Keep hearing about frame twist with 440s

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Every model will be a little different. Sometimes the parking brake line will need to be routed. 2 x 3 x 3/16 (or so thick) inch tubing welded in. I use a small piece of flat stock welded to the flat end.
This subject should show a lot of info if the OP does a search. Basically I look at the sub frame connectors as two main types, both welded. One goes into the floor pan and all is welded pan and all. The other the connector will sit just below the pan. Like said, there an be a little difference between car models somewhat.
When a person adds all the various stiffening pieces he changes the car quite a bit. The next owner may not care for such. Seems my cars always eventually find a new home.
 
While Uncle Tony definitely has some knowledge on other aspects of these cars, he’s just proving further that he’s making it up as he’s going along on chassis reinforcement and handling. He’s out of his depth if he’s not talking about driving in a straight line.

Handling control is about precision and predictability. If your chassis sucks up all of your inputs and reactions with flex, you can’t be precise. If you can’t predict exactly how the chassis will react to a given input, you can’t control the car as well.

Yes, there’s a balance. If the chassis is rock hard and transmits every bit of chatter and noise to the driver then it will be more difficult to control. But here’s the thing, that’s not all chassis. A lot of that is how your suspension is set up, how your alignment is set, whether or not you’re in oversteer or understeer, etc. And the chassis isn’t even the biggest component of some of that set up.

And let’s face it, adding subframe connectors doesn’t make these cars all that stiff. I have a bunch of chassis stiffening on my car- torque boxes, subframe connectors, j-bars (forward chassis reinforcement), a tubular radiator support brace, etc. Yes, my car is much stiffer than it was from the factory. But it’s not anywhere near as stiff as a car with a full cage. Or even a high end modern performance car.

Yeah, the average driver would think an F1 car is insanely hard to control. But subframe connectors don’t make these cars anywhere near that stiff. Even the level of chassis reinforcement that my car has, which is more than a lot of these cars have, doesn’t make it overly stiff. If anything it still has more flex than would be ideal, even for a street car. Plus it’s a moving target- if you have 15” rims with crappy compound tires you don’t need as much chassis reinforcement, you’re not putting as much force to the chassis. If you’re running soft compound 275’s on all 4 corners even with a significant amount of reinforcement you’ll still get flex because you’re transmitting a lot more force.

I know you know a lot...But no. Uncle Tony isn’t making it up as he goes along. I may have misrepresented his comments. If you’re interested, check out the video.

Don’t get me wrong. I don’t think that a more flexible chassis is better, at least not for the kind of driving that I enjoy. That said, some compliance in the system can absolutely make a car more forgiving and it doesn’t mean that the flex will be unpredictable. A lot of that comes from the driver knowing the car. Chassis flex doesn’t tend to present like slop from worn ball joints or a worn track bar bushings on a solid front axle vehicle that can surprise you (usually not in a good way).

On most roads in the USA these days when the rich people own everything and don’t pay taxes (eff you, Jeff Bezos) the roads are going to hell. Our infrastructure is crumbling everywhere. A stretch of road without potholes, cracks, cheap patch jobs, etc is pretty rare in most parts of the country. As a result, you could bring the 2019 SCCA Solo2 champion modified whatever car out to some local rural back roads and it might get dusted by the same driver in a bone stock Miata- some actual suspension travel and compliance in the system from shocks chassis flex, etc. might be a huge advantage depending on the surface where none of that is helpful in the controlled environment of a sanctioned autocross lot. Is it better if you can get all of that compliance from the suspension? I would say yes as someone who plans to keep cars for decades but flex can be engineered to be part of the system, not unlike the wings on any passenger plane.

As for Tony’s example of maintaining control on the drag strip in car with drag tires, probably no oil in the front shocks, slant 6 sway bars, etc; I can at least imagine that extra slop of a non-reinforced chassis might give you a tiny bit more of a warning and save you from smacking the wall. I haven’t been horsing around with muscle cars since the late 70s like Uncle Tony so I’m not able to report on my own experiences but intuitively, that sounds plausible.
 
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I know you know a lot...But no. Uncle Tony isn’t making it up as he goes along. I may have misrepresented his comments. If you’re interested, check out the video.

Don’t get me wrong. I don’t think that a more flexible chassis is better, at least not for the kind of driving that I enjoy. That said, some compliance in the system can absolutely make a car more forgiving and it doesn’t mean that the flex will be unpredictable. A lot of that comes from the driver knowing the car. Chassis flex doesn’t tend to present like slop from worn ball joints or a worn track bar bushings on a solid front axle vehicle that can surprise you (usually not in a good way).

