Is this a fair radiator?

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I can’t remember where I read it, may have been an ASE paper or maybe it was some engineering testing, but a friend let me read this paper and it was about how a fan shroud can cause the air to stack up at the radiator when the road speed was high enough, the RPM was high enough and the shape of the shroud
This is exactly what I have been trying to get a cross to folks.

It may be the Corona virus but Yellowrose and I have been agreeing on stuff lately:thumbsup::rolleyes:
 
Funny how I never had a cooling issue with these cars back in the 60's, 70's, but that was original cars, not pieced together, bored out, parts missing, corroded engines, etc!! I have yet to build an old Mopar and address all the issues (post $5) plus a few more and not have a car run at the temp. it should. Yes some engine combos will run otter than others.
 
That is A/C AND CAP combo.
Guess that combo could generate some heat.

Also note the WP impeller is smaller dia and there are fewer vaines and the fan has wider blades. My guess is that are spinning the fan faster with a wider blade moves a **** ton of air. The smaller impeller and fewer vaines seems like it would push less water so maybe that was their way of keeping water flow about the same but increasing airflow.???

I also found it interesting that the majority were underdriven by 5 percent.

Yes! This is important stuff to recognize. This is why you have to pay attention to the entire cooling system, not just the radiator, or just the pulley ratio. Everything taken together.

The "maximum cooling" cars were a .95:1 with an HD water pump. The AC cars were 1.2:1 to 1.4:1 depending on the engine, but they had standard water pumps. Think about what the AC cars have- a big condenser sitting out in front of the radiator. It lowers airflow through the radiator. At speed it's not as big a deal, there's a large volume of air. But at idle or slow speeds when you're depending on the fan, that restriction is a much bigger deal. So, the pulleys are overdriven, the fan turns faster and moves more air, and the water pump is "downgraded" to standard to keep the amount of water moving close to the same.

Just saying overdrive the pulleys isn't a magic bullet. The OP already has a HD water pump. 1:1 on the ratio is more likely what he needs, but he needs to increase the air flow.

I said that. If the fan is within an inch and a half or so, you don’t need it. Some of the aftermarket shrouds are straight junk. The OE’s used them because the fan was too far from the radiator to be effective at idle and low speed.

I can’t remember where I read it, may have been an ASE paper or maybe it was some engineering testing, but a friend let me read this paper and it was about how a fan shroud can cause the air to stack up at the radiator when the road speed was high enough, the RPM was high enough and the shape of the shroud.

IIRC a short, blunt shroud was about useless. It would stack air up very quickly. It never really changed the coolant temp but, it did act like a giant air dam because the air can’t get past the fan and the shroud.

That’s why I get the fan as close to the radiator as I can and skip the shroud. The only real issue without one is getting caught in the fan. I need to fabricate something around the top of the fan for that, but no shroud for me if I can avoid it.

You have to be careful here. Some of what you're saying is true, but then you're taking that and making assumptions that aren't.

Yes, a poorly designed shroud that's too close to the radiator can cause issues when the car is at speed. That's why you see some of the aftermarket shrouds with doors and flaps and things that open up. They're trying to compensate for a poor design, or one that they've compromised due to space limitations.

BUT, fans are more efficient with a shroud. Putting the fan closer to the radiator doesn't fix the problem. When the car isn't moving, the fan is pulling air. What the shroud does is two-fold- it sets the area that the air is being pulled from. So, all the air that the fan is pulling goes across the radiator core. If the fan is too close to the radiator, it will not pull air evenly across the entire core, and you lose efficiency. The other thing is that the fan will bleed air around the sides of the fan, some air goes around the fan, some air is churned up by the fan but not pulled across the core or directly cleanly away from the core. That's what the lip on the shroud does. It ensures that all the air is pulled across the core, it keeps air from bleeding out around the fan blades, and it directs the air away from the radiator and fan. Setting the depth of the fan in the shroud also plays a big part, you need the lip on the shroud in the right spot to keep air from bleeding out and improve efficiency.

