskets now. If I use a cork gasket it gets coated with indian head gasket shellac. No leaks.
 
I used the rubber gasket. No sealant. I didn’t know they were reusable. Guess I have an extra now.
 
Get the reusable gasket as mentioned. A bit more money but the last one you will ever need. NO sealant or adhesive of ANY KIND EVER on a transmission pan. I don't give a fig who says WHAT.
 
Tad said:
I used the rubber gasket. No sealant. I didn’t know they were reusable. Guess I have an extra now.
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the reusable gasket is like an 1/8" thick hard black plastic with a printed silicone double bead on both sides. It is NOT rubber. They cost like $20 or $25. Not cheap in the short term, but more than pay for themselves in the long run. I've heard they're good for at least a half dozen reuses. Also they don't distort the pan sealing surface like a rubber or cork gasket, when the bolts are tightened.
 
Always look at the sealing surface on the pan. Tightening the bolts always distorts the pan around the bolt holes. Spend some time hammering it flat again in your vise for no leaks.
 
Thank you. I went with a new deep pan. Had to modify the filter spacer as I have a 65 tranny and 2 pumps. Pan now has a drain plug so shouldn’t have to remove it again unless I need a new filter.
 
I agree with not using silicon. I dont use it on engines either with the exception of a small dab on the corner of intakes and rear main seal. I suggested the indian head gasket shellac because it seals like a ****, its easy to remove later and will not get in your transmission.
 
Use the red fiber Duprene gasket; about $3.50. No sealer whatsoever. Do not straighten the pan; instead knock the holes down further than straight at least 1/16" to 1/8". The bolts will press the surface exactly as it is needed. Never any leaks.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
Use the red fiber Duprene gasket; about $3.50. No sealer whatsoever. Do not straighten the pan; instead knock the holes down further than straight at least 1/16" to 1/8". The bolts will press the surface exactly as it is needed. Never any leaks.
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Do u have a link for that pan gasket. Thanks. Kim
 
Please be aware that the new gaskets typically use slightly longer bolts. Stock short ones may be an issue on older transmissions that have the first few threads getting weaker. I think Mancini and A&A sell the gasket and longer bolts.
Tom Hand
 
VOETOM
I installed a tranny stud kit from Jegs in my 904. It makes pan remoal/installation easier, along with the gaskets Rusty mentioned.
Dave
 
VOETOM said:
Please be aware that the new gaskets typically use slightly longer bolts. Stock short ones may be an issue on older transmissions that have the first few threads getting weaker. I think Mancini and A&A sell the gasket and longer bolts.
Tom Hand
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Dangit, now you guys are going to make me comment in this thread even though it was coming up on enough said already.

There are a few different "rubber" pan gaskets.
The one Tom commented on is the black OEM style rubber over a steel core and are thick enough to possibly warrant longer bolts or even studs.
These are the ones the OEM uses on 42RH overdrive transmissions. (and probably others of the same species.)

Then there's the crappy rubber gasket about 1/8 thick that comes from your average parts place. (Those suck just as much as cork IMO)

All the best sealing and reusable gaskets are rubber over steel, or rubber over aluminum and thicker.
These also need zero sealants of any kind.
 
It seems like the folks that want reuseability are the ones who have leaks. Why would anybody want reuseability when gaskets are cheap? A reuseable gasket costs about ten times more than the cheapest gaskets; 7-8 times more than the Duprene non-reuseable. If you're going to be taking your pan off a lot, then buy a cast aluminum pan and use the cheapest gasket you can find, or just silicone. Tin pans leak because they distort; that's it; and then they aren't straightened properly. Steel pans have to be straightened every time they're re-installed. Even the cheapest gasket wouldn't leak if it wasn't for pan distortion.
 
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