Putting head on slant six

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hell I see no reason you couldn't wing it over with the starter. just jump the terminal on the relay. ( and make sure everything is clear )

You could but if I was going to take Rusty's advice, I would turn it over slowly by hand just to be sure. You're basically using the rings to clean the cylinder walls so I'd go easy on that with the initial first few passes.
 
Update on head. Polished up pretty ok. Was cleaning valve springs and saw that there is a broken piece inside one of the springs (valve lock?) Tried to take a pic. Will this pose any major issues if I drive with it like this for a while? Thanks

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hell I see no reason you couldn't wing it over with the starter. just jump the terminal on the relay. ( and make sure everything is clear )

Exactly. No reason in the world not to. Just block off the fuel line and make sure everything is out of the way. You don't want a fire from the gas that might find a spark.
 
Max; looks good so far. Rent or buy a valve spring compressor. It looks like a large C-Clamp. Remove the valves and keep them in order. Inspect them and wire brush off the backside. Buy a valve lapping 'spindle' type tool [cheap], and a small can of lapping compound. Have at it, and if it turns out ok, put in new seals and assemble.
 
The head is off - I would get it disassembled, a light cut to true, hot tanked, a valve job and new seals. That is a piece of valve stem seal. They're all the same age, so you need a new set.
 
I know I have the exhaust seals, might have a set of intake too. Your welcome to them for shipping cost. They're cheap to buy, but shipping might be cheaper. Can I suggest before you take anything apart to fill each chamber with alcohol and let it sit for a bit to ck if the valves are maintaining a good seal. pt70 is right on about lapping the valves in.
 
Oof...touche! Induction hardened iron seats.....pretty shallow at that. Did they work?

0.045" to 0.050" hardening depth. Yep, they worked great—they staved off exhaust valve seat recession—but obviously the hardened area is going to get thinner at every valve regrind. It still makes sense to put in hard seat rings when rebuilding a '72-up head.
 
Replacing all the seals. Which valves are intake and which are exhaust? There are tAll seals and short ones. I’m just replacing them as I take them off.

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I know I have the exhaust seals, might have a set of intake too. Your welcome to them for shipping cost. They're cheap to buy, but shipping might be cheaper. Can I suggest before you take anything apart to fill each chamber with alcohol and let it sit for a bit to ck if the valves are maintaining a good seal. pt70 is right on about lapping the valves in.

thank you for the offer. Just picked some up today before I saw this.
 
Max; looks good so far. Rent or buy a valve spring compressor. It looks like a large C-Clamp. Remove the valves and keep them in order. Inspect them and wire brush off the backside. Buy a valve lapping 'spindle' type tool [cheap], and a small can of lapping compound. Have at it, and if it turns out ok, put in new seals and assemble.

Have any videos you can send me on lapping valves by hand?
 
Max; head bolts = 65 ft lbs
rocker shaft bolts = 25 ft lbs both #s from a 1971 manual

The way I've always done it is to clean the valve face with choke cleaner. Stick the valve to the rubber cup. Put a dab of compound on the valve at the 45 angle surface. Smear it all around the valve. Stick it in the head. Make like an Indian starting a fire and push down lightly while the valve is turning back and forth. After about 5 times, lift the valve a little, and go a quarter turn, and repeat. After a minute or two, pull the valve out, wipe it clean, and wipe the seat clean. Inspect both. Some require more lapping than others.

U tube must have a video.
 
Great advice here already, but my advice is to get a Factory Service Manual for your car and follow it instead of just feeling your way through this........
It's probably the best investment that you will make especially at this point.
 
Valve seals installed. Rocker arm shaft and rockers installed. Do the rocker arms correlate to specific valves? I threw them all in a bucket to degrease and reinstalled as if they were universal.
The push rods that came with the car aren’t all the same. There are three types.
Three of the ones on the left with a larger ball end and rounder cupped rocker end.
Seven of the middle smaller ball end.
Two with a rounded off end with no ball at all. Any help here? Hope whatever lifters are in block will make this clear on installation...

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I don't see "crap" pushrods. I see three different types. Probably all the correct length, but if that was my engine and as cheap as pushrods are, it would get a new matching set.
 
I don't see "crap" pushrods. I see three different types. Probably all the correct length, but if that was my engine and as cheap as pushrods are, it would get a new matching set.


Yup. Somebody somewhere in the past bent a couple or motor has been apart before and a couple were lost or whatever.
Look all to be same length but..... I think I'd get a matched set.
( and yes. I am a cheap s.o.b. so....)
 
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