Best Penetrant to Remove Differential U-Bolts?

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U bolts are cheap. The fight isnt worth $30 imho.
I bought new ones for the barracuda,i have removed my diff 6 times now, roll it in shop, set up rotisserie and pull diff and springs.
Sunday i re-assemble and roll it back into storage.

I don't disagree. Plus, you are not supposed to reuse those U-bolts. If they are tough to get off, I throw them away. If they break loose easily, I will reuse them......but again, they are supposed to be a one time use.
 
I read somewhere that replacement u-bolts are not flat (like factory ones( where they contact the differential tubes and when you tighten them down, they actually dent the tubes. Any truth to that?
Mancini has the correct U Bolts.
 
like said!
use what you like but give it some time to work. You can't reduce 50+ years of crude in 10 minutes!
 
Of all the stuff I've used PB blaster has always worked best. Except every time I use it My sense of smell is messed up for at least a day.
 
I cant stand the smell of PB blaster. One drop gets on you and you smell it for a week.
Kroil is the best, hands down.
 
Any the above. PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or Kroil. Then time, and patience. Brush the exposed threads with a small wire brush first. Allow the penetrant to soak for a day. When you put your socket on ti, try tightening first but only 1/16 of a turn. Then loosen but do not try to remove all at once if it gets so hard to turn it feels like it will break. Work the nut back and forth until it comes off easily.

Some folks just cut and replace all the U bolts, 'cause doing all 8 like this can take some time.
I agree. Personally, I prefer Mopar Heater Control Solvent. It was made for heat risers, I think, but it'll work on anything rusty. Heat was mentioned, and that can help. I'd also suggest an impact gun w/ 6pt impact socket, but like the quoted post, work the nut gradually back and forth carefully. Be patient. It is usually worth trying to save the factory u-bolts, because aftermarket bolts are not flattened at the u-bend and are not friendly to the housing tube like the oem bolts.
 
The U bolt nuts are a severe locknut. After you get 2 or 3 nuts off you will just go buy new U bolts. AMK has the correct flattened U bolts and those tall lock nuts.
 
Again, AMK has the correct flattened crosshatch bolts in 2 different lengths and the correct tall lock nuts. AMK has a big paper catalog for like $20.00 or $25.00. Get online, order the bolts and nuts and one of their catalogs, It has all of the neat OE bolts and nuts and other assorted for GM, Ford, and Mopar.. It is well worth the money!
 
Screw that.
I reuse them all the time. Stuff over here doesn't rust and break when you work on it.

There you go. Even though they are supposed to be one time use, I agree with you. As long as they break loose easily, I'll reuse them too. I coat the threads with RTV when I go back. They won't rust up then.
 
Again, AMK has the correct flattened crosshatch bolts in 2 different lengths and the correct tall lock nuts. AMK has a big paper catalog for like $20.00 or $25.00. Get online, order the bolts and nuts and one of their catalogs, It has all of the neat OE bolts and nuts and other assorted for GM, Ford, and Mopar.. It is well worth the money!

There's really no "correct" on this. I've torn down a LOT of cars and seen both types of U bolts on the same model.

I would be curious to see what @Oldmanmopar has seen on this. That guy has parted out a bunch of cars. I'm sure he'd have some good input.
 
the u-bolts aren't supposed to be tightened so they damage axle tubes. the highest I have seen for late models is like 80 foot-lbs
locktite also serves as an anti-seize by sealing the threads to prevent corrosion
 
the u-bolts aren't supposed to be tightened so they damage axle tubes. the highest I have seen for late models is like 80 foot-lbs
locktite also serves as an anti-seize by sealing the threads to prevent corrosion
Dang, that’s high, even though the books says 45 ft lbs.

BA21470D-EA39-4740-A18A-593B44C1A625.jpeg
 
think the f150's, three leaf pack is what I was referring to.
too tight on the A bodies does more harm than good.
 
Calvert and I like 65 foot pounds. I found dumping the clutch with slicks was better with more than 45
 
Liquid Wrench did the best in this guy's test, with acetone/ATF in 2nd. Kroil did the WORST. FYI-



Here's part 2. In this one, deep creep (sea foam) did the best, with CRC very close behind.

 
I dont think iv ever gotten a u bolt off without breaking it off. I like Kroil and pb blaster but I havent bought a can of pb blaster in years kroil is my go to because I get it for free. For ubolts I'd just cut them off i wouldn't waste my free kroil on it lol.
 
Liquid Wrench did the best in this guy's test, with acetone/ATF in 2nd. Kroil did the WORST. FYI-



Here's part 2. In this one, deep creep (sea foam) did the best, with CRC very close behind.


I really like that guy I really enjoy his tests.
 
Going to remove the rear end from the '65 Formula S in order to tip it on its side and paint the bottom floorboard. I hear PB Blaster is good (don't know if it's sold in stores around here). Any other recommendations? Thank you.

Any the above. PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or Kroil. Then time, and patience. Brush the exposed threads with a small wire brush first. Allow the penetrant to soak for a day. When you put your socket on ti, try tightening first but only 1/16 of a turn. Then loosen but do not try to remove all at once if it gets so hard to turn it feels like it will break. Work the nut back and forth until it comes off easily.

Some folks just cut and replace all the U bolts, 'cause doing all 8 like this can take some time.

This is the ticket right here, no matter what lube you use.
I use a drill with about a 3 inch round wire brush to clean the threads before removing the nuts.
Note that I just did three cars of U bolts and they all came off easy with cleaned threads.
Didn't break or trash threads on any of them.
 
In that video above, he is using Fluid Film in the wrong application, that's why it does not work well. It's not made for use as a penetrating oil, even though it says that as one of the uses on the label. It's best use is for coating parts for storage so they will not rust. For that, it is badass. I like that guy's tests, too. Look how well the Sea Foam does. I've been tellin yall that stuff is the shizzle.
 
Acetone & tranny fluid gets my vote...What Brian6pack said & others....It works very well. And yes New U Bolts. Cheap insurance
 
In that video above, he is using Fluid Film in the wrong application, that's why it does not work well. It's not made for use as a penetrating oil, even though it says that as one of the uses on the label. It's best use is for coating parts for storage so they will not rust. For that, it is badass. I like that guy's tests, too. Look how well the Sea Foam does. I've been tellin yall that stuff is the shizzle.
Fluid film if you arent in a hurry.
But a little heat improves capillary action greatly. I always keep a can around.
 
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