I grounded coil positive to block?

-

NHscamp

Go big or go home!
Joined
Feb 25, 2015
Messages
61
Reaction score
6
Location
Newhampshire
I finally just got my 408 stroker running and was finishing up the timing when I grounded the positive terminal of the coil accidentally when I was trying to tighten the bolt on the distributor. Now it will not even turn over? I looked at the fuses and they seem to be OK.It does have the MSD box and distributor could I have done something to the box?
Thank you Christopher
 
If it won't turn over there is something else wrong.

How long was the short
 
Stock systems typically have coil positive going to ballast resister, then to ignition switch. So shorting the coil plus would go through the ignition switch to a voltage source.
The fusable link looks to be the main feed to the ignition switch, do your headlights work?
 
If it wont turn over on the key then check for voltage at the starter relay to start. Usually yellow to turn the relay on. it is a simple relay that switches voltage from the battery to the starter. the relay needs a ground, and + voltage through the ignition switch to the starter relay coil "usually yellow"to energize it. The ground can either come from the case itself or a neutral start safety switch device.

And once again, no make/model or year for what you need help with! Everyone is not a physic!
 
It is a 1971 scamp with an MSD ignition Newly installed . The short was long enough to kill the engine Then the starter it would not activate any more? It does have the original ballast resistor in place as well as the Mopar electronica box. No wiring lights pretty much the originalElectrical system no cuts or hacks.
 
I apologize for the lack of information I have been on this site a few years but I ask few questions because I try to do my homework and read everything I can on here And I must say it’s an absolute wealth of information.
 
You can not have both the MSD and Factory Electronic ignition box! Take a deep breath and give more info!
 
Pictures are worth a thousand words!
 
You can not have both the MSD and Factory Electronic ignition box! Take a deep breath and give more info
Sure you can if you didn't remove the old parts and thay are just mounted.

If it was shorted long enough to kill the engine my bet is the fusable link.

Do the headlights work?
 
I apologize for the lack of information I have been on this site a few years but I ask few questions because I try to do my homework and read everything I can on here And I must say it’s an absolute wealth of information.

It's ok. We have it now at least. That's one of my pet peaves is no info. But I know how easy it is to write out a post thinking in your mind YOU know what YOU have and you're thinkin it the whole time.....but don't write it down. I'm guilty of it in conversation.....just taking for granted everybody knows what I'm talkin about. I mean seriously.....shouldn't they? LOL
 
I don't get this. If the OP is running an MSD CDI box, I'm not sure how grounding the coil would cause all this mess. The coil+ on an MSD 6 or other CD box is not connected into the normal power feed like it is originally.

In any case you need to troubleshoot each problem "on it's own" and do some actual troubleshooting, not guess

The fuse link is not open if you have power "in the car" such as dome, headlights.

So start with the feeds into the engine bay. There are only 3 to worry about

1....Ignition run, or IGN1 comes from the key "run" contact, and feeds some things in the car such as cluster power, and goes through the bulkhead originally to the ballast. This should now be connected to your MSD "small red." So with the key in run you should have power there This is often dark blue, refer to your shop manual, not all years

2....Ignition "bypass" or IGN2 bypasses the ignition resistor and is the only ignition power during cranking. With the key twisted to "start" the MSD "small red" should also be hot. IGN1, above, goes dead in this function

3...The normally yellow "start" wire. This comes off the key, is hot ONLY in "start" and goes through the bulkhead to one of the two small flag connectors on the starter relay. Check with a light or meter, this should be "hot" with the key held in "start."

From there, power goes through the starter relay coil, (magnet) and "comes out" on the remaining small flag connector. From there, it is grounded in park or neutral by the neutral safety switch, or if stick car, is grounded by the clutch safety switch.

You need a service manual and or wiring diagram if you don't have one. I've posted this a xillion times. Go to MyMopar and download them for free.
 
Last edited:
Pic of a good Fusible link, blue wire with tag, drivers side firewall, see if its burnt or shorted out, if it is? It did its job.
20200325_000507.jpg
 
HEADLIGHTS? Maybe he doesn’t understand the question? He is probably corn fused. Ofcourse I have headlights, their right in front of the car on each side of the grill. Ooohhh now I gotcha ya, do they work, I dunno cause I’ve never tried them Lol. Kim
 
It is a 1971 scamp with an MSD ignition Newly installed . The short was long enough to kill the engine Then the starter it would not activate any more? It does have the original ballast resistor in place as well as the Mopar electronica box. No wiring lights pretty much the originalElectrical system no cuts or hacks.

If your running an MSD control box , you dont need a ballast resister at all .
 
I finally just got my 408

I little advice to the OP. This board is a two way street. There are lots of great people here, guys and ladies. Some of us are actually trying to help you here. When someone asks a question, you really ought to respond with more information. Nobody is paying any of us for our time here.
 
-
Back
Top