#'s Matching 340 build

While I think that 3.65" stroke crank is very appealing it's just not going to happen. The customer is not really interested in all out power nor is he interested in a $10k+ bill as we discussed. A FAST type build is not in the cards and I wouldn't recommend a large cubic inch stroker with X castings for a '69 Dart on a good day.

When exhaust limited as in this case--smaller cubes are your friend. A larger cube engine moves more air and fuel which means the already restrictive exhaust becomes MORE restrictive which drives the power curve DOWN. A 416 or actually a 418 in this case with X heads and stock exhaust manifolds without MAX effort everything will peak at a mind blowing (<sarcasm) 5000rpm--maybe lower.

I will try my best to work within the customers criteria. The criteria is always time, budget, reliabilty, output. In this case I have a surplus of leeway in time and output. What this means is the customer has given me an abundance of time and isn't all that concerned with output. It is paramount that the engine is reliable/driveable and within the budget. (on no greater than 91 octane)

Where I'm caught is I can't NOT try to make as much power as possible within the above parameters.

Most of the allure of a 340 powered '69 4 spd Dart is the high RPM a 340 willingly achieved. A 5000 MAX rpm 400+ cube 340 does not measure up here in IMHO.

So having said all that the engine will be tested with headers on the dyno so we will never really know the results with manifolds as installed in the car. However, the engine will be built to produce well over 300HP @ 5800 rpm or higher and meet all other criteria. It's a pretty tall order when you consider:

Can't throw compression at it
Can't throw an aftermarket intake on it
Can't throw a big cam at it
Can't throw good heads on it
Can't throw headers on it (in the car)
Can't throw a Holley on it (always better than a Carter)
Can't throw a stroker crank in it

What I CAN do is:

Perform the most accurate and relevant machine work within my abilities
Utilize modern internal engine components when feasible
Nail the valve timing events
Execute the right cylinder head work

I could and am already leaning on FABO for more ideas. Thanks, J.Rob

Just port the heads and pick the cam that will assist in hurdling the exhaust manifold choke.
Intake matching and opening up the flange/plenum.

After reading many replies...it feels like some people are confusing your 2 threads, like this for the engine contest one.
You can be very streetable with a .500's lift cam or right around. Closing can be earlier with a roller and not sacrifice valve lift or trade off for more duration.
But not absolutely necessary just easier.

When comparing to some builds I've done and seen, you'll have no problem building 360-370hp in those parameters.