1st Time Engine Rebuild.... Installing Distributor
Just for drill, how to use a piston stop. This is to check and make certain that the timing marks are correct
Of the subject, here is the stop I made for SB V8's way back in the 70's. I still have it.
you will have to buy or build an appropriate one for a slant, all the Summit/ Jegs etc sell them
Remove battery ground and devise a way to turn the engine. Remove the plugs to help this. Make certain no1 plug is "down a ways" and insert the stop. Rotate the engine in either direction until it stops against the device. Using whatever means, masking tape, etc, make a temporary mark on the balancer below TDC on the pointer/ timing tab
Now rotate the engine in the opposite direction until it once again stops. Make a second mark. True TDC is halfway between the temporary marks, and if the original is accurate, that is where it will be
You are just trying to stop the piston "somewhere" on the way up. Exactly where is not really important, but you don't want the stop device to be so short that the rod/ piston is in danger of "levering" over the top. You want it 'down' some
Again I'm not expert on slants, so have no advice on how long the plunger should be This is a "trial and error" deal on unfamiliar engines.
Just for drill, how to use a piston stop. This is to check and make certain that the timing marks are correct
Of the subject, here is the stop I made for SB V8's way back in the 70's. I still have it.
you will have to buy or build an appropriate one for a slant, all the Summit/ Jegs etc sell them
Remove battery ground and devise a way to turn the engine. Remove the plugs to help this. Make certain no1 plug is "down a ways" and insert the stop. Rotate the engine in either direction until it stops against the device. Using whatever means, masking tape, etc, make a temporary mark on the balancer below TDC on the pointer/ timing tab
Now rotate the engine in the opposite direction until it once again stops. Make a second mark. True TDC is halfway between the temporary marks, and if the original is accurate, that is where it will be
You are just trying to stop the piston "somewhere" on the way up. Exactly where is not really important, but you don't want the stop device to be so short that the rod/ piston is in danger of "levering" over the top. You want it 'down' some
Again I'm not expert on slants, so have no advice on how long the plunger should be This is a "trial and error" deal on unfamiliar engines.