On most roads in the USA these days when the rich people own everything and don’t pay taxes (eff you, Jeff Bezos) the roads are going to hell. Our infrastructure is crumbling everywhere. A stretch of road without potholes, cracks, cheap patch jobs, etc is pretty rare in most parts of the country. As a result, you could bring the 2019 SCCA Solo2 champion modified whatever car out to some local rural back roads and it might get dusted by the same driver in a bone stock Miata- some actual suspension travel and compliance in the system from shocks chassis flex, etc. might be a huge advantage depending on the surface where none of that is helpful in the controlled environment of a sanctioned autocross lot. Is it better if you can get all of that compliance from the suspension? I would say yes as someone who plans to keep cars for decades but flex can be engineered to be part of the system, not unlike the wings on any passenger plane.

As for Tony’s example of maintaining control on the drag strip in car with drag tires, probably no oil in the front shocks, slant 6 sway bars, etc; I can at least imagine that extra slop of a non-reinforced chassis might give you a tiny bit more of a warning and save you from smacking the wall. I haven’t been horsing around with muscle cars since the late 70s like Uncle Tony so I’m not able to report on my own experiences but intuitively, that sounds plausible.

I’ve seen Tony’s first video on chassis reinforcement. It was completely wrong. Not a little wrong, not wrong for some applications, but a complete misrepresentation of physics, metallurgy, engineering and science.

Sure, a lot of what he says “sounds intuitive”. That’s not science. He has a lot of experience, that’s true. But anecdotal evidence does not change the science. If what “sounds intuitive” was reality anybody off the street could design airplanes and bridges and everything else. That’s not how it works.

Your example of back roads isn’t accurate. The “SCCA 2019 Solo2 champion” isn’t at a disadvantage because the chassis is too stiff. It’s at a disadvantage because it’s suspension is set up for a smooth road and super grippy tires. Dial back the suspension for a road tire and the stiff chassis isn’t a problem at all. That example has nothing to do with chassis stiffness and 100% to do with suspension tuning. Those are VERY different things, and you’re interchanging them. So does Tony. That’s not experience, that’s oversimplifying what’s actually happening so it sounds good on YouTube.

Even the drag race example is backward. “Extra slop” doesn’t give you more warning, it gives you LESS. Your chassis gets more out of shape before you notice it. And when you do react your inputs are lost into that slop. That’s lag time where your chassis is stepping out further. That’s not helping you recover, it’s fighting your recovery.

Yes, chassis flex is different than a worn out ball joint. And it is somewhat predictable, but that doesn’t mean it’s good. If your flexible chassis has loaded up in a left hand corner and you have to immediately turn right, well, that’s stored energy in your chassis that’s fighting your input for the upcoming right hand corner. If it unloads quickly, you’re toast.

Like I said, Tony knows a lot, and he’s definitely an authority in a lot of things. But he’s completely out of his depth on chassis reinforcement, and he’s putting out bad information.
 
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Sure, a lot of what he says “sounds intuitive”. That’s not science. He has a lot of experience, that’s true. But anecdotal evidence does not change the science. If what “sounds intuitive” was reality anybody off the street could design airplanes and bridges and everything else. That’s not how it works..

I don't expect that you're following all of my posts but please note that I'm trying to play devil's advocate on this debate and to entertain Tony's suggestion. My first post in this thread, I stated that I'd take as much stiffness as I could get in a chassis...and this is because I am weary of metal fatigue and because I know what changes I can make to the suspension and to affect handling where the inherent (and possibly evolving) variables introduced by a an overly flexible structure are not preferable, IMO. Honestly, that's my intuition. I don't have the resources nor time to dynamically measure contact patch changes beyond chalk line over the sidewall of the tire...and that is telling more about tire pressure than suspension/chassis induced contact patch changes.

How have you used science back up your conclusions?
What hypothesis were you testing? What were you measuring? How did you control the variables? How did these measurements translate into real world performance data? What kind of real world performance were you measuring? Was your hypothesis valid?

I'm not doubting that you have done some actual science here.
Otherwise, your evidence is just anecdotal too, no?

... That example has nothing to do with chassis stiffness and 100% to do with suspension tuning. Those are VERY different things, and you’re interchanging them. So does Tony. That’s not experience, that’s oversimplifying what’s actually happening so it sounds good on YouTube.

