8-3/4 REAR AXLE SEAL INSTALL ??

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RON REAGLE

RON REAGLE

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I've tried 3 times to install a rear axle seal in my 8-3/4 rear end. I keep messing the seal up and can't get it installed properly. I used a seal installer tool still no luck. Is there a trick to it? Would putting the seal in the freezer help?

I bought the exact seal that came out of the rear end so I know it is the right part number.
 
What exactly is going wrong? With a seal driver it should go smoothly. The disc should be very close to the seal o.d.
 
RON REAGLE said:
I've tried 3 times to install a rear axle seal in my 8-3/4 rear end. I keep messing the seal up and can't get it installed properly. I used a seal installer tool still no luck. Is there a trick to it? Would putting the seal in the freezer help?

I bought the exact seal that came out of the rear end so I know it is the right part number.
Click to expand...

A bit more info might help. How far are you trying to push it in the axle tube?

How exactly is the seal being damaged?
 
I assume the seal needs to be seated all the way in? It's very difficult to align in the tube and the seal is crushing while trying to seat it in the tube. The seal driver is just under size so I don't think it's the problem.
I am using an SKF seal #15460 that I get from NAPA.
 
RON REAGLE said:
I assume the seal needs to be seated all the way in?
Click to expand...

There is a little ridge that the seal comes to rest on, not very far in, maybe 3 to 4 inches. I don't have the exact number. If you are pushing it farther than that, that is why it is getting damaged.

Also, pack the back side where the spring is with grease so the spring doesn't pop out while you are seating it.
 
Is it distorting as soon as it starts in the tube or deeper in at some point?
You should be able to determine approximate depth off the axle.
 
I have installed the seals before I've just never had such a hard time doing it without crushing the seal. The ridge is about 3" inside the tube and I'm trying to get it seated there. I've worked around equipment for years and I know they sometimes freeze parts with liquid nitrogen to "shrink" them. Then install and when they warm back up they are seated and locked in. I just don't know what the "trick" is with this seal. I'm about $50 in seals and still don't have it fixed properly. 80-90w and drum brakes are not a good mix LOL
 
RON REAGLE said:
I have installed the seals before I've just never had such a hard time doing it without crushing the seal. The ridge is about 3" inside the tube and I'm trying to get it seated there. I've worked around equipment for years and I know they sometimes freeze parts with liquid nitrogen to "shrink" them. Then install and when they warm back up they are seated and locked in. I just don't know what the "trick" is with this seal. I'm about $50 in seals and still don't have it fixed properly. 80-90w and drum brakes are not a good mix LOL
Click to expand...
What the part # on the old seal and manufacturer?
 
is your tube clean? freezing it would not hurt...Id run the seal tool in there and see if there is any buggers, maybe a flap wheel on a drill to buff any corrosion out?
 
There's no corrosion or burrs inside the tube. This is a street car driven regularly. I noticed some gear oil seepage on the rear tire and pulled the axle to replace the seal. After getting the first replacement I threw the old seal away figuring the job was done. I rechecked the part number and I believe it's the correct one. I'm going to try freezing the next one I'll let you guys know how it goes.
 
RON REAGLE said:
... sometimes freeze parts with liquid nitrogen to "shrink" them....
Click to expand...
Seen that done with pump shafts when pressing gears on 'em.
FWIW, The Yukon seals I have measure 2.690" diameter same as the SKF seal #15460 spec.
 
Short of pressing it in square with a puller system, not sure I have anything better.
 
Have been replacing those seals for years w/o any special tool, just using a large socket. Don't understand why you are having a problem.
 
Me too I'm 55 and have messed with Mopars since I was 10. I've changed these seals countless times with out the seal driver. After #2 failure I bough a seal driver and still messed it up.
 
when seal is installed properly into housing --- to the seal seat -- from face of seal to housing flange should measure 1-11/16 inches +/- 1/16 inch --if not lock collar for the axle bearing will not clear the seal ,,,, causing leaks and axle install will be affected ( not seating into housing properly )
 
just did them in our dart. using the proper tool it wasn't bad. slow and steady.. i pack the rear of the seal to keep the spring from popping out..
 
2 reasons a seal wont fit:
A: the hole is buggered up
2: Wrong seal
 
I too had trouble putting in the seal. The radius on the edge of the large socket would cave in the seal a little. So I took a giant 1/4'' thick flat washer , cut the outside diameter down to fit the axle hole, and put it between the socket and the seal. It worked, but still required a lot of force to get it started. Then easier. ------ The seals are made larger than necessary. Had a similar problem with a crank seal in an aluminum timing cover on a 318.
 
I picked up another seal yesterday Timken part # 8695-S it measured 2.690 So I put it in the freezer overnight it did shrink a little maybe 2.685 but I don't feel it will be enough to solve my issue. I'll try a flap wheel inside the tube but I can't see any flaws or burrs inside the housing. Thanks to all of you trying to help. This site is the best.
 
RON REAGLE said:
I noticed some gear oil seepage on the rear tire and pulled the axle to replace the seal.
Click to expand...

There is an outer seal (oil seal in the FSM pic below) that goes between the retainer plate and the bearing, like a thinwall version of the inner seal. The part that blows about them is you have to replace bearings to change them.

202257-e6fc669d226f7fb4e610245225425fe0.jpg
 
I guess I should have mentioned there are aftermarket axles of some kind with the "green bearings" and no adjusters on the passenger side axle. I bought the car "as is" and there's a lot of really nice parts on the car I'm just trying to fix all the little "bugs" while sitting idle waiting on this corona b.s. to be over. You guys STAY HEALTHY AND STAY SAFE!!!
 
Could the tube be twisted/bent?
Maybe take verniers to the outside to verify? All I can think of is it's going in slightly crooked.
 
The inners are rarely an issue. The outers leak the most. Never had an issue and use a MAC tool race and seal driver kit! Always pack my bearing's with grease prior to install.
 
I just today installed two National 8695S in a 8 3/4 today with a OTC seal/race installer and had no issues, went right in. Where are you buying the seals? Your paying to much if you have $50.00 in three seals. O' Rieleys sells them for $7.99 each.
 
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