So just putting the fan close to the radiator doesn't do all of that. You still lose efficiency. The distance of the fan from the radiator from the factory wasn't too far, it was to maximize the efficiency of the fan. Sure, some other models have really deep shrouds because the engine compartment was so large (like C-bodies), but A-bodies don't have that issue.

Aerodynamics and air flow are complicated subjects, and you can't just oversimplify like that and get good information. Yes, there are badly designed shrouds that can hurt your cause. But a well designed shroud will absolutely improve efficiency. The OP's car could easily make use of an OE shroud, and I bet he'd improve his cooling efficiency 10-20% just doing that.

Funny how I never had a cooling issue with these cars back in the 60's, 70's, but that was original cars, not pieced together, bored out, parts missing, corroded engines, etc!! I have yet to build an old Mopar and address all the issues (post $5) plus a few more and not have a car run at the temp. it should. Yes some engine combos will run otter than others.

Using the OE and "back in the day" arguments for the original radiators has pitfalls too. Most of us have doubled the amount of horsepower our engines are putting out, which increases the amount of heat generated by more than two fold. The factory cooling system was designed for a lot less horsepower, but was also designed to be pretty robust, so it works for a lot more horsepower than was originally intended. But some of that is how these cars are used now too, you can get away with some things on a "weekend car" that would bite you on a daily driver.
 
Another detail I understand that can have a bearing, are the rubber seals generally found on the underside front and rear of the hood.
When I get a car with AC, first thing I do is pull it. I want to work on the engine and not have it all in my way. I drive with the windows down, screw the heat, I want actually hear the engine run! I am old and half deaf, can't afford a stroker SB or rebuilt BB ! Those days are long gone! So I just put along with the stock teener or slant slug!!
I have had many stock 340, 383 440 and a few hemi's never a problem running hot.
I have a friend that is a real engine builder, unlike myself. He did say once, he has never seen a bored out 360 that did not run somewhat hot! Dunno
 
Another detail I understand that can have a bearing, are the rubber seals generally found on the underside front and rear of the hood.
When I get a car with AC, first thing I do is pull it. I want to work on the engine and not have it all in my way. I drive with the windows down, screw the heat, I want actually hear the engine run! I am old and half deaf, can't afford a stroker SB or rebuilt BB ! Those days are long gone! So I just put along with the stock teener or slant slug!!
I have had many stock 340, 383 440 and a few hemi's never a problem running hot.
I have a friend that is a real engine builder, unlike myself. He did say once, he has never seen a bored out 360 that did not run somewhat hot! Dunno

Yup, those seals are there to direct air through the radiator and then keep it from escaping at the back of the hood. Removing the front seal allows incoming air to go over the top of the radiator instead of through it, and removing the rear one allows the air to escape instead of being channeled down past the hot exhaust manifolds and headers before going out and taking some of that heat with it.
 
There are several different types of radiator cores....inline tube, staggered tube, different fin styles, etc.

I like the plate and fin style but those are for HD applications.

If you have more than a single row of tubes a staggered tube core is essential.

I had a five row core, plate/fin style for my blown Hemi-fied '56 F100. I kept that and want to use it on the engine running stand I have.
 
Yes! This is important stuff to recognize. This is why you have to pay attention to the entire cooling system, not just the radiator, or just the pulley ratio. Everything taken together.

The "maximum cooling" cars were a .95:1 with an HD water pump. The AC cars were 1.2:1 to 1.4:1 depending on the engine, but they had standard water pumps. Think about what the AC cars have- a big condenser sitting out in front of the radiator. It lowers airflow through the radiator. At speed it's not as big a deal, there's a large volume of air. But at idle or slow speeds when you're depending on the fan, that restriction is a much bigger deal. So, the pulleys are overdriven, the fan turns faster and moves more air, and the water pump is "downgraded" to standard to keep the amount of water moving close to the same.

