Ignition problems.
Let's start with the simple stuff
1....First there may be a wiring problem in the car, and won't matter what sort of ignition you hook to "the problem." You may or may not have created this problem. It might be as simple as the you wiggled say, a shakey bulkhead connector terminal and now it's not making contact
2....If you don't have the wiring completely dressed, tear enough of it apart that you can "hot wire" it direct to the battery and maybe eliminate other areas
3....Was there actually anything wrong with the breaker points setup? Do you still have it? If nothing else, you could swap that back in until you get a baseline/ get the carb settled down and go from there
4....The 4 or 6 pin HEI work great, generally, and are simple. Except for the ballast resistor, the HEI really (I know it does not appear so) wires up pretty much just like the Mopar breakerless.
Here is a good simple diagram one of the guys here came up with
Now, and this is IMPORTANT!!! On a stock system, either points or Mopar breakerless, the "ignition run" (IGN1) line goes DEAD during cranking by design. The ONLY ignition power to the system comes from the bypass circuit in the key switch, which is normally brown (IGN2) and goes from the switch out to the coil+ side of the ballast
So start by making a couple of tests.
1....Turn key to run, clip your meter to coil+ and ground. Voltage should be roughly 8-10V not much lower and not much higher
2....Turn key to "start" and read meter while cranking. Meter should read "same as battery" or pretty close, and at least 10.5V or more.
3...Make SURE nothing is connect to the coil + side of the ballast as it will load down running coil voltage. Also suspect you may have a bad tach if you have one connected
Let's start with the simple stuff
1....First there may be a wiring problem in the car, and won't matter what sort of ignition you hook to "the problem." You may or may not have created this problem. It might be as simple as the you wiggled say, a shakey bulkhead connector terminal and now it's not making contact
2....If you don't have the wiring completely dressed, tear enough of it apart that you can "hot wire" it direct to the battery and maybe eliminate other areas
3....Was there actually anything wrong with the breaker points setup? Do you still have it? If nothing else, you could swap that back in until you get a baseline/ get the carb settled down and go from there
4....The 4 or 6 pin HEI work great, generally, and are simple. Except for the ballast resistor, the HEI really (I know it does not appear so) wires up pretty much just like the Mopar breakerless.
Here is a good simple diagram one of the guys here came up with
Now, and this is IMPORTANT!!! On a stock system, either points or Mopar breakerless, the "ignition run" (IGN1) line goes DEAD during cranking by design. The ONLY ignition power to the system comes from the bypass circuit in the key switch, which is normally brown (IGN2) and goes from the switch out to the coil+ side of the ballast
So start by making a couple of tests.
1....Turn key to run, clip your meter to coil+ and ground. Voltage should be roughly 8-10V not much lower and not much higher
2....Turn key to "start" and read meter while cranking. Meter should read "same as battery" or pretty close, and at least 10.5V or more.
3...Make SURE nothing is connect to the coil + side of the ballast as it will load down running coil voltage. Also suspect you may have a bad tach if you have one connected