Looking for advice on paint repair

-
DusterDaddy

DusterDaddy

sledgehammer mechanic
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2011
Messages
2,567
Reaction score
1,786
Location
Holmdel, NJ
Looking for some advice and guidance to repair these two bruises my son inflicted on the car in a spin out that caused him and the car to come to rest up against an old fence.
The car was painted with PPG Omni about 5 years ago and kept garaged and covered when not in use. I have the base coat that was used and it’s still good.
I’m going to do the repairs myself since the shop that did the paint is offline due to the covid-19 shutdown.
I’d appreciate it if someone will tell me how to go about it.

6B77296C-A679-4568-8837-AFB9E59881CF.jpeg


3DBB7A88-CB01-4930-B8B0-2E7BA3B24777.png


17166EC4-70F6-4E9F-B998-F8F59A27F63C.png


4883CE12-418B-4F84-8443-CA7FB696C875.jpeg
 
Thats the last time he borrows dad's car. :lol:

Base and clear? That might be tough to make invisible. I'd wet sand with 400 and touch up with a small brush, wet sand again. Buff out.
 
Demonic said:
Thats the last time he borrows dad's car. :lol:

Base and clear? That might be tough to make invisible. I'd wet sand with 400 and touch up with a small brush, wet sand again. Buff out.
Click to expand...
That's what I'm thinking too but I'm going to need to clear the spot near the headlight somehow...
 
Honestly if you have never painted before, buff and if you are not happy with the results, wait and have the shop touch up the car.
You most likely will make a more expensive repair for the shop to do if you start messing with paint.
 
If I did post #2 I would use 1000 Grit. I lean more to post #4. If you lived near me I would help you out. Do you know anyone that may help locally that you know?
 
Kendog 170 said:
If I did post #2 I would use 1000 Grit. I lean more to post #4. If you lived near me I would help you out. Do you know anyone that may help locally that you know?
Click to expand...
Compound on the back fender may work. I was going to tape the front spot off about 1/8" past the damage and sand with 1000 then apply base with a nail polish brush, sand again with 1000 the brush on the same clear then sand and polish. I certainly wont make the bruise larger. On the other hand, the paint shop owes me some other touch ups so why mess with it? It drives me nuts that its damaged...
 
Be thankful that's all that happened. My son has ruined three cars . I won't let him near mine. Sounds like it could have been worse.
 
DusterDaddy said:
Compound on the back fender may work. I was going to tape the front spot off about 1/8" past the damage and sand with 1000 then apply base with a nail polish brush, sand again with 1000 the brush on the same clear then sand and polish. I certainly wont make the bruise larger. On the other hand, the paint shop owes me some other touch ups so why mess with it? It drives me nuts that its damaged...
Click to expand...
Leave it alone, the base coat will dry flat.
 
DusterDaddy said:
Looking for some advice and guidance to repair these two bruises my son inflicted on the car in a spin out that caused him and the car to come to rest up against an old fence.
The car was painted with PPG Omni about 5 years ago and kept garaged and covered when not in use. I have the base coat that was used and it’s still good.
I’m going to do the repairs myself since the shop that did the paint is offline due to the covid-19 shutdown.
I’d appreciate it if someone will tell me how to go about it.

View attachment 1715493619

View attachment 1715493621

View attachment 1715493622

View attachment 1715493623
Click to expand...

You have some options.

I would stay away from a small brush. Brush strokes will be noticeable, even after wet sanding. A nail polish brush may work if you lay enough paint down to sand smooth and feather in the edges. But I've never tried that. Watch out for runs.
Is you car a factory color? If so, there are companies that make factory touch up colors in aerosol cans. You said you still have paint, there are shops that can take your paint and pressurized it into a spray can. Or, use a small touch up HVLP gun with 1.0 tip on your compressor, 30-40 PSI.
Need to know if the damage in pics is gouges in your paint down to the substrate, or is it transfer from the fence post?
If it's transfer, wet sand with 800-1000 until transfer color is gone and paint color is back to original. Go light and slow, check often, the less removal of material the better. You will see the flat paint in contrast to the clear coated area around it. If its deep gouges, you'll need to wet sand with 400 until you have removed the gouges, then feather with 800 to the edge of your tape line.
Now, mask and tape the car around the area WAY past what you think is needed. You will have a bunch of over spray. Keep the nozzle back about 14"-16" and just dust the area with 3 or 4 wrist strokes. Just let the paint fall onto its target. Come back in an hour and repeat. Do these light coats 4 or 5 times and then peel back your tape line to see how its blending. With multiple light coats you should be able to catch it before it leaves a raised line along the tape edge. If you see there is room for more, dust it again a couple of times. This will take most of the day, be patient. Have a fan moving air above the painted area, to keep anything from settling on it while wet.
If you use color match aerosol, it may already have clear coat mixed in. If not you'll need to repeat with clear. Go a bit closer and do 3 coats that are wetter than the paint coats were.
If you do it yourself, post some pics of the process.
 