No. The behavior of the chassis is absolutely part of the dynamic suspension system. If you're imagining that you can just stiffen up a chassis to eliminate the variable, good luck. It would take half a Plymouth Scamp worth of metal reinforcement to eliminate chassis flex to the point where it was negligible. :D

The flex was almost certainly engineered into the Mopar unibody platforms. Unless someone knows otherwise, the pennies worth of sheet metal that they saved by not connecting the front and rear subframes most likely does not explain why they didn't connect them, meaning that it was part of the design...a design which was meant to ride comfortably and perform safely and predictably, which it did very well.

...
Like I said, Tony knows a lot, and he’s definitely an authority in a lot of things. But he’s completely out of his depth on chassis reinforcement, and he’s putting out bad information.

Well, shame on anyone who just takes the word of any internet source without thinking critically. I certainly don't think Tony is right about everything but he has earned my time and attention. As far as anecdotal evidence goes, his is worth listening to, IMO.
 
The first unibody construction was way back about what 1920 something?????
Will any car manufacturer do anything to save a nickel? yes, Take GM good example of doing what is barely adequate to save a $
Tie the frame rails and pick that car up with a floor jack vs not tied. Ever see a difference?
I will just tie the frames and not loose any sleep.
 
I don't expect that you're following all of my posts but please note that I'm trying to play devil's advocate on this debate and to entertain Tony's suggestion. My first post in this thread, I stated that I'd take as much stiffness as I could get in a chassis...and this is because I am weary of metal fatigue and because I know what changes I can make to the suspension and to affect handling where the inherent (and possibly evolving) variables introduced by a an overly flexible structure are not preferable, IMO. Honestly, that's my intuition. I don't have the resources nor time to dynamically measure contact patch changes beyond chalk line over the sidewall of the tire...and that is telling more about tire pressure than suspension/chassis induced contact patch changes.

How have you used science back up your conclusions?
What hypothesis were you testing? What were you measuring? How did you control the variables? How did these measurements translate into real world performance data? What kind of real world performance were you measuring? Was your hypothesis valid?

I'm not doubting that you have done some actual science here.
Otherwise, your evidence is just anecdotal too, no?



No. The behavior of the chassis is absolutely part of the dynamic suspension system. If you're imagining that you can just stiffen up a chassis to eliminate the variable, good luck. It would take half a Plymouth Scamp worth of metal reinforcement to eliminate chassis flex to the point where it was negligible. :D

The flex was almost certainly engineered into the Mopar unibody platforms. Unless someone knows otherwise, the pennies worth of sheet metal that they saved by not connecting the front and rear subframes most likely does not explain why they didn't connect them, meaning that it was part of the design...a design which was meant to ride comfortably and perform safely and predictably, which it did very well.



Well, shame on anyone who just takes the word of any internet source without thinking critically. I certainly don't think Tony is right about everything but he has earned my time and attention. As far as anecdotal evidence goes, his is worth listening to, IMO.

Well, on the subject of A-body chassis stiffness and reinforcement pretty much everyones evidence is anecdotal. I haven't seen any FEA models, and the closest I've seen to a legitimate experiment was run by XV probably a decade ago where they took some measurements with defined loads and compared before and after adding some of their chassis components. And even their experiment was pretty basic, and wouldn't necessarily tell you anything about how that would change real world performance or how the chassis would hold up over time. Quite frankly no one that has the capabilities to do that kind of all-encompassing testing cares about how an A-body would perform. The real racers build cages because their classes require it, those of us that run on the street are left to figure it out on our own.

There are a lot of people with experience, but of course they fall on different opinions. It's pretty easy to find people that have added big blocks and sticky tires and have done things like pop rear windows, form cracks at the quarter seams and before Nader pins even pop doors open, there's a picture of that right here in this thread. But those are anecdotal examples, just like the usual "I jacked my car up and it bent less" story. Which is common and still true, but still doesn't tell you about real world performance.

As far as the science that I apply, yeah, I have a degree in engineering and I built chassis' and did FEA analysis as part of FSAE teams in college. I know the science behind these chassis, even a lot of what was considered when these cars were built. And that's the biggest mistake most people make, they assume the factory did the best thing. Well, two things about that. First, they did the cheapest thing they could get away with, and only designed these cars to last about 10 years or 100k miles at BEST. Second, they were building a chassis for the time, which meant bias ply tires, super soft suspension for comfort that was the selling point of a lot of stuff in the 70's, and safety standards that would make most modern engineers shudder because that's just what they knew at the time.

