Nitrous plumbing A1A...??..

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Got the panels and threshold back on over the new fused 10 gauge wire..
Got the wires ran and tucked away under the driver's fender for the nitrous fuel pump and ground wire for the nitrous relay through the low pressure switch..
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89on35s said:
Too bad I'm not closer! Wiring is kinda my thing!

Cley
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I'm okay it's just at the end of the day I get a little burnt...
In the end it makes my laughing louder when somebody says just throw a hundred shot on it...
"I can put nitrous on it and do blah blah blah..."
I say to those people put up or shut up LOL... By far it ain't as easy as just saying it..
 
  • It is easy. That is what makes nitrous so awesome. I may just have a addiction to it though. I may need to be admitted. Lol.

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6PKRTSE said:
  • It is easy. That is what makes nitrous so awesome. I may just have a addiction to it though. I may need to be admitted. Lol.
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So it was really easy for you to install all the wiring and brackets and stuff like that? I'm not saying it's like physically taxing me or anything like that but I believe it's a bit more intricate than people think..
 
j par said:
Also I'm sure once it's fully installed it's push the button and have fun LOL..
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Yes, it does take time. I have mine both on timers and a four stage progessive contollers from Speedwire to bank the systems.

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What you guys are doing is ok, its progress, I would call it overkill personally......as I said before I didn't retard much so didn't need retard boxes although I could've added one to the MSD system I ran as many could today. From then on a single 4 system is just 1 extra fuel pump (not 100% necessary), 1 extra line/ regulator/guage for fuel, 1 micro switch for WOT, 1 main arming switch and thats it. If you run your N20 a bit rich on the fuel you don't even need the retard box unless your on the edge with CR and run an early intake closing cam on pump swill.

A bit like running 9's back in the day with an all iron 440 with 906's and a .750" roller cam...today its 500+ci, superior ally heads and the difference isn't worlds apart in most cases.....just how I see it being an old'un.:)
 
Now that it's morning and I've had coffee I can explain these wires LOL...
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l have 8 wire's coming in from the firewall, 2 from the shifter, and 1 power wire coming from the back which connects to the small bolt on the yellow connectors to power everything...
From there every wire you see coming off the yellow connectors is a fused wire as well as that main wire coming in being fused back at the cutoff switch in the trunk..
Also the switch Bank has four lights that I riveted the grounds together to a crimp fitting to create a common ground for them.all..
The first switch will get a fused power source from the power block and the one wire coming through the driver side for the fuel pump.
The other wire coming through the driver side will be the ground wire (blue) for the relay (at the top of the picture you can see the relay wires and it has a fused power link to white) which I ran through the low pressure switch and grounded with the fuel pump...
The second switch (all coming from right to left) will be the arming switch which will get a small 5 amp fuse as all the wires to be on that are very small and just need 12 volts not any high amperage because ultimately it will be the trigger wire yellow... From that second switch I'll wire the shifter trigger to one of the wires coming through the firewall from the full throttle switch and then the other full throttle switch wire will go to the yellow trigger wire on the relay completing that circuit... (Ultimately when I put in the retard system I will connect the trigger wire after the shifter switch as it just needs a low voltage signal as well..)
The third switch I'm powering up with no fuse for now a(to keep power out of the circuit so nothing bad happens) leaving wires coming from it to ultimately run a bottle heater...
I removed the last switch and put the purge button and it will receive fused power and go out to The Purge on positive and The Purge negative will just be grounded inside the firewall along with the common nitrous solenoid grounds...
And finally the black wire on the relay to the power wire for the nitrous solenoids...
 
Make sure and draw yourself a schematic and keep it updated as your system evolves. Can't tell you how many times I've pulled mine out to refresh my memory, even keep a pic of it on my phone.

Grant
 
weedburner said:
Make sure and draw yourself a schematic and keep it updated as your system evolves. Can't tell you how many times I've pulled mine out to refresh my memory, even keep a pic of it on my phone.

Grant
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NOW YOU TELL ME! LOL...
Do you mean like buy a spool of black wire and completely rewiring everything underneath my dash? Thank goodness for the little blue pieces of tape that I wrote things on everywhere under their LOL I'm doing the same with this everything is got a piece of blue tape labelled with its fuse amperage...
Lord knows there's no rhyme or reason to any of the wire coloring LOL..
 
Funny thing is I lost a bunch of my pictures about 2 and 1/2 years ago and was able to come back to this forum in my archives and dig a bunch of pictures I had lost back out...
Deep in the throes..
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SUCCESS!!!
Nitrous, fuel, and purge solenoids functional!!..
I blipped the fuel pump on for a sec and made sure it has power but I couldn't run it because there's no fuel in the system..
I jumped the low pressure switch which is the ground for the relay. I turned on the arming switch and had my wife hit the button on the shifter. And then by hand clicked the full throttle switch and both solenoids clicked... The purge solenoid was just a matter of hitting the button..
I did have an initial set back as I turn the power on nothing happened!???.. I had set my wife back into the house and said I'm going to have to check things out so I started at the beginning and bingo! I didn't put a fuse in the main feed line back by the cut off switch... LOL...
As @Cope suggested with my very thin wires for my shifter switch and actually the full throttle switch I went ahead and used a 5 amp fuse to power that up to switch on the relay.. tomorrow I'll start on the MSD timing retard mechanism and tap into that wire as well for the MSD triggering.. I'm pretty sure it just needs to see 12 volts and no real amperage...
 
