Who builds reliable race/street engines?

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Phreakish said:
What kind of gear is on your engine? Intake/carb? If you already have a decent 4bbl and performance intake (Edelbrock RPM, airgap, LD340 etc) then I'd give their roller long-block a good hard look:
Mopar 408CI Stroker Crate Engine | Small Block Chrysler
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The rear end is a 7.25. The engine is 1971 318 stock, heads stock, with steel intake. TTI Headers, 750 CFM Carter carburetor, 904 tranny. Yes, I think the cfm on that carb is high. We are aware tranny, gears, brakes, radiator will need to be matched with engine.

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Marcohotrod said:
rotating assembly - external Johnny - does that mean externally balanced? if so it should include a damper and a weighted flexplate or flywheel!
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Magnum balancer, and LA360 rear balance.
If swapping from a 318 to a BPE 408, a B&M conversion flex plate can be used to obtain proper balance, or a std 360 flywheel if using a 4spd. For those who are replacing a 360 with a 408, there's nothing required since their parts are already compatible.

Everyone has different desires for their balancers, but BPE offers one for a decent price.
Mopar Small Block Harmonic Balancer | 273 | 318 | 340 | 360 | 408 |
 
Steve Mcbean said:
The rear end is a 7.25. The engine is 1971 318 stock, heads stock, with steel intake. TTI Headers, 750 CFM Carter carburetor, 904 tranny.
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Sounds like you're well on the way. Any stroker is going to make quick work of that rear but you already know that..
At least you can reuse the carb though!
 
Marcohotrod said:
rotating assembly - external Johnny - does that mean externally balanced? if so it should include a damper and a weighted flexplate or flywheel!
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We can include a damper. If you view our website, or the BluePrint section of the forum you'll see the new BPP360 damper.

If we balance a crank, rods, etc. To a spec, then the need to do it as an assembly isn't needed.

IMO its a misconception that things that apply to 10,000 rpm builds apply to all engines. It results in added cost with little gain.
 
the original poster is replacing a 318, if they are running a clutch, finding a flywheel for a 360 is a hassle ! my bad o. p. is automatic, buy a b+m flexplate
 
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Nats wants everything - my damper,crank sprocket, oil slinger, rod bearings, rods, pistons, pins, rings, crank, flywheel and bolts
 
lots of good suggestions
Bp engines, IMM both top choices
I do my own machine work so trying to be impartial here
other choice with less aluminum cans is to wait for a 40% off day at pick a part and grab a complete 360 magnum (take a battery and check compression but all I've done did not need a bore job) you want one that was wrecked not in the yard for some unknown reason, obviously check the oil
now your headers fit and you will need to drill your heads for your manifold or get a different manifold- there - done- use your waterpump
need an electric fuel pump - lots of threads on this and websites that specialize in this conversion
Slantsix64 lives near me and did a DIY- see his thread
cheers no matter what you do
if crate start with a roller block
 
Marcohotrod said:
Nats wants everything - my damper,crank sprocket, oil slinger, rod bearings, rods, pistons, pins, rings, crank, flywheel and bolts
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I see you picking apart the balancing methods. So to your method...companies should not be able to sell harmonic balancers correct? every rotating assembly on the planet needs balanced down to the oil slinger (which many don't even include on their engine builds)
there are lots of engine companies selling short blocks, long blocks, etc. they are all inadequate BC they don't balance down to crank bolts?
 
I am also a proud and very happy owner of a BPE 408 - super happy with the experience. I am about 600 miles in, another 200 away (breaking in the new rear end) from really hammering it

Plenty of power, great sound, with a warranty. Depending on where you live, there is a good chance there isn't a good engine builder around. Let a lone the costs in some areas. I would do it again
 
I think I'm about in that HP range. About a hp per cube. 5.9 short block, stock type rebuilder parts, Procomp heads and good machine work. About 2K invested, but not as easy or as good as a BPE 408.
 
A few years ago I was talking to my friend who owns a local machine/engine shop about building a mild 360... he tells me it would likely be better to just have him order me a long block from Blueprint
 
Regarding two bolt strength.... a Mopar isn't made of Swiss cheese like the SBC. The iron is quality.


Have you ever looked at the main bolts in a SBM? Beefy 1/2". GM? Spindly little 7/16". No wonder GM needs 4 bolts.

Same with Mopar cast cranks. They are tough...not sure about the Ho Chi Min variety but the OEM cranks are tuff. The owner of one my Chevy loving engine shops asks.." when was the last time I saw a broken Mopar crank? Never..."