And that's how I apply my training. These cars had very little tire grip when they were built, and bias plys have very stiff sidewalls. So the chassis and the suspension were very soft and flexible. This is my opinion, but they even missed the mark on how soft the suspension was, right from the factory, even for bias plys. When you add those considerations to results of what happens when you add weight and power - cracked chassis points, flexing so much window pop out, that sort of thing, then it's the logical conclusion that the chassis is way too flexible when you start adding power, weight, and tire grip. Tony misses here because he only considers stress fractures from an overly stiff chassis, which definitely can happen if a chassis is too stiff at certain points and the material can't flex enough to distribute the load. But that's not what these cars are, they're too flexible and you don't need an FEA to figure that out. These cars crack because of overwork, they work harden from flexing too much. To someone with no education or training those cracks look the same, even though there are two completely separate causes on opposite ends of the spectrum.

No, you can't ever take chassis flex completely off the table. But that's not what your SCCA champion vs a stock miata on the back roads example was. Yes, the SCCA car still has flex. Probably a lot less than a stock Miata. But you conjectured the stocker might do better because of road conditions. And hell, it might. But that performance isn't because of the chassis at all. It's because of how the suspension is set up. The SCCA car would win handily with the suspension set up for the right tires and road conditions with the same chassis. Compare a NASCAR to a Trophy Truck. Both chassis are VERY stiff- the trophy truck does not have a flexible chassis for the rough terrain. The NASCAR doesn't get stuck 100 feet off the line at the BAJA 1000 because its chassis is too stiff. And the Trophy Truck doesn't roll over in turn one on the banked oval because of its chassis. That's suspension set up, and so is the SCCA champ vs a stocker on a bumpy back road.

Nascar
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trophy truck
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Yeah, my evidence is pretty much all anecdotal. I've put 70k miles on my Challenger with no chassis reinforcement. When it had hockey pucks in 215/60/15 and 235/60/15's on it with 1.12" torsion bars and XHD's out back the chassis flex wasn't that terrible and it was a RUSTY beast. 100% tire limited and set up too stiff for the tires I was running. When I put 275/40/17's on there pushing hard on the winding mountain roads I like to drive would induce some down right spooky chassis flex, you could literally feel the chassis twisting and flexing and that is NOT a good feeling. It was worse than most because it had even more rust than I thought. I don't get that with my Duster and all of it's chassis reinforcement, even though the 275/35/18's and 295/35/18's I run are even grippier than what I ran on my Challenger, my springs are stiffer and I've probably doubled the horsepower. I still have a decent amount of suspension travel because of how I've set up my suspension, and it does well on back roads. Even with 1.12" bars it would probably still be too soft for track tires on a nice smooth road course. And the same goes for the chassis, I'd need a cage if I really wanted it to be consistent at high speed on longer tracks with better tires. How will all that hold up in 10 years? I don't know. But I know without any chassis reinforcement I'll start popping spot welds and showing up cracks, so, hopefully better than that.
 
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Sincerely, thanks for writing all of that up. I always take your perspective and opinions seriously and every time I've applied your advice, it has served me well.

Please don't take this the wrong way but this explains pretty much the whole "debate" here:

...As far as the science that I apply, yeah, I have a degree in engineering and I built chassis' and did FEA analysis as part of FSAE teams in college. I know the science behind these chassis, even a lot of what was considered when these cars were built.

No doubt, the time that you've spent studying and working on this stuff is incredibly valuable. I give you all the credit for that...that said, I work closely with aerospace engineers of various disciplines and it's part of my daily life to listen to smart people who believe that there's only one possible correct answer, they're the only one who knows it. Christ, that seems like an exhausting way to view the world.

When I guy like Uncle Tony comes along who is totally undisciplined but likable, charismatic, funny, talented and smart as a damn whip, it MUST chap the asses of people with an engineering mindset, especially when the guy gets results. Honestly, I get that.



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And that's the biggest mistake most people make, they assume the factory did the best thing. Well, two things about that. First, they did the cheapest thing they could get away with, and only designed these cars to last about 10 years or 100k miles at BEST. Second, they were building a chassis for the time, which meant bias ply tires, super soft suspension for comfort that was the selling point of a lot of stuff in the 70's, and safety standards that would make most modern engineers shudder because that's just what they knew at the time.
...

