6lb pump blowing out carb?
Even steel line is kinda tough and that's even if you have a tubing bender.
It takes a lot of time and patience to do a decent job.
Stainless is ruthless for a few reasons.:D
I started being involved in machinery mechanics when I was about 10 years old with my Father and his projects, so some of the stuff I learned from him.
Realise that this was 54 years ago, and far from the convenience of local stores for parts even if the money for those parts was there.
By the time I was 15 I had 5 vehicles of my own.
I didn't have a job other than going to school and the stuff the family needed, like splitting firewood and helping to keep the vehicles and equipment running.
I got the cars and trucks I had by walking around and asking about them when I saw them parked in someones back property or fields.
The only money I had was .25 cents a day for school lunch. (At the time that 25 cents would buy a gallon of gas for my 1958 Chrysler Windsor or the 46 Ford truck I drove.) or for my dirtbike.
Being the situation it was I had to learn to improvise, or how to make some part of the stuff I was working on work again with little to no resources financially.
This is where some of that "it works, but maybe not the best solution" attitude comes from.
I learned early on how to get things going again on little to no cost.
On the last subject about carb priming.
I run an electric pump, so I turn the key on to prime the carb if it's empty.:poke::D
I run 3/8 nylon 12 high pressure EFI fuel supply and Holley pump with a recirculating system return to the tank.
It keeps cooler fuel close to the carb supply but maintains about 7lbs of pressure using an orifice in the return line as a restriction instead of having a pressure regulator.
Nylon is WAY easier to run, but you have things to consider like attaching points and keeping the fuel line out of harms way and wrapping it with protective covering.
Now here's a tip for you.:D
Shop vac hose from Home Depot makes great defroster hose.
It looks good installed and a heat gun lets you shape it to stay where and how you want it to run.
AND they even come with adapters for the hoses which work great to use as reducers for the smaller of the hose connections on the heater box.
BTW, gas evaporates out of a fuel line in seconds if you blow straight air first.
The worst thing is varnish because it sticks the sand in the line and plugs it up, so it takes a bit more time, (and gas to rinse it out):D
That's what I did with our totally stock 72 Swinger because of this, and it's been 3-4 years now running great.
Look familiar?:D
Even steel line is kinda tough and that's even if you have a tubing bender.
It takes a lot of time and patience to do a decent job.
Stainless is ruthless for a few reasons.:D
I started being involved in machinery mechanics when I was about 10 years old with my Father and his projects, so some of the stuff I learned from him.
Realise that this was 54 years ago, and far from the convenience of local stores for parts even if the money for those parts was there.
By the time I was 15 I had 5 vehicles of my own.
I didn't have a job other than going to school and the stuff the family needed, like splitting firewood and helping to keep the vehicles and equipment running.
I got the cars and trucks I had by walking around and asking about them when I saw them parked in someones back property or fields.
The only money I had was .25 cents a day for school lunch. (At the time that 25 cents would buy a gallon of gas for my 1958 Chrysler Windsor or the 46 Ford truck I drove.) or for my dirtbike.
Being the situation it was I had to learn to improvise, or how to make some part of the stuff I was working on work again with little to no resources financially.
This is where some of that "it works, but maybe not the best solution" attitude comes from.
I learned early on how to get things going again on little to no cost.
On the last subject about carb priming.
I run an electric pump, so I turn the key on to prime the carb if it's empty.:poke::D
I run 3/8 nylon 12 high pressure EFI fuel supply and Holley pump with a recirculating system return to the tank.
It keeps cooler fuel close to the carb supply but maintains about 7lbs of pressure using an orifice in the return line as a restriction instead of having a pressure regulator.
Nylon is WAY easier to run, but you have things to consider like attaching points and keeping the fuel line out of harms way and wrapping it with protective covering.
Now here's a tip for you.:D
Shop vac hose from Home Depot makes great defroster hose.
It looks good installed and a heat gun lets you shape it to stay where and how you want it to run.
AND they even come with adapters for the hoses which work great to use as reducers for the smaller of the hose connections on the heater box.
BTW, gas evaporates out of a fuel line in seconds if you blow straight air first.
The worst thing is varnish because it sticks the sand in the line and plugs it up, so it takes a bit more time, (and gas to rinse it out):D
That's what I did with our totally stock 72 Swinger because of this, and it's been 3-4 years now running great.
Look familiar?:D
