Budget Rocker choice

If you don't mind, I have a question for you. You may or may not have an answer that I can comprehend but here's my set up. Block was checked for square and the j heads were shaved to 62 cc to get 10.2 comp. Pocket ported and 2.02s installed. Intake was cut to align ports etc. The machinist is a well known old salt that built race motors for years. I stuck the racer brown ssh 44 .510 lift 108cl 292 dur. hydraulic cam in it with johnson lifters. Comp pro 1.5 rollers. So I didn't have to shim much left or right to center them on the tips as they aligned well. Kept the adjuster 1-2 threads showing under and got pushrods to fit. Installed them .015 preload and blackened the valve tips. Was towards the exhaust slightly. Installed .010 shims under the shafts and then they rolled at center after a few revolutions. The mark of the roller was spot on and about .025 was the thickness of the line that the roller left. It was no where near traveling from the intake to exhaust side. Centered and about .025 roll on the tip. This may not be corrected by the way you explained so what would be my goal to correct geometry? I imagine a large solid cam would be way worse but I don't actually think this part has to do with the correct geometry but I am going to build more like it and the knowledge is appreciated.
My pleasure MerlinsMopar!

This is a little odd that shimming the shafts moved the pattern back toward the intake manifold side of the valve tip. It should have been the opposite. I really can't say where things are, or where they are supposed to be, without having some numbers/specs from your combination.

I can say that if your Comp rockers are using the cup style adjusters, then you have the adjuster turned out way too far. There shouldn't be any threads showing, and should only be turned down 1 to 1-1/2 turns from seated in the rocker body.

Actually, geometry is usually worse with smaller cams than larger ones.