Ok so you're not reading my posts at all then.

...But that's not what your SCCA champion vs a stock miata on the back roads example was. Yes, the SCCA car still has flex. Probably a lot less than a stock Miata. But you conjectured the stocker might do better because of road conditions. And hell, it might. But that performance isn't because of the chassis at all. It's because of how the suspension is set up. The SCCA car would win handily with the suspension set up for the right tires and road conditions with the same chassis. ...
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I agree with all of that...I guess I failed to adequately stress my emphasis in that comment. The stock street driven sports car could be quicker than a fully modified autocross car in some conditions despite having vastly more chassis flex, depending on conditions. I didn't mean to say that it would be quicker directly because of the flex but it's part of a system that has a degree of compliance that might prove to be advantageous. All things being equal, a stiffer stock suspension car would feel better to drive but saying that it would necessarily be quicker would demand some actual data.

A car like a Miata, especially the NA gen cars (model years 1990-1997) have immediately obvious amounts of chassis flex and cowl shake in stock form, even on stock 14" all season tires. They were also designed to be a total blast to drive and surprisingly quick despite their low power, low grip. They're also quick in some part because of their compliance. It makes them approachable and it makes a driver more willing/able to push the limits. Chassis flex is just one part of a "perfect for what it is" package. Trying to isolate that one variable becomes an exercise in hypotheticals that probably is a bit far off the rails. Anyway, that's my opinion based on my own experiences in driving many tens of thousands of miles in stock and modified Miatas and a dozen or so autocross events in these cars.

The first mods that I did to my Miatas was to add chassis bracing. The shock tower bracing in particular added a sense of immediacy to the steering input and notably reduced the cowl shake. I liked it better but it didn't make me any faster after the mod.

Yeah, my evidence is pretty much all anecdotal.
....

All of that anecdotal experience is valuable and IMO, valid. But if you really think that yours is more valid than the experience of a guy like Uncle Tony, I don't know what to tell you.

If he says that a drag car with stock-like chassis flex is easier to drive and less likely to bite you and have a sudden and dramatic wall collision "incident," I have to hear him out on that too.
 
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Sincerely, thanks for writing all of that up. I always take your perspective and opinions seriously and every time I've applied your advice, it has served me well.

Please don't take this the wrong way but this explains pretty much the whole "debate" here:
No doubt, the time that you've spent studying and working on this stuff is incredibly valuable. I give you all the credit for that...that said, I work closely with aerospace engineers of various disciplines and it's part of my daily life to listen to smart people who believe that there's only one possible correct answer, they're the only one who knows it. Christ, that seems like an exhausting way to view the world.

When I guy like Uncle Tony comes along who is totally undisciplined but likable, charismatic, funny, talented and smart as a damn whip, it MUST chap the asses of people with an engineering mindset, especially when the guy gets results. Honestly, I get that.

Ok so you're not reading my posts at all then.

I agree with all of that...I guess I failed to adequately stress my emphasis in that comment. The stock street driven sports car could be quicker than a fully modified autocross car in some conditions despite having vastly more chassis flex, depending on conditions. I didn't mean to say that it would be quicker directly because of the flex but it's part of a system that has a degree of compliance that might prove to be advantageous. All things being equal, a stiffer stock suspension car would feel better to drive but saying that it would necessarily be quicker would demand some actual data.

A car like a Miata, especially the NA gen cars (model years 1990-1997) have immediately obvious amounts of chassis flex and cowl shake in stock form, even on stock 14" all season tires. They were also designed to be a total blast to drive and surprisingly quick despite their low power, low grip. They're also quick in some part because of their compliance. It makes them approachable and it makes a driver more willing/able to push the limits. Chassis flex is just one part of a "perfect for what it is" package. Trying to isolate that one variable becomes an exercise in hypotheticals that probably is a bit far off the rails. Anyway, that's my opinion based on my own experiences in driving many tens of thousands of miles in stock and modified Miatas and a dozen or so autocross events in these cars.

The first mods that I did to my Miatas was to add chassis bracing. The shock tower bracing in particular added a sense of immediacy to the steering input and notably reduced the cowl shake. I liked it better but it didn't make me any faster after the mod.

All of that anecdotal experience is valuable and IMO, valid. But if you really think that yours is more valid than the experience of a guy like Uncle Tony, I don't know what to tell you.