Just saying overdrive the pulleys isn't a magic bullet. The OP already has a HD water pump. 1:1 on the ratio is more likely what he needs, but he needs to increase the air flow.



You have to be careful here. Some of what you're saying is true, but then you're taking that and making assumptions that aren't.

Yes, a poorly designed shroud that's too close to the radiator can cause issues when the car is at speed. That's why you see some of the aftermarket shrouds with doors and flaps and things that open up. They're trying to compensate for a poor design, or one that they've compromised due to space limitations.

BUT, fans are more efficient with a shroud. Putting the fan closer to the radiator doesn't fix the problem. When the car isn't moving, the fan is pulling air. What the shroud does is two-fold- it sets the area that the air is being pulled from. So, all the air that the fan is pulling goes across the radiator core. If the fan is too close to the radiator, it will not pull air evenly across the entire core, and you lose efficiency. The other thing is that the fan will bleed air around the sides of the fan, some air goes around the fan, some air is churned up by the fan but not pulled across the core or directly cleanly away from the core. That's what the lip on the shroud does. It ensures that all the air is pulled across the core, it keeps air from bleeding out around the fan blades, and it directs the air away from the radiator and fan. Setting the depth of the fan in the shroud also plays a big part, you need the lip on the shroud in the right spot to keep air from bleeding out and improve efficiency.

So just putting the fan close to the radiator doesn't do all of that. You still lose efficiency. The distance of the fan from the radiator from the factory wasn't too far, it was to maximize the efficiency of the fan. Sure, some other models have really deep shrouds because the engine compartment was so large (like C-bodies), but A-bodies don't have that issue.

Aerodynamics and air flow are complicated subjects, and you can't just oversimplify like that and get good information. Yes, there are badly designed shrouds that can hurt your cause. But a well designed shroud will absolutely improve efficiency. The OP's car could easily make use of an OE shroud, and I bet he'd improve his cooling efficiency 10-20% just doing that.



Using the OE and "back in the day" arguments for the original radiators has pitfalls too. Most of us have doubled the amount of horsepower our engines are putting out, which increases the amount of heat generated by more than two fold. The factory cooling system was designed for a lot less horsepower, but was also designed to be pretty robust, so it works for a lot more horsepower than was originally intended. But some of that is how these cars are used now too, you can get away with some things on a "weekend car" that would bite you on a daily driver.

I agree, I gave the simplified version. Because we are discussing decades old designs. Newer front ends are much cleaner that the older designs, so things have to be accounted for because of a lack of air at the front of the car at road speed with the newer stuff.

I also realize the fan is more efficient with a shroud, but how much efficiency does it need? And at what cost? If the air is packing at the front of the radiator because the shroud and fan can’t pass the air, you get into all sorts of issues?

I just picked one source for pump speed (Chrysler) but there are others that cover it in more detail. Evans coolant for one. They also say 20% over. IIRC so does Stewart Components.
 
There are several different types of radiator cores....inline tube, staggered tube, different fin styles, etc.

I like the plate and fin style but those are for HD applications.

If you have more than a single row of tubes a staggered tube core is essential.

I had a five row core, plate/fin style for my blown Hemi-fied '56 F100. I kept that and want to use it on the engine running stand I have.
There are several different types of radiator cores....inline tube, staggered tube, different fin styles, etc.

I like the plate and fin style but those are for HD applications.

If you have more than a single row of tubes a staggered tube core is essential.

I had a five row core, plate/fin style for my blown Hemi-fied '56 F100. I kept that and want to use it on the engine running stand I have.


5 cores???? How thick is that thing????
 
5 cores???? How thick is that thing??

Edit.
Funny thing memories...
In my mind's eye the radiator is huge. Just looked for rads and they dont seem to be much bigger than A body rads.


