Would like some PST recommendations

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SABLT194

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Hey James,

I'm doing a street build of a 71 Dart Swinger and need some suspension recommendations. This is a street only car but I would like to vastly improve the handling characteristics. Here's some info on the build

1971 Dodge Dart
431 CID Small Block (340 Block)
904 Automatic Trans
8 3/4 rear
Manual Steering
Disks on Front & Rear
Manual Brakes
110#/inch leaf springs lowered 1"
Spring Hangers 1/2" offset in
Stock tabbed LCA's reinforced
Stock style disk brake Upper Control Arms and balljoints

So I'm thinking I'll still need,

Larger Torsion Bars
Front Sway Bar
Rear Sway Bar
Street Shocks

What would you recommend for my project?

Regards,
Steve
 
Your plan is good but add C-body HD tie rod sleeves, poly bushings and frame connectors. No need to go crazy with welding to floor pan. Can even build your own out of bar stock or
Bolt-In Frame Connector Kits
Those are bolt in but I would weld. I went with larger Hellwig sway bars on my B-body.
 
Them Jersey boys will set ya right up. Rome there on line store, give them a call. The only thing I can not point to is a shock for you. 100% street cruiser? Some strip?

If you need bushings, I suggest the Poly Graphite.
Good stuff.
 
Oh, I forgot to mention that I already installed USCT subframe connectors and front & rear torque boxes.
 
no rear sway bar.
Front sway bar. stock or 1.125
T-bars- .91 to 1.03

For general Penna roads - a tire with decent sidewall hieght and multi-condition traction. Great traction in perfect conditions on smooth concrete will mean nothing if you lose it on gravel or pothole or any of the other common conditions...
And no KYB shocks. Street shocks from your local supplier will do better for same reasons. Or go big bucks.

edit: just saw this is in the Sponsers section. Mods - feel free to delete if inappropriate. James from PST. Same - let me know and I'll delete.
 
I like to build my cars in stages as I always seem to be on a budget myself. So anything that I do I do not like to do twice. What I basically means is if I have to take something apart on the suspension in order to get to the part I am replacing and it itself is questionable I replace it.

I do have some questions does your car currently have a front sway bar? If so what diameter is it? Second is the front bushings currently rubber or poly at this time.

Personally I would start with torsion bars and shocks if you currently have a front sway bar and see if your happy with the performance. Torsion bars should be a minimum of 1". We have the 1.03" which are a favorite of many on the forum here. For shocks you have options depending how extreme you want to go. We offer KYB, Bilstien or Viking. KYB is a good economical shock but you will see from a quick search on the forum that one of its cons is that they can be rather stiff. Bilstein is my opinion is the best bang for the buck with the digressive valve it allow for a comfortable ride and gives a nice balance between street and performance . Than there is Viking double adjustable shocks. These shocks are awesome but the take away is the price, but if you are looking for a shock that will be able to sustain various upgrade over time and grow with your build they are a good choice. I like them as you can set them on the soft end of their settings when cruising with the family. But when you want to go out for a cruise on some winding roads you can crank them up and they respond and come alive.

The torsion bars will reduce body roll feeling but the shock will dictate overall ride quality and sway bars will be keep your tires firmly planted.

James
PST
 
I like to build my cars in stages as I always seem to be on a budget myself. So anything that I do I do not like to do twice. What I basically means is if I have to take something apart on the suspension in order to get to the part I am replacing and it itself is questionable I replace it.

I do have some questions does your car currently have a front sway bar? If so what diameter is it? Second is the front bushings currently rubber or poly at this time.

Personally I would start with torsion bars and shocks if you currently have a front sway bar and see if your happy with the performance. Torsion bars should be a minimum of 1". We have the 1.03" which are a favorite of many on the forum here. For shocks you have options depending how extreme you want to go. We offer KYB, Bilstien or Viking. KYB is a good economical shock but you will see from a quick search on the forum that one of its cons is that they can be rather stiff. Bilstein is my opinion is the best bang for the buck with the digressive valve it allow for a comfortable ride and gives a nice balance between street and performance . Than there is Viking double adjustable shocks. These shocks are awesome but the take away is the price, but if you are looking for a shock that will be able to sustain various upgrade over time and grow with your build they are a good choice. I like them as you can set them on the soft end of their settings when cruising with the family. But when you want to go out for a cruise on some winding roads you can crank them up and they respond and come alive.

The torsion bars will reduce body roll feeling but the shock will dictate overall ride quality and sway bars will be keep your tires firmly planted.

James
PST
 
Thanks James,

Can't call this a budget build at this point. It's a full rotisserie resto project. This was a 318 car and has no sway bar. Front suspension is being converted to disks as part of the project. Toothpick rear is gone with an 8 3/4 replacing it. Fresh 340car leaf springs with 110# spring rate (lowered 1")

Subframe & Torque Box

Regards,
Steve




subframe connectors.jpg
 
Yep- But I have some LCA's that have tabs for a sway bar
Looks like the only 71 Dart Swinger sway bars from PST are 7/8" rear and 1 1/8" front. That with 1.03" torsion bars, and a set of Bilstiens should do it. Right now I was planning on running rubber bushings.

Will that rear sway bar fit with my springs moved in 1/2"?????
 
For primarily street use and wanting comfort rubber is ideal. I would say what you have outlined parts wise will attain the handling you want. You may have a clearance issues on the rear as the bar clamps to the diff and the end links line up with the frame rails. Please see the instructions on our website under the documents tab.

Thanks
James From
PST
 
For primarily street use and wanting comfort rubber is ideal. I would say what you have outlined parts wise will attain the handling you want. You may have a clearance issues on the rear as the bar clamps to the diff and the end links line up with the frame rails. Please see the instructions on our website under the documents tab.

Thanks
James From
PST
Copy That James.
I'll look on the site. I can fab just about anything to move the endlinks around a bit to clear things.

Regards,
Steve
 
Not a handling issue but look into a 73 and newer k-member to take advantage of spool type motor mounts. Might even find the bigger disc brake caliper mounts for 11.75 rotors. Pin style are best.
 
For primarily street use and wanting comfort rubber is ideal. I would say what you have outlined parts wise will attain the handling you want. You may have a clearance issues on the rear as the bar clamps to the diff and the end links line up with the frame rails. Please see the instructions on our website under the documents tab.

Thanks
James From
PST
...........................

I used PST rubber on my 74. I'm very happy with everything. Old Man Mopar will be happy to know that you recommend rubber also.
 
OK James,

Order was placed online this AM. I added FABO member name to the comments. Gim'ee that FABO discount please.

Regards,
Steve
 
For primarily street use and wanting comfort rubber is ideal. I would say what you have outlined parts wise will attain the handling you want. You may have a clearance issues on the rear as the bar clamps to the diff and the end links line up with the frame rails. Please see the instructions on our website under the documents tab.

Thanks
James From
PST
James,
Do you have any brackets that bolt to the stock location on the K member to mount the front 1 1/8 urethane bushings? Something like this??

upload_2020-3-30_6-4-2.png
 
The one in our kit is a flat mounting tab that attaches to the K member. The instructions can be found on website under the documents tab for each vehicle specific sway bar.

Thanks
James From
PST
 
Oh, I forgot to mention that I already installed USCT subframe connectors and front & rear torque boxes.
Dumb Q...do you need to remove carpet etc inside to keep from burning when subframe connectors are welded in?
 
If you are using the USCT than you will need to remove the interior prior to welding in.

Thanks
James From
PST
 
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