My 360 build.

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The block was not fresh bored. A low mile short block I am rebuilding. Bores super smooth with not enough cross hatch to break the rings in.

Cley
 
The block was not fresh bored. A low mile short block I am rebuilding. Bores super smooth with not enough cross hatch to break the rings in.

Cley


If there any crosshatch there, don't hone it.

Clean the bores until a white lint free cloth doesn't pick up any more black crap. I use ATF on the cloth and clean until the cloth is clean.

When installing the Pistons and rings, use a very small coating of assembly lube (not moly cam lube or something like that...it needs to be a forums latest assembly lube) just on the skirts ONLY. That's all. Nothing on the rings. And don't put anything on the bores after wiping the ATF off.

If you don't have an assembly lube, use engine oil. Again, very little needs to be used. It doesn't need to be dripping off the skirts. Just a little lube.

Then put it together.

By the time it's assembled and ready to fire, the rings will be 95% seated and within a minute or so of running, the rings will be seated.

That's all you need to do.
 
The bores were clean as a whistle when I put it together. Assembled it with STP as recommended in the krazykuda how to on this site. I was really hoping someone would say it would be ok! Dang, I dont know what to do!

Cley
 
The bores were clean as a whistle when I put it together. Assembled it with STP as recommended in the krazykuda how to on this site. I was really hoping someone would say it would be ok! Dang, I dont know what to do!

Cley

I never oil rings. With anything. Let alone STP. It is essentially plastic.
 
20200314_184612.jpg

These rings that came with the KB107s

Cley
 
I am going to play it safe and disassemble it clean it all up again and give it a good honing. I can just barely see the old cross hatch marks. I got lots if time now that the world is shut down!
Since it's together I broke out my new deck bridge and measured the pistons at a consistent. 020 down in the hole. In an effort to maximize my available compression I guess I'll get .027 thick Cometic gaskets but I don't know how to choose the bore size of the gasket. My brain says it should be as small as possible as long as it's bigger than the 4.030 block bore size. Is that correct?

Cley
 
moly tops
diy
Id use a medium rigid one and see if the bores are round and straight
if the cyl hones then hit with a few strokes with a fine bottle brush

if there are areas that don't hone then we need some good pics
 
Since it's together I broke out my new deck bridge and measured the pistons at a consistent. 020 down in the hole. In an effort to maximize my available compression I guess I'll get .027 thick Cometic gaskets but I don't know how to choose the bore size of the gasket. My brain says it should be as small as possible as long as it's bigger than the 4.030 block bore size. Is that correct?

Cley
Also should I get the MLS gaskets specifically for the Edelbrock heads since my Speedmaster heads are Edelbrock clones?

Cley
 
with mls both the block and the head need to a mls finish
essentialy running a sharp mill at slow feed or ground
use the Mr gasket or what works to set your quench down to .030-.040
 
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i don't think this is a max effort drag car that needs every last point of compression. i don't think a .039 gasket will be any slower then a .027 gasket. there will be zero performance difference between the two.
 
so bottom line is that if your pistons are only down .020 or .030 use the Mr Gaket
otherwise it does not matter much
you do not need the expense and PITA of the cometics
would NOT run them with stock decks on either the heads or block
 
Next question! Pretty sure I know the answer. I picked up my Felpro 90109 intake gaskets which match the ports on my Speedmaster heads perfectly. I mount them up to my intake which has never been ground on and there is a big mismatch. I am thinking I need to match the intake to the gasket which will then match the cylinder head.
Any comments? Tips or tricks?

Cley
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