Plus there is SOOOOO much room in the engine compartment.
Had one with a tilt front end. I used to sit on the front tire to do engine work, that was a long time ago.
 
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I agree, I gave the simplified version. Because we are discussing decades old designs. Newer front ends are much cleaner that the older designs, so things have to be accounted for because of a lack of air at the front of the car at road speed with the newer stuff.

I also realize the fan is more efficient with a shroud, but how much efficiency does it need? And at what cost? If the air is packing at the front of the radiator because the shroud and fan can’t pass the air, you get into all sorts of issues?

I just picked one source for pump speed (Chrysler) but there are others that cover it in more detail. Evans coolant for one. They also say 20% over. IIRC so does Stewart Components.

Speaking of shrouds . I changed the bulbs in the headlights on my 2014 ram . I got to thinking about the upper radiator sealing flap , that keeps air from going over the radiator, completley enclosing the gill area to force the air thru the rad. , I`m thinking that it would help our old cars to do that, and would be better than my home made front seal trying to seal my fiberglass hood.
Gonna make one when I run across the right material.
Need about 67 x 6 1/2'' of something, preferably black and slightly flexable , and of course lite weight .-------------????
Would be another interesting experiment ..
 
I agree, I gave the simplified version. Because we are discussing decades old designs. Newer front ends are much cleaner that the older designs, so things have to be accounted for because of a lack of air at the front of the car at road speed with the newer stuff.

I also realize the fan is more efficient with a shroud, but how much efficiency does it need? And at what cost? If the air is packing at the front of the radiator because the shroud and fan can’t pass the air, you get into all sorts of issues?

I just picked one source for pump speed (Chrysler) but there are others that cover it in more detail. Evans coolant for one. They also say 20% over. IIRC so does Stewart Components.

I really think you're putting far too much emphasis on this whole "air stacking" idea.

And I'm not saying that it isn't a valid concern, it can in fact be an issue. But it's not nearly as big of an issue as you're making it out to be. Pretty much all of these cars came with shrouds from the factory. Pretty much all new cars come with them. Factory designed shrouds are not going to be that big of a concern for air packing.

The only instance where you would consider air packing as a possible issue is if you were having problems with the temperature increasing while at freeway speeds (or higher). And even then there are other considerations that would be much more likely (too small a radiator, plugged up radiator, missing hood seals, underdriven pulley, etc). The aerodynamics in most automotive situations don't really start to come into play until you've exceeded 100mph. In this instance, not only would you have to be going that fast, but you'd have to sustain it long enough for the temperature to start creeping up. And it would be a "creep", it wouldn't just suddenly shoot up. Realistically that's not an issue for very many people, especially the way these cars are used now. Drag racing isn't a long enough sustained high speed. Unless you had a VERY poorly designed shroud, you'd have to be a long track road racer for it to really be an issue.

Are there shrouds out there that could cause you issues at freeway speeds? Sure. None of the stock shrouds though. Take this one for example-
s-l1600.jpg

That's a terrible design. It's basically a cookie sheet with a couple fans bolted to it. Which is probably why they had to add the louvers. This is a Champion set up, by the way. They used to just be flat with no louvers. The shroud is too close to the core, the fans are just tacked onto the back, the whole thing is completely flat. This is the kind of thing that needs flaps and louvers to keep from air stacking at freeway speeds. Also, I'd never recommend this fan set up. There's no info on the fan cfm, and even if there was it's likely the fans won't flow what they're rated at.