I'm rebuilding my 388 SBM race motor with good parts and machining and won't spend $5k on it. Granted I have the heads, block and tins but everything will be new or repaired...pistons, cam, lifters, springs yadayadayada. If you spend 7k you are wasting money.
 
you can even go down to chevy rods and pins and go 4 1/4 and still be strong enough
the extra 22 cu/in allows you to back off on the compression and cam and still have more torque at lower rpm's=rpm costs cubic money
however
street
strip
pick one
 
Caco - do U know what an externally balanced assembly is? companies should sell dampers, and if we can throw it on the assembly and a flywheel or flexplate (needs bolts) at balancing why not - especially on an EXTERNALLY BALANCED kit
 
Marcohotrod said:
Caco - do U know what an externally balanced assembly is? companies should sell dampers, and if we can throw it on the assembly and a flywheel or flexplate (needs bolts) at balancing why not - especially on an EXTERNALLY BALANCED kit
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You're insinuating its REQUIRED in your other post. Its Not.
If you need a replacement flywheel, balancer, whatever, do you tear the engine down and rebalance? No...b/c the flywheel is already at a spec...be it 340 balance, 360 balance, etc. I understand exactly how it works, and I fully trust that a company producing 50+ engines a day is well beyond capable.
 
crackedback said:
Oh boy that fantasy build.... Been around too many similar 340's and it will NOT make 400hp without porting the heads. No way, no how. That particular dyno had a HORRIBLE reputation back then.

That's a 1hp/ci build
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I agree 100% I also found it funny we replaced the crate engine that starts at 5k, for a hens teeth 340 build. Whats a 340 core go for these days? Lol
 
Steve Mcbean said:
Yes, they are old posts. I definitely take that into consideration. I may have pissed some guys off for going on a Chevy forum, but that's what google pulled up when when I searched reviews on you guys. Calling you here shortly.
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Steve, you will not be disappointed. Make no mistake the guys on this forum are merciless. If Johnny Mac wasn’t the real deal with a great product he would get flamed into oblivion on here. Homey or not. The simple fact is there are a bunch of folks On here myself included that endorse him not because we like him but because he has a great product and totally stands behind it.
 
Krooser said:
Regarding two bolt strength.... a Mopar isn't made of Swiss cheese like the SBC. The iron is quality.


Have you ever looked at the main bolts in a SBM? Beefy 1/2". GM? Spindly little 7/16". No wonder GM needs 4 bolts.

Same with Mopar cast cranks. They are tough...not sure about the Ho Chi Min variety but the OEM cranks are tuff. The owner of one my Chevy loving engine shops asks.." when was the last time I saw a broken Mopar crank? Never..."

I'm rebuilding my 388 SBM race motor with good parts and machining and won't spend $5k on it. Granted I have the heads, block and tins but everything will be new or repaired...pistons, cam, lifters, springs yadayadayada. If you spend 7k you are wasting money.
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I have to agree when my engine was built I talked to the engine builder about 4 bolt mains and cast cranks and things like that. (Big ford guy).. he said are you kidding me have you seen the size of a Mopar main bolt!!?... In 40 years plus of owning this shop I've never seen a broken Factory Mopar crank...
 
Marcohotrod said:
the original poster is replacing a 318, if they are running a clutch, finding a flywheel for a 360 is a hassle ! my bad o. p. is automatic, buy a b+m flexplate
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I had no problem calling 440 source and ordering a billet steel flywheel from them... It was neutrally balanced with weights too attached if you wanted it for a 360 and it was under $200 brand new..
 
Caco2120 said:
You're insinuating its REQUIRED in your other post. Its Not.
If you need a replacement flywheel, balancer, whatever, do you tear the engine down and rebalance? No...b/c the flywheel is already at a spec...be it 340 balance, 360 balance, etc. I understand exactly how it works, and I fully trust that a company producing 50+ engines a day is well beyond capable.
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Ever balance a crank? If you have, you’ll know a zero balance flywheel bolted to a balanced crank WILL change the balance. Every time. The question is, how much does the balance change when you bolt the flywheel on.

It depends. If you make the flywheel zero it’s still never zero. And the weight is further from center by far than the crank weights.

So a few grams on a flywheel becomes much greater when it’s bolted to the crank. Now, add the disc and pressure plate and you have a hot mess.
 
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