Rocker arm Assemblies Small Block 340

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Raul

Raul

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What is the proper torque for Rocker Arm Assemblies on Aluminum Pro Comp Heads?
 
Thank you guys; I love this forum. Whenever I need info, you guys have all been very helpful. . Here's another pic. I come to find out I had a leak at the back end of this engine, so I'm being pro-active and rather than regret it, I've decided to replace the rear main seal before install of this Stroker I've purchased last year. With that, I wonder what the torque is for the oil pump bolts and the rear main cap bolts. Here's another pic.
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Raul said:
Thank you guys; I love this forum. Whenever I need info, you guys have all been very helpful. . Here's another pic. I come to find out I had a leak at the back end of this engine, so I'm being pro-active and rather than regret it, I've decided to replace the rear main seal before install of this Stroker I've purchased last year. With that, I wonder what the torque is for the oil pump bolts and the rear main cap bolts. Here's another pic.View attachment 1715495742 View attachment 1715495743 View attachment 1715495745
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What rods are you using?
 
Raul said:
Not sure, it's not my build. Bought this one for $5500.00
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If I spent 5500 bucks on a motor, I'd know the name brand of every nut and bolt. Must be nice.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If I spent 5500 bucks on a motor, I'd know the name brand of every nut and bolt. Must be nice.
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I took a chance when I bought this motor and believed the seller....you can't beat the price for a 340/417 Stroker. All new, never run. Had cast iron ported X-Heads. Changed them over to SpeedMaster Pro -Comp Heads...Had a dribble of oil from the back. Thought I'd be pro-active and change the rear main seal before install in the next week. Builder is Dennis Smythe. Purchased from a brother of deceased owner. Hoping it's a good motor.
 
I'm with RRR, for 5500.00 I would ask for all receipts, the name of the machine shop, & who assembled it. You may end up with buyers remorse when you get down the rabbit hole with no printed information. JMHO
 
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what diameter bolt ? 5/16" or 3/8" . with aluminum heads think about being nice to the threads in heads and using studs. 5/16 20 with lube, 3/8 35-40. everyone should have a chart showing diameter and grade torque specs
 
Marcohotrod said:
what diameter bolt ? 5/16" or 3/8" . with aluminum heads think about being nice to the threads in heads and using studs. 5/16 20 with lube, 3/8 35-40. everyone should have a chart showing diameter and grade torque specs
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Thanks, I used 20ft/lbs. Bolt size is 5/16-18
 
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Demonracer said:
I'm with RRR, for 5500.00 I would ask for all receipts, the name of the machine shop, & who assembled it. You may end up with buyers remorse when you get down the rabbit hole with no printed information. JMHO
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You really think $5500.00 is expensive for a complete Stroker built by a well know Machinist that's been in the business of racing engines for over 35 yrs?... I know where it can be skeptical, if one didn't know anything of the purchase, but when I heard who built it, why it was selling, and saw the car it was intended for, and saw that it cost half my modified build of the 340 that was currently in my car, I just had to jump on it. I'll find out in the next few months how this motor behaves, I know there's risk, but for the price and background knowledge of why it was for sale and who built it, it was worth the risk to me. Should be dropping it in, by mid April

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A real engine builder documents the complete build with specs for all clearances, part brands, Rotating component weights. This way he can go back and repair/replace an individual part if it fails or has any problem rather than replacing everything because he didn't take notes.
 
oil pump bolts 35-40 with with lube and mains 85-90 with lube, fel pro say short head bolts/studs 95-100 an longs 105-110 with lube. cam bolt 40. damper 135. flywheel 65. and negative Nancys-lighten up I misplaced my receipt from the quality race engine shop that did my engine work. I could get another copy from them but I do not need it, the info is in my notebook and the fact she runs great
 
On aluminum heads I like to use studs instead of bolts for the rocker gear.
 
justinp61 said:
On aluminum heads I like to use studs instead of bolts for the rocker gear.
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I had to reposition the 90° oil filter adaptor, what might be the torque spec on this? Isn't the bolt hollow for oil flow? I dont want to break the bolt by over tightening and won't have easy access after putting header on thereafter.
 
I think it was no more than 45-50 lb ft. Wait & see if anyone else has the same specs.
 
I have never found a t spec. It is hollow, I broke my first 1. 50 is too high. The old stock bolt has the 4 oil holes inline. The moparperf bolt is stronger - oil holes are staggered. I tighten by experience
 
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