Last edited:
DusterDaddy said:
Looking for some advice and guidance to repair these two bruises my son inflicted on the car in a spin out that caused him and the car to come to rest up against an old fence.
The car was painted with PPG Omni about 5 years ago and kept garaged and covered when not in use. I have the base coat that was used and it’s still good.
I’m going to do the repairs myself since the shop that did the paint is offline due to the covid-19 shutdown.
I’d appreciate it if someone will tell me how to go about it.

View attachment 1715493619

View attachment 1715493621

View attachment 1715493622

View attachment 1715493623
Click to expand...


Yea, I always blame my son too. :lol:
 
Personally I'd go at it in the least aggressive manor and then work my way up. If you go at it as aggressive as some suggest, you'll probably wind up just making it worse with your first try and then you're screwed.

First thing I'd do is just hit both areas with wax and buff out by hand and see what you have. That'll clean both areas more than you think. The damage above the wheel should be the easiest to fix. It's right below the body line so I would hit it with a rubbing compound and a buffer while keeping the buffer straight up and down and off of that body line. If that doesn't get it out, then wet sand with 2000 grit, making sure not to sand on the body line itself. Then buff out and see what you have. If it's not all the way out, you can get more aggressive with your grits but you're getting into dangerous territory the more you sand and buff, especially that close to the body line.

The one at the front edge of the front fender is going to be a lot tougher. I can't tell if that's the primer showing or paint transfer. If it's paint transfer, I'd use a clay bar and get the paint off and then hit it by hand with a rubbing compound. If you stick a buffer on there, it's just going to burn through the paint since you're right on top of the body line. You can do wonders with touch up paint, some 2000 grit and a buffer on flat panels but if you try to touch it up, sand and then buff, you're basically guaranteed to burn through on that front corner.

If rubbing compound brings that lighter area back to life and you're just stuck with chips down to the primer....I would touch it up with a brush and then dab a microfiber in acetone and sweep across it and see if I can flatten the touch up in place and clean up any touch up that gets outside of the chips. It may take a few tries to get right. If it looks terrible, just clean the chips back out with acetone and then try again. Only do this if you're sure that the clear is still there all around the chips. If clear is not there then the acetone will affect the base coat.
 
Last edited:
Dab in the small white spots with with the Basecoat Red Color using a tore off paper match stick from a book of matches as a paint brush.
Let dry over night.

Then hand rub all areas with auto body Rubbing Compound to polish up the dead spots back to a shine in the damaged areas.
This will be about a 90 % improvement over what you have now.

Live with whatever is left of the damage for now (this is called Battle Scars / Bragging Rights / What Ever, it is part of the history of the car) until you can get it into the Body Shop to do the final touch ups.

Auto Body and Painting is a highly skilled craft that takes years of experience to get it right. Nice car you have there, if you want it to look great take it to the pros. Nothing worse that a miss matched poorly blended spot in repair, growing way larger that the original damage in the first place.
 
George Jets said:
Dab in the small white spots with with the Basecoat Red Color using a tore off paper match stick from a book of matches as a paint brush.
Let dry over night.

Then hand rub all areas with auto body Rubbing Compound to polish up the dead spots back to a shine in the damaged areas.
This will be about a 90 % improvement over what you have now.

Live with whatever is left of the damage for now (this is called Battle Scars / Bragging Rights / What Ever, it is part of the history of the car) until you can get it into the Body Shop to do the final touch ups.

Auto Body and Painting is a highly skilled craft that takes years of experience to get it right. Nice car you have there, if you want it to look great take it to the pros. Nothing worse that a miss matched poorly blended spot in repair, growing way larger that the original damage in the first place.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the great advice. I will use the torn end of the match stick to get color on the showing primer on the spot up front and use the compound the next day. I also got some red pigmented wax to shine up the spots (the one on the rear wheel lip cleaned up pretty good with compound) until the shop can get the car in.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top