How did nitrous get such a bad rep...?

Just added up the costs for my very minimal nitrous installation. If I bought all the stuff from Summit today, it would cost me $940 to set up my car the way I have it right now, as it runs, with an NOS Cheater kit set with factory 250hp jetting. Bottles are shipped empty now, so add whatever the local cost is to fill it these days.
At that amount, for a really basic hillbilly setup, you can see why some guys that spent $10,000 on an engine to run mid 12s get all butt hurt when a rusty piece of **** like mine runs 11.80s with nitrous on a $3,000 engine.

Now, on stuck solenoids "blowing up engines" as people keep saying. How many guys admit they made a tuning error that melted their pistons, regardless if they run nitrous, turbo, supercharger, or naturally aspirated? Very few. They all blame component. Not saying it does not happen, like the one guy here that did have a wastegate failure cause his damage. I had a stuck nitrous solenoid once. What happened? Nothing but loss of power. The nitrous side solenoid failed to open and the system went pig rich on activation, nosing over. No damage. I have seen nistrous backfires in other cars a few times at start up, likely causing by leaking or stuck open nitrous solenoids. At 250hp level it usually just damages the carb butterflies.

Let's say a guy has $30,000 in an engine, not counting nitrous setup expenses. He misses the tune or has a solenoid failures and somehow melts all 8 pistons and spark plugs. I never saw every piston get damaged, but let's say that for now. How much does a new set of pistons and rings, full gaskets, spark plugs, machine shop labor cost to rebuild that engine? Probably not the $10,000 that so many claim to have in parts damage from a stuck solenoid. Even if a really expensive sheet metal tunnel ram intake and two carbs got damage are we just approaching that amazing $10,000 mark, but that is on a really high end setup, and that would often have burst panels in the intake to prevent the intake damage.

As for claims that nitrous is cheating no matter what, like steroids. Why? Why is not cheating to race someone and not tell them all your internal engine modifications and camshaft specs before the race? Why is it not cheating to claim to have a 340 when you are really running a stroker 416, or whatever? Why is not cheating to race someone and not tell them you have really nice professionally ported cylinder heads, instead of unmodified factory castings?

Really this all boils down to "who cares" in the big scheme of things. Some will always like it. Some will always hate it for no real reason, or maybe even for a specific reason. But it is pretty nice to be able to have a REAL mild or near stock, streetable, mid 13 second car, for example, and when you want to run a mid to high 11 second run for the heck of it, just back down the timing, add more octane to the fuel, and turn the kit on. Sounds fun to me.
With the example I gave of a cheap turbo setup (I don't think an expensive blow through carb was included in that) and the example you gave of a nitrous setup cost wise, I would like to address this "myth" that nitrous is one "cheap horsepower" and "easy"... "BULLCRAP!!"
I strongly believe this is why people blow their engines up.. someone don't know nothing about it buys some generic kit and think he's going to set the world on fire... First the generic kit comes with nothing for the fuel side except a fuel solenoid... Not knowing any better just puts a t fitting in his fuel line after the pump (hopefully after the pump and not before LOL) and runs it to the fuel side solenoid... Easy... (Likely improper fuel pressure, no fuel pressure gauge, no low pressure cutoff switch, no filter, definitely running whatever octane gas is in the tank, ECT...)
Most generic kits don't come with a pressure gauge for the nitrous bottle, so who knows what the pressure is???!!..
Most kits only come with a full throttle activation switch which means any time you're at full throttle it activates both solenoids or should... Hopefully this cheap kit comes with an arming switch so you can shut that off...
And the most important thing to keep your motor from blowing up is never addressed in one of these cheap kits..
Timing retard... If you're smart enough to take this into consideration without a timing retard mechanism of some sort you're going to have to adjust your distributor absolutely every time you use nitrous... Or continuously try and drive around with retard timing..
I would say if you're going to do it right A good rule of thumb would be to double at the very least the cost of one of those cheap kits... Long before the bottle is filled... and once you accumulate this cheap kit and all the stuff to make it work right if you think it's just as easy as slapping a bottle in the trunk in my opinion you've lost your marbles....
Did someone mention the price of a Purge kit? LOL...