Well today just seems like a slow start like most days out here lately and getting the mess cleaned up. So now I think I'm going to pick a spot for the start step...
For now the arming switches and such turned out pretty well. The four bank of switches from Summit fit perfect in the stereo hole.. the two switches one on either side of the four switch bank are just dummies in there for now that could run something later if need be, but mostly just so I don't have two holes in my dash right there LOL..
The first one from left to right is the fuel pump switch then the arming switch then the switch for hopefully one day a warming blanket for the nitrous bottle which I've got rigged up but just have no fuse in the fused wire and nothing connected to the other end. And then of course the last one I have the purge button..
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j par said:
Well today just seems like a slow start like most days out here lately and getting the mess cleaned up. So now I think I'm going to pick a spot for the start step...
For now the arming switches and such turned out pretty well. The four bank of switches from Summit fit perfect in the stereo hole.. the two switches one on either side of the four switch bank are just dummies in there for now that could run something later if need be, but mostly just so I don't have two holes in my dash right there LOL..
The first one from left to right is the fuel pump switch then the arming switch then the switch for hopefully one day a warming blanket for the nitrous bottle which I've got rigged up but just have no fuse in the fused wire and nothing connected to the other end. And then of course the last one I have the purge button..
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One thing I’ve learned playing with start retards over the years is to find out how much you have to retard to get it to not kick back, add 2 degrees more and you’re golden.

I’ve seen guys pull too much out and they start really hard when hot with too much retard. They crank more than I like.
 
yellow rose said:
One thing I’ve learned playing with start retards over the years is to find out how much you have to retard to get it to not kick back, add 2 degrees more and you’re golden.

I’ve seen guys pull too much out and they start really hard when hot with too much retard. They crank more than I like.
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It's likely that I will never use the start retard part but mainly just the timing retard triggered by the nitrous relay trigger. I'll put it in line behind my hand trigger on the shifter grip but before the full throttle trigger. That way when I want to test it I can just have my wife hit the trigger while I have my timing light on it...
 
Next time i would put all fuses, relays and components on one board.

I know my car would be better if i had done it.

Im so deep in wiring right now its almost all i think about.

It takes a crazy amout of wire but man its cool when its done.

I already have everything electrical in tha passenger foot well but how cool would it be to add all the fuses, relays and have it all plug in mounted to a "board" that just removes with 3 or 4 fasteners. ( no more fuses anywhere but on the board.)

Brrdtp, brrdt. (Dewait rattle gun noise) Lets check all these fuses and connections on the bench.

:)
 
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Cope said:
Next time i would put all fuses, relays and components on one board.

I know my car would be better if i had done it.

Im so deep in wiring right now its almost all i think about.

It takes a crazy amout of wire but man its cool when its done.
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it's funny you say that I was just talking to weedburner today and he was saying the same thing..
I now I only have to unplug the MSD box distributor block and plug it into the start step. Then 4 wires a positive, a negative, the yellow wire to the white wire which is waiting with a open connector and then the pink wire just after the shifter trigger.
Then I just need to put fuel in the fuel side system and set the pressure..
I need to get back to work and make some money so I can buy a bottle and a regulator. I already have the bottle Mount and the feed line routed to the backseat..
 
I hear that brother, we all need to go back to work. 4 years with my women our first fight is on right now about the dang dog off all things......
 
Cope said:
I hear that brother, we all need to go back to work. 4 years with my women our first fight is on right now about the dang dog off all things......
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If you're like most people right now you're a little cooped up on top of each other. And like everybody else you take it out on the people you're closest to.... My wife and I try to keep that in mind..
 
Well yesterday I mounted the step start box and today I got the 5 wires connected. I just used jump in connectors for the positive, negative, and signal wire. A couple plug-in connectors from the MSD White to the MSD start step yellow. Unplugged the MSD box from the distributor and plug the distributor into the start step plug..
Both start step dials are on 0. so now the next time I start the car I believe I have to reset the timing... The instructions say that it retards it 4 degrees...
If this works as I think it should I should be able to warm the car up reset the timing arm the nitrous power and set the dial for say 3 degrees retard and have my wife hit the red button on the shifter and that should send 12 volts to the retard and I should see a instant 3 degree drop on my timing. I also want to do that at idle and bring it all the way up and bring it back down while it's depressed to see if it follows the curve....
 
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