Mopar Cam- how many more degrees @.006 to equal at .200?

9* is ~1.3 cam sizes.
Check out the associated lifts.
Having a cam 1.2 sizes bigger @.050 with the same or similar .006 numbers, means you don't have to suffer the associated pressure loss with that 1.2 sizes bigger advertised cam.
At 250* advertised this may not be a big deal on most engines, but the chart illustrates the difference that doing your homework before buying, can make.

If you are shopping for a 268/276, 340type cam for instance; changing the Ica just 3.5* puts you up into the next bigger cam.So if you have the option of 228* .050, or 224*@.050, with the same [email protected], that could mean 15*hp at the peak....... without the loss in cylinder pressure that would normally be associated with that next bigger cam.
So if you already have a pressure-challenged engine, then, choosing a fast rate-of-lift cam could get you where you wanna be, and still have enough cylinder pressure left over, that you don't need the next higher stall TC.

For streeters; the normal range of cams IMO is from 230*@.050 down to [email protected]..... which is about 4 sizes; each size being 7*.

Typically, the ramps will add from 38* to 48* , to get to the advertised.... which itself is rather ambiguous on account of that advertised could be at .008 tappet rise, or .006, or .001 or anything in between; they don't always tell you. Furthermore, from advertised to on the seat and not leaking could be many more degrees. That may not make any difference at WOT and jamming gears;but how much time does your streeter spend in that mode.
No, for a streeter, that advertised has several ramifications; including but not limited to; hiway fuel-economy, city consumption, take off-characteristics, busting the tires loose, Part Throttle torque, choice of stall and rear gears, and tuning the bugger. Did I mention;all this is on about 4 cam sizes.
Generally; if you have a small displacement, lo-compression engine, you need to stick to the small end of the scale, to keep your pressure up, so you don't have to run a big TC and race gears, so you can bust the tires loose. But if it is possible to get a fast-rate cam, maybe you can go to the next bigger cam. Or, with a bit of a compromise, maybe two sizes is possible. And that , I'm pretty sure, would make a lot of smoggerteen owners happy. If it is possible to combine this fast-rate, with a hi-lift, then you have winner.
So while a difference of 9* doesn't seem like much; we can't lose sight of what is happening at the other ends of the scales. 9* at .050 is a lot. About 1.2 cam sizes.
Each cam size moves the operating rpm up about 200rpm. By the formula for finding hp, 200 is the big player. Have a look;
TQ x rpm/5250=HP is the formula
Say your engine picked up,
20 ftlbs at 5250 rpm; ... then 20 x 5250/5250= 20hp
Or say 20ftlbs at 5050, then; 20 x 5050/5250= 19.2
Or say 20 at 4850, then; ..... 20 x 4850/5250= 18.5
...............at 4650, then; .............................. 17.7
.............. at 4450, then; ...............................16.9
This 206 cam,in Wyrmriders post, in a 318 to 360,might have a power peak around 4450. I can't say how much power/torque your combo will pick up; every engine is different. I pulled 20 ftlbs out of thin air for illustrative purposes.
For example; from 4450 to 5250 is 800rpm, which according to the example above might lead you to think that the power increase might be ~70/80hp, but that is patently absurd. A 273 will not make the same increase as a 440.
Nevertheless; if your 273 picked up 20 ftlbs at peak with whatever changes you make; be it cam, heads, or exhaust/induction, whatever; the formula predicts correctly according to the chart. The formula doesn't care how you got the 20 ftlbs; it only wants to know at what rpm this occurred; then it spits out a made-up number we call horsepower.
Now, having said that; if the plus 20 ftlbs that occurred at 4450, cost you 20 ftlbs at 2000 stall, then you just lost;
20 x 2000/5250=7.6hp right there. Losing 7.6hp at 2000 with a lo-compression 318 is like the 4bbl quit. But not just that, in normal operation, you have to drive that much deeper into the carb, to maintain what you had before the cam swap, and if you thought your city fuel mileage sucked before the swap, get ready for an eye-opener.
However; if the new fast rate cam, has the same ICA as the one you just took out....... then no horsepower will be lost at stall..... because the cylinder pressure has remained the same.
That is the point, I think, Wyrmrider is making. At least that is what jumped off the page for me.
And a great big thank you to him for making this info available to us.