Now, this is my fan and shroud set up. This is the '95-00 Ford Contour fan. It's for the same 26" radiator as shown above. At first glance it looks pretty much the same, pretty flat, fairly thin.
img_1558_zps3b79216a-jpg.jpg

But that's not the whole story. If you look at it from an angle, you see that the shroud is actually NOT flat. It's thin at the edges, but the shroud is angled back into the fans and is much deeper there.
IMG_5432.jpeg

It might not look like much, but that's a substantial difference. The rear of the shroud is not just a flat plate, it has significantly more depth and the back being tapered into the fans makes a big difference. You can also see just looking at the picture from the back that the cage on the back of the Champion fans is much more restrictive than on the Contour set up. Those are subtle differences, but with aerodynamics the subtle differences can be very important, especially at higher speeds. I have no issues at all with my Contour fans. My car runs down the freeway in 100°+ weather at 80 mph just fine, in fact the temperature even in those conditions will trend down. If I maintain it long enough the temp ends up very close to my thermostat temperature.

How important is that efficiency? It depends. If you can keep your car cool without a shroud it might not be an issue for you. But I would always run a shroud with a mechanical fan. You can easily be losing 10-20% of the efficiency of your fan without one. Which just means the rest of your cooling system has to be overkill to make it work without one. For a drag racer that might mean you're carrying around too much weight, running a larger radiator than necessary. Or losing more HP driving your fan than you would need to with a shroud. Maybe with a shroud you get away with underdriving the pulley, and you get more horsepower back.
 
Speaking of shrouds . I changed the bulbs in the headlights on my 2014 ram . I got to thinking about the upper radiator sealing flap , that keeps air from going over the radiator, completley enclosing the gill area to force the air thru the rad. , I`m thinking that it would help our old cars to do that, and would be better than my home made front seal trying to seal my fiberglass hood.
Gonna make one when I run across the right material.
Need about 67 x 6 1/2'' of something, preferably black and slightly flexable , and of course lite weight .-------------????
Would be another interesting experiment ..

Uh, they already make those. These cars came with them from the factory.
Mopar A Body 67-76 Hood to Cowl Seal with SS Clips Dart Demon Duster DMT | eBay

Mopar A Body 67-71 Hood to Radiator Support Seal & Black Plated SS Clips DMT | eBay
 
So much great information. I think the bottom line is, I’m running a 1971 340 in my 65 dart 273 with a 273 radiator. Isn’t the radiator to small to start with? Don’t I need to start with the correct size radiator? Unfortunately the radiator I’m using now doesn’t have a number on it so I can’t even look it up.
 
I really think you're putting far too much emphasis on this whole "air stacking" idea.

And I'm not saying that it isn't a valid concern, it can in fact be an issue. But it's not nearly as big of an issue as you're making it out to be. Pretty much all of these cars came with shrouds from the factory. Pretty much all new cars come with them. Factory designed shrouds are not going to be that big of a concern for air packing.

The only instance where you would consider air packing as a possible issue is if you were having problems with the temperature increasing while at freeway speeds (or higher). And even then there are other considerations that would be much more likely (too small a radiator, plugged up radiator, missing hood seals, underdriven pulley, etc). The aerodynamics in most automotive situations don't really start to come into play until you've exceeded 100mph. In this instance, not only would you have to be going that fast, but you'd have to sustain it long enough for the temperature to start creeping up. And it would be a "creep", it wouldn't just suddenly shoot up. Realistically that's not an issue for very many people, especially the way these cars are used now. Drag racing isn't a long enough sustained high speed. Unless you had a VERY poorly designed shroud, you'd have to be a long track road racer for it to really be an issue.

Are there shrouds out there that could cause you issues at freeway speeds? Sure. None of the stock shrouds though. Take this one for example-
View attachment 1715496286
That's a terrible design. It's basically a cookie sheet with a couple fans bolted to it. Which is probably why they had to add the louvers. This is a Champion set up, by the way. They used to just be flat with no louvers. The shroud is too close to the core, the fans are just tacked onto the back, the whole thing is completely flat. This is the kind of thing that needs flaps and louvers to keep from air stacking at freeway speeds. Also, I'd never recommend this fan set up. There's no info on the fan cfm, and even if there was it's likely the fans won't flow what they're rated at.

