30 cubic inches isn't going to change much. When we get up over 500 inches start to change, but not as much as you would think. I have found on the 572 inch stuff i can get away with about 15 - 20 degrees of more duration at .050. But it depends on whether it is auto or manual. Manual we can get away with more, but with auto it depends on the automatic. Now with the newer overdrive trans and lock up converters we can get away with it like a manual. But that is not usually available for Mopar. Now most of the engines over 525 I have built have been race motors so we were looking at power levels at the end of the quarter mile and how much torque off the starting line. More duration at .050 less torque on the bottom, higher operation range.
With most street use converters are usually rated at under 3000 rpm. On engines under 500 inches I do not like more than 230 - 235 degrees at .050 with a installed centerline of 108 on a 110 ground cam with a carburetor. Fuel injection is different because of a wider lobe center.
Like I asked in the thread before there is a lot more info that would be needed to come up with the proper combination. I usually set down and get everything else figured out and then I try and find the cam I need or have one ground for a particular combination. For instance my street car is a 72 Challenger I have had since 78. When I rebuilt the car I stroked the motor to 416 inches with a extremely light rotating assy. I rebuilt the stock converter and figured out tire and gear and what RPM that i wanted to go down the freeway. I had a solid roller cam ground to my spec. On the chassis dyno it made 410 hp and 485 ft pounds of torque. It idles at 850 at the stop light and is very drivable on the road. Now it peek HP at 5800 and torque at 4500. For street car it will spin the tires in any gear (P295R50 -16) at anytime I want. But is a street car that weighs 3600 lbs. When cars are that heavy you need torque to move them.
The reason I was commenting is I see people all the time spend a lot of money on a engine or something else and find it doesn't perform any better than it did if they had done something simple. As I was reading your thread you were concentrating on the cam, but there is a lot of other things that need to be looked at before deciding on a camshaft. The guys selling the cams should have been asking the same questions that I am.
As far as Pennzoil, if you have ever torn apart an engine that has run Pennzoil and one that has run on Castrol or Valvoline VR1 you would see why I do not run Pennzoil. They have the same Zinc issue as everybody else. Pollution controlled engine oils cannot have Zinc in the oil do to it kills the catalytic converters.
