Reverse cooling

Had never really thought about this, but your trying to put water in the top of the eng and force the air out the bottom.

So here is the fix
Get a vary long piece of leather strap and make it cross on the water pump aka turn water pump backward aka standard flow.
after you get the air out put standard belt on..........you are running a electric water pump.............. will it run backwards..........

How about installing a couple of valve so that you can switch the flow from standard flow and then switch back after you get all the air out...........

You outta be able to just reverse the polarity on a dc motor. It might help. One of the problems that plagued me was cavitation. Too many nooks and crannies for air to tuck back in.

Dana said:

Getting all the air out is not that easy.

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It is if you find the high spot, jack the car up so the heads are at an angle, you might need to put them in the head. Jack up the back, put the air bleeds in the back of the heads.

Yeah, sounds easy

Make a 90* adap for the rad fill. Hang the front of the car from the rafters and fill it up. Air will always go up.

Your upper an 90s are likely holding air, no matter how high you jack the front end, they'll never burp. If those need to stay 90 degrees, I'd add bleeds to those connections or try and bleed by cracking those connections.

A higher pressure Rad cap will likely increase its "puking" because the difference between boiling at 12-18psi will be large and so the hot coolant goes from hot liquid to steam as soon as it gets past the rad cap spring. A high pressure cap helps prevent steam pockets in a std cooling system, but a well working reverse flown system should operate well with less pressure (6-8 psi, I would guess), especially if you're targeting less than 200deg F cyl head (coolant) temps.

With no flow restriction from the heads to the bottom of the rad, any hot spots or boiling are bound to try and lift the whole radiator capacity out of the cap when your pump is shut down. A standard system has a thermostat to overcome first and the hot water returns to the top of the rad, not the bottom, and so steam/bubbles have an easier time finding its way out. With your hot going to the bottom (I think?) that steam pressure tries to push the while rad out on its way to the cap..

Just my $.02, but I've admittedly no experience with reverse cooling..

BB Mopar engines aren't designed for reverse cooling so you're fighting a loosing battle from day one. If you're interested in making more power then reverse cooling is just a time sink. Spend your time working on the intake manifold or cylinder heads and you'll have more to show for it.

On your engine all you need to do is reverse the direction of the hoses and you'll be back to conventional cooling. Try that and see if your problem goes away. If it does you have your answer.

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AndyF said:

BB Mopar engines aren't designed for reverse cooling so you're fighting a loosing battle from day one. If you're interested in making more power then reverse cooling is just a time sink. Spend your time working on the intake manifold or cylinder heads and you'll have more to show for it.

On your engine all you need to do is reverse the direction of the hoses and you'll be back to conventional cooling. Try that and see if your problem goes away. If it does you have your answer.

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Thank you Andy F. I was hoping you would chime in.