Well darn

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BWDart

BWDart

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Got my lifters off the work bench to put in 360 and the box some how got wet and rusted the bottoms of all the brand new lifters! Guess next time I'll store them better.
 
clean up
people usually pay extra for oil pockets
just do not sand on a flat plate
keep the curve
you could use rust remover first
and BVVC schotchbrigh
some polish their lifters first anyway
pics?
 
I would throw them away. Do you really want to take your engine back apart because a cam lobe went flat? That does suck though.
 
Wyrmrider said:
clean up
people usually pay extra for oil pockets
just do not sand on a flat plate
keep the curve
you could use rust remover first
and BVVC schotchbrigh
some polish their lifters first anyway
pics?
Click to expand...
You do what you want. Only if You are broke or a cheapskate. Lifters need to be perfect or they won't rotate in the bores and the worst place to have rust is on the bottoms where they contact the cam. Nope, I vote for new ones. I wouldn't take the chance to flatten a lobe and ruin a cam or engine.
 
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I would buy new ones. But I did get to thinking about some of the things that I did back in the day with parts like that. Mostly due I'm sure to being broke, and also just not knowing any better at the time. We would reuse old parts, make stuff fit/work, and never check up. Guess I had a rabbit's foot in my pocket as most things seemed to work and hold up pretty well. LOL
 
sell them to someone who doesn't care about there engine. AKA uses nitrous hahahaha
 
Hydraulic? Solid? Spring rates? Wire wheel ‘em, drop ‘em in, and slap her on the ***.
 
I think he already made up his mind and must have the money to buy new ones. You can’t go wrong with the decision he is making. Sometimes our learning experience cost us a few buck, sometimes big bucks. Goodluck with your build and have fun.
 
Lifter material is pretty hard, wonder if it was just patina that would wipe off? Easiest thing to do to clean them is to mount them in a 1" chuck on a drill press and spin em with a piece of 1000 grit on your finger. Press it against one half of the face and let it clean the rust while maintaining the 70" radius crown. Should not remove any material with light pressure and that hard face metal.
 
BWDart said:
These lifters were rusted to the point of major pitting goin to the scrap metal pile
Click to expand...
Remove the plungers and check valves. You never know when youll need to change one out if you buy the same lifters and you develop a tick.
BWDart said:
These lifters were rusted to the point of major pitting goin to the scrap metal pile
Click to expand...
 
if they are scary bad just reface them
with a fine stone and faced wheel they will as good as new or better
are these hylift johnson?
if offshore pitch them in any case
 
j par said:
A cam grinder can resurface them cheap..
Click to expand...
Its about $5 a lifter online ($80 a set...really?) , but if you can take them to a place, they may do it for less. There is a classic import shop here in So. Cal that will do it for $1 a pop but usually do older N/A Volvo and Porsche lifters. Oregon Cams does them (solid slants) too.
 
pishta said:
Its about $5 a lifter online ($80 a set...really?) , but if you can take them to a place, they may do it for less. There is a classic import shop here in So. Cal that will do it for $1 a pop but usually do older N/A Volvo and Porsche lifters. Oregon Cams does them (solid slants) too.
Click to expand...
I reckon it would probably depend on how expensive the lifters were in the first place.. Oregon cam (in Vancouver Washington) it's just a short 10-15 minute drive away and I enjoy talking to Ken the owner.. nice old school cat...
 
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