Crank but no Spark issue.
Okay the car is a 74 dodge dart swinger, 318, with a A904.
Im having quite an issue here.
Getting tons of fuel, i see it spray into the carb, and the see thru fuel filter is filled with fuel.
You must be methodical instead of throwing lots of parts at the thing. That is because new parts are not always good meaning functional, and you can introduce new problems. There is some testing you can do
(On an aside ARE YOU SURE the fuel you see spraying into the carb is actually gas and not, say, water?)
Remove and inspect plugs. Are they wet/ dry/ fouled/ warn?
Is it possible the timing chain slipped? Does it crank "sound" like normal? You might consider running a compression check. On worn engines, its even very possible that it does not have enough compression OR THAT CONTINUED tries to start, you have enough fuel to wash oil down off the cylinders and reduce compression.
Ignition system itself
1..Make ABSOLUTELY certain that the ECU is GROUNDED
2..Turn key to "run" and measure coil+ voltage to ground. It should not be "high" that is it should NOT be up to battery voltage. It should instead be somewhere between 6V and 10V. Assuming the battery is charged and above 12V
3..."Rig" a spark test gap, or buy a spark tester. Use solid core wire from the coil tower to test. Crank the engine using the key. You normally should get a big fat blue spark at least 3/8" and usually longer
4...If not, clip your meter to the coil+ and to ground, Crank the engine using the key and read meter while cranking. Meter should read "same as battery" while cranking, and should be above 10.5V or higher
5...Turn key to run. Disconnect distributor 2 wire (pickup) connector. Inspect it with a light for corrosion, and "work" it in/out several times to scrub the contacts clean. With your spark gap "rigged" to the coil tower, take up the end connected to the engine bay, not the distributor. "Tap" the bare end to ground and each time you do, should get a nice hot blue single "SNAP" spark.
If you get this spark, and not at the plugs, move to the distributor. Remove cap and rotor, and carefully inspect for damage, carbon/ water/ dirt, and rotor "punch through." Inspect the reluctor/ pickup for rust/ debri, strike damage, and wiggle the shaft looking for excessive play.
Connect your meter to the distributor connector, with the meter set on low AC volts. Crank the engine. The distributor pickup should produce about 1V AC output
Get a brass feeler gauge and check the gap between reluctor and pickup coil. It should be about .008" That's inches, not metric. Inspect for damage due to too close gap or shaft/ bushing wear