Budget Rocker choice

COMP Pro Magnums 1.6 or PRW stainless 1.6

  • Comp Pro Magnum

    Votes: 9 60.0%
  • PRW stainless 1.6

    Votes: 6 40.0%

  • Total voters
    15
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Harland Sharp seems to be the best. A friend bought my extra set of Speedmasters and didn't like the way they fit. He bought sharps and they were almost perfect out of the box. He still had to do some shimming to get them right though. I think any rocker will have to be shimmed or clearanced to be made correct.
i put Harland sharp on my Ram - zero issues.
 
The PRW is a similar rocker to the Comp Pro Magnum, but it’s def not a “copy” of it.

The way the struts extend out away from fulcrum area on the PRW’s create clearance problems in some applications where a Comp fits with plenty of room.

CD49633C-63D4-4EC7-9187-747E5B3463FE.jpeg


F6F5C66E-541E-46A2-B216-A4335048B749.jpeg
 
The same head that had the interference with the PRW rockers had no issue at all with a Crane Gold or a Comp Pro Magnum.
They both had plenty of room.


View attachment 1715491497
I get it. But if the shaft had been relocated to optimize the geometry, it would have had more. Again, it's just a symptom. Clearance, or lack of, doesn't mean good geometry. Excessive sweep is also a symptom, and I'd bet a paycheck it still has that.

The rockers with a clearance issue are likely designed on a computer screen, with proper geometry (ie stand height) in mind. When mounted on the incorrect stand height, then it becomes a problem.

If stand height wasn't important, why has Trick Flow gone to the trouble of raising the rocker shafts considerably in both the big block and small block heads? And, why do they say to only use roller rockers with their heads? They could have just copied a factory head, just like everyone else. Btw, I should have the new T&D rockers for the TF small block heads next week.
 
what B3 says
others
they may clear but so what
a wide sweep wears the guides

yr mentioned more lift in an early post
with iron or stock rockers we used lash cap equal to half the lift increase from stock
way befo all the mid lift chatter but did keep from overarcing
sssh - it was obvious, you coul see it make a difference
 
I get it. But if the shaft had been relocated to optimize the geometry, it would have had more. Again, it's just a symptom. Clearance, or lack of, doesn't mean good geometry. Excessive sweep is also a symptom, and I'd bet a paycheck it still has that.

The rockers with a clearance issue are likely designed on a computer screen, with proper geometry (ie stand height) in mind. When mounted on the incorrect stand height, then it becomes a problem.

If stand height wasn't important, why has Trick Flow gone to the trouble of raising the rocker shafts considerably in both the big block and small block heads? And, why do they say to only use roller rockers with their heads? They could have just copied a factory head, just like everyone else. Btw, I should have the new T&D rockers for the TF small block heads next week.


It's amazing how many will go to great lengths to make a rocker fit...changing brands, using beehive springs, grinding the hell out of the rockers, when the correct fix is to move the shafts.

I've seen this my whole life with Chrysler guys.

Fix the geometry and fix it correctly. Never EVER grind on a rocker arm. EVER.
 
It didn't solve anything. Beehives are not new, and they are not a fix all. I've used them, but never again. They ain't all that. They won't out perform a standard coil spring.

Fix the geometry.

I never said they're new or a fix all. I don't recall ever saying they outperform a standard springs either. Did I? For 99% of the folks on this site, beehives will work just fine and any tiny amount of incorrect geometry in the valve train would never be noticed. We're not all building all out race cars here.
 
Just use beehives - SYMPTOM solved.
There, I fixed it for you.

How much is "tiny"? That's a relative term. It can't be measured. I can tell you that I've seen geometry that was in error well over 50%, and the average is about 30%. That is measureable, and hardly tiny.
 
I never said they're new or a fix all. I don't recall ever saying they outperform a standard springs either. Did I? For 99% of the folks on this site, beehives will work just fine and any tiny amount of incorrect geometry in the valve train would never be noticed. We're not all building all out race cars here.


If it was a "tiny" amount you may be correct.

But since you have never corrected the geometry on anything, you should refrain from claiming not everyone needs it.

Junk is junk. If the rockers hit the springs, a beehive didn't fix anything. It's not like we are talking about running a 1.685 diameter spring. We are talking about running basically stock junk.

Why cobble it together rather than fix it?
 
Boy, I wonder how anyone kept their junk engines running before these fancy geometry kits came about? Must have been just dumb luck I guess.
 
Harlands were HORRIBLE for years on Ede's and the suggested fix was an even bigger mess.

Sometimes things have to go together without extra parts. Is getting geometry correct a good thing, yep. Is it done all the time, no.
 
we did not have the roller rocker FAD
roller tip rockers just bolted in wear the guides
especially using Cranes quick lift rockers
the stock shaft low pivot install is just as bad
we used to make our own stands to get it right
especially on LA motors with the short valves
to use bbc and BBM springs or 2" Battleship style springs with the long valves necessary to make these work
If you can run roller rockers just dropped in = you do not need them
 
Harlands were HORRIBLE for years on Ede's and the suggested fix was an even bigger mess.

Sometimes things have to go together without extra parts. Is getting geometry correct a good thing, yep. Is it done all the time, no.
That's what my buddy put them on. (older Eddies) Yes, he had to shim and grind a bit. None work out of the box. He should have got the shim kit. :BangHead:
 
the shims are a joke
you need a quarter inch = _ (the radius of the roller)
and also back
 
Why don't they build spacers for the stands? Then use longer pushrods. Would that correct the issue? I used the comp pro's 1.5 and only have the size of a pen tip on the valve tip centered. It would be good to know.
 
I had a wide patch myself. It took a minimal amount of shimming to get it really nice. I had a thread in it. After the thread wrapped up. I went back with some shims. The result was excellent on that threads head and set up. Others have been worse.

I have a Hughes 1.6 rocker on milled Edelbrock heads.
It is horrible, a completely other end of the spectrum fit from what I did last. Like insanely different. There rocker shim package will never do the job.
 
I have a Hughes 1.6 rocker on milled Edelbrock heads.
It is horrible, a completely other end of the spectrum fit from what I did last. Like insanely different. There rocker shim package will never do the job.
Why do you think this is happening?
Is it the heads or the rockers? Or both?
I have been think of upgrading to a set of Edelbrock heads, not so sure anymore.
 
Mine were off a lil toward the exhaust and I put a .010 shaft shim in to get the tip centered and seems to be ok. There is a lot of angle on the ball tip side when open tho.
 
Why do you think this is happening?
Is it the heads or the rockers? Or both?
I have been think of upgrading to a set of Edelbrock heads, not so sure anymore.
Both of the heads are Edelbrock heads, the Hughes engines is milled a bit.
There are 3 other variables. Hughes rockers vs Comp rockers, cam differences. Deck height was milled to provide a zero deck with KB-107’s on one engine, stock deck height on the other engine.
 
Both of the heads are Edelbrock heads, the Hughes engines is milled a bit.
There are 3 other variables. Hughes rockers vs Comp rockers, cam differences. Deck height was milled to provide a zero deck with KB-107’s on one engine, stock deck height on the other engine.
I see
So just like all aspects of engine building the Devil's in the details.
And if you choose to ignore the Devil he going to bit you in the ***.
 
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