Some valid points, but some I believe are exaggerated. Let's say I agree with all the precautionary extras on a serious use with big horsepower gains. then we can move onto why I don't run all those extra parts that add cost.
First, a pressure gauge on the bottle fitting tells you pressure only. Does nothing for bottle liquid content, which is only accurately measured in weight. A 10 pound bottle carries 10 pounds of liquid nitrous. That same bottle that is 5 pounds light is about half full. Also, generally speaking, nitrous bottle pressure will be about 10psi for every 1 degree of fahrenheit of bottle temperature. So a 90 degree bottle can pretty safely assume a 900psi bottle pressure, given a decent amount of remaining liquid. That's why you generally heat the bottle to 90 degrees, give or take, depending on your tune. Now, it is easier to read pressure from the driver seat when using a purge system to get back down to 900psi if the temp/pressure has gone too high.
Now, purge kits. The reason I don't use a purge kit is because on a 250 horsepower or lower factory jetting tune up it's simply not worth the cost to me. I already set my bottle temperature before I go to make a run, so only benefit would be to purge the expanded gas out of the feed line all the way to the solenoid. To that, I just manually crack the line loose at the solenoid or do a quick dry hop with the system activated.
Next, teeing into the existing fuel line. Fuel system needs are basically based on your expected fuel consumtion of the entire packaged, correct? If I am making three hundred horsepower naturally aspirated with a carb, why in the world would I run something like a giant Aeromotive 1000 series electric fuel pump. Screw that. Put on a mechanical fuel pump, using the stock fuel line setup, and just the make sure the fuel pump delivers enough galons per minute to maintain a 300hp setup. Now if I want to make 450hp with a carb, regardless if its with nitrous or naturally aspirated, I can still put on a nice mechanical fuel pump rated to supply enough fuel for that power level, then it is safe to tee into the existing fuel line going to the carb from the pump. And the pump only puts out 5 or 6 psi, or if I already have a regulator to get that pressure, I am good to go.
Fuel octane is another one that is often overrated. If that same 300hp naturally aspirated setup only has 9 to 1 static compression, and I have a camshaft that is keeping the cylinder pressure in a reasonable range, reasonable enough to run my same octane up to 450hp, then why not stick with that same fuel octane, since it's cheaper. It's the same thing as the cruise night guys that run racing fuel just so it has that smell when he pulls into the show. Not needed.
I would never bag on anyone for overbuilding the system if that is what they want to do and can afford it, but by repeatedly saying everyone running nitrous needs all this extra crap is just adding to the whole negative stigma surrounding nitrous use. I don't intend this overly long post to be negative toward anyone, but as it pertains to this particular thread, this is how I do it and why i do that way.