Now, this is my fan and shroud set up. This is the '95-00 Ford Contour fan. It's for the same 26" radiator as shown above. At first glance it looks pretty much the same, pretty flat, fairly thin.
View attachment 1715496307
But that's not the whole story. If you look at it from an angle, you see that the shroud is actually NOT flat. It's thin at the edges, but the shroud is angled back into the fans and is much deeper there.
View attachment 1715496297
It might not look like much, but that's a substantial difference. The rear of the shroud is not just a flat plate, it has significantly more depth and the back being tapered into the fans makes a big difference. You can also see just looking at the picture from the back that the cage on the back of the Champion fans is much more restrictive than on the Contour set up. Those are subtle differences, but with aerodynamics the subtle differences can be very important, especially at higher speeds. I have no issues at all with my Contour fans. My car runs down the freeway in 100°+ weather at 80 mph just fine, in fact the temperature even in those conditions will trend down. If I maintain it long enough the temp ends up very close to my thermostat temperature.

How important is that efficiency? It depends. If you can keep your car cool without a shroud it might not be an issue for you. But I would always run a shroud with a mechanical fan. You can easily be losing 10-20% of the efficiency of your fan without one. Which just means the rest of your cooling system has to be overkill to make it work without one. For a drag racer that might mean you're carrying around too much weight, running a larger radiator than necessary. Or losing more HP driving your fan than you would need to with a shroud. Maybe with a shroud you get away with underdriving the pulley, and you get more horsepower back.

Agree w/ the above . The only problem I have is , my tanks are on the sides of my radiator , and the fans are too wide to mount up and down , or I would have .
 
That is A/C AND CAP combo.
Guess that combo could generate some heat.
CAP and CAS used late timing at idle to burn more of the HC and produce less CO.
This late timing meant more of the cylinder wall and the exhaust was absorbing the burn energy.
The extra heat did its job in the chemical reaction but at the minor expense of the economy at idle and putting more heat into the engine block.
I'm sure later - maybe mid or late 70s Chrysler would start using coolant temperature control overides. Basic concept is to use manifold vacuum advance at idle when the coolant temperature gets above a certain temperature. So instead of 0 or 5*BTC it would come up to 10 or 5 or such.
Most of us have doubled the amount of horsepower our engines are putting out, which increases the amount of heat generated by more than two fold.
I'll quibble that extra hp is only relevant to extra heat generation when that extra Hp is being produced.
To be fair, I took that comment out of its context. So I'll include the rest of your paragraph. :)
The factory cooling system was designed for a lot less horsepower, but was also designed to be pretty robust, so it works for a lot more horsepower than was originally intended. But some of that is how these cars are used now too, you can get away with some things on a "weekend car" that would bite you on a daily driver.

I'd say the extra Hp is only going to be putting the extra heat into the block if your driving on a road course or doing a timed high speed event like the Silver State Classic. On the drag strip, its only for a few seconds. Heck I lost the fan belt a few times at the track with no problems. Could feel the power increase. LOL. That was when I was still running the non-original 70s style slant six radiator in the 67.
 
I'll quibble that extra hp is only relevant to extra heat generation when that extra Hp is being produced.
To be fair, I took that comment out of its context. So I'll include the rest of your paragraph. :)


I'd say the extra Hp is only going to be putting the extra heat into the block if your driving on a road course or doing a timed high speed event like the Silver State Classic. On the drag strip, its only for a few seconds. Heck I lost the fan belt a few times at the track with no problems. Could feel the power increase. LOL. That was when I was still running the non-original 70s style slant six radiator in the 67.

I mean, yes, that's accurate. You're only adding more heat when you're actually making the extra horsepower compared to stock.

But there's a couple things I think you're overlooking. First, all the extra horsepower is not added just at the peak. For a strong engine, that extra horsepower comes in before the old factory peak. For example, a stock '71 340 was rated at 275 hp @5,000 rpm and 340 ft/lbs of torque at 3,200. Let's take goldduster318's 340 and compare. I'm using him as an example because he has a non-stroked 340 he posted dyno info for. His 340 dynoed at 470 hp @ 5,800 and 455 ft/lbs at 4,400 rpm. So lots higher, but higher peaks too. But that 340 is making 275hp at only 3,369 rpm. That's not maxed out on the drag strip rpm. That's everyday driving. Heck that was everyday on the freeway for me before I added the T56, I was frequently running at 3,500 rpm for extended periods. And torque? Well, the lowest recorded torque for that engine is 408 ft/lbs at 2,940. So it's pretty much always making more torque than the stock 340 ever did. That's heat too.

So yes, you're only adding more heat when you're actually making the power, that's true. But you don't have to be redlined at the SilverState Classic to be making that extra power and therefore that extra heat. With a strong engine, a stroker, etc, you could be adding more heat under everyday conditions. Thanks to @goldduster318 for posting his dyno info. MRL Performance 340, WOW!


Pat 340 dyno-20001 (1).jpg

Pat dyno-10001.jpg
 
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My 500 ? 440 has a 26" 3 core Champion. I made the shroud for my Dart with a Dartboard. Kinda fun to do. You can make your own size fan diameter and how deep you can get away with. I'm actually running a 16" fan which I know I sould of gone a little bigger but haven't had to change it.

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I mean, yes, that's accurate. You're only adding more heat when you're actually making the extra horsepower compared to stock.

But there's a couple things I think you're overlooking. First, all the extra horsepower is not added just at the peak. For a strong engine, that extra horsepower comes in before the old factory peak. For example, a stock '71 340 was rated at 275 hp @5,000 rpm and 340 ft/lbs of torque at 3,200. Let's take goldduster318's 340 and compare. I'm using him as an example because he has a non-stroked 340 he posted dyno info for. His 340 dynoed at 470 hp @ 5,800 and 455 ft/lbs at 4,400 rpm. So lots higher, but higher peaks too. But that 340 is making 275hp at only 3,369 rpm. That's not maxed out on the drag strip rpm. That's everyday driving. Heck that was everyday on the freeway for me before I added the T56, I was frequently running at 3,500 rpm for extended periods. And torque? Well, the lowest recorded torque for that engine is 408 ft/lbs at 2,940. So it's pretty much always making more torque than the stock 340 ever did. That's heat too.

So yes, you're only adding more heat when you're actually making the power, that's true. But you don't have to be redlined at the SilverState Classic to be making that extra power and therefore that extra heat. With a strong engine, a stroker, etc, you could be adding more heat under everyday conditions. Thanks to @goldduster318 for posting his dyno info. MRL Performance 340, WOW!


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Not sure why you're missing this. Power is work over time. The only situation where that extra power will be produced is when accelerating or something like pulling a boat out of the water.
If it takes 40 hp to maintain 70 mph on a flat, then that's all that it takes.
 
My 500 ? 440 has a 26" 3 core Champion. I made the shroud for my Dart with a Dartboard. Kinda fun to do. You can make your own size fan diameter and how deep you can get away with. I'm actually running a 16" fan which I know I sould of gone a little bigger but haven't had to change it.

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Brilliant!!! I was thinking of making a shroud from sheet metal but this is awesome!!! Thank you for sharing.
 
My 500 ? 440 has a 26" 3 core Champion. I made the shroud for my Dart with a Dartboard. Kinda fun to do. You can make your own size fan diameter and how deep you can get away with. I'm actually running a 16" fan which I know I sould of gone a little bigger but haven't had to change it.

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Is that fiberglass cloth or just regular cloth?
 
Regular stretchy cloth from fabric store. Then you use a couple of coats of fiberglass resin. Then pop it off (Note plastic )the mold and use matt with resin to build up some thickness and strength on the inside . I read it somewhere. If I can find it I will post it.
 
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