If he says that a drag car with stock-like chassis flex is easier to drive and less likely to bite you and have a sudden and dramatic wall collision "incident," I have to hear him out on that too.

Any "smart person" that thinks there's only one possible answer isn't all that smart. Get far enough into studying mathematics and even all the math has multiple possible solutions. Not all of them are valid, and that's why it takes a years of study and application to know what the hell you're talking about.

I certainly don't have all the answers, and I've definitely been wrong before. Maybe I'm not "likable, charismatic and funny", but exactly none of those things change the science. Most of the problems in this world right now are because people would rather listen to the charismatic guy than the one that actually knows some things.

I grew up in a shop long before I went to engineering school. I've worked around plenty of guys with tons of experience and little formal education. And I've worked around guys with tons of formal education and little hands on experience. Both of those situations have their issues. If you haven't worked out in the real world, it's hard to know what assumptions you can make in the lab and actually come up with science that has a real world application. Just because it works best in a FEA model doesn't always mean you can actually build it like you modeled it. And if you can't build it like you modeled it, well, it's not much good is it?

On the flip side, with 40 or 50 years of trial and error you can be darn sure that you can stumble on to what works best given a certain set of circumstances. But if you only know that something does work, without knowing WHY it works, you end up thinking that's the solution for everything all the time. And when you end up in a situation outside your specific experience, well, you're useless. Worse than useless actually, because you think you have the answer but can't understand why it doesn't apply this time around. See that more than a little on this board.

Tony has the science dead wrong. He may have some solutions that work based on his experience, but he can't even accurately explain why they work. That makes his experience pretty limited in its application. And yet, he feels the need to try to expand his niche experience into topics where it just doesn't apply, and in doing so is putting out a lot of bad information. Maybe in a "likable, charismatic and funny" way, but he's still completely wrong about most of his chassis advice. Maybe he found what works best for him, but you'd better be careful applying it to anything else. I know and have worked with guys that have more experience than Tony does. Anybody can put up a YouTube channel, and thousands of followers doesn't mean you're right.

And no, I'm not reading every post you put on the board. I already spend too much time here, I can't keep up with every post that every person makes and keep them straight with their builds. And on that note, none of this is really adding to this thread anymore.
 
Most of little guys we listen to advice and shift thru it all and try to see what works for us. We are not big time drag racers, road racers, engine builders, we are , just little fish in a bigger pond. I appreciate anyone with more knowledge that takes the time to explain their theory. I realize not everyone's knowledge is based on pure science but many times just hands on experience which is not always 100% accurate. I look listen, and shift thru!
Ole Tony used to be here on FABO and has sold many parts to needed projects are fair prices. Yes he has that personality that draws friends. He may not be 100 % right 100 of the time, but he still as more experience and knowledge than many, many of us little fishes.
 
yes , it will twist the car . I did it with a 273 , 4 speed . Is it that you don't want to install sub-frame connectors ? Why ? Too expensive ? $40.00 is too expensive ? I was told by a chassis builder that frame connectors don't do anything . Haha ! this same chassis builder told me a 6pt roll bar won't stiffen a chassis . Haha ! Next time your door won't open after a blast , let me know .
 
Tony has the science dead wrong. He may have some solutions that work based on his experience, but he can't even accurately explain why they work. That makes his experience pretty limited in its application. And yet, he feels the need to try to expand his niche experience into topics where it just doesn't apply, and in doing so is putting out a lot of bad information. Maybe in a "likable, charismatic and funny" way, but he's still completely wrong about most of his chassis advice. Maybe he found what works best for him, but you'd better be careful applying it to anything else. I know and have worked with guys that have more experience than Tony does. Anybody can put up a YouTube channel, and thousands of followers doesn't mean you're right. .

Ok...You talked out of both sides of your mouth through that whole post but this clinched it. Come on, man. I have no dog in this fight so I'll just let it go.
I certainly don't think Uncle Tony's Garage is the one and only source of information. I doubt anyone does. He doesn't need me to defend him.

He has earned enough credibility that when he makes a claim, it's worth hearing and considering, even more so when this claim is contradictory to what we assume we already know. That's all I'm saying.

And no, I'm not reading every post you put on the board. I already spend too much time here, I can't keep up with every post that every person makes and keep them straight with their builds. And on that note, none of this is really adding to this thread anymore.

You only have time to lecture then? Well you may want to check your math since you almost certainly spent more time repeating more or less exactly what I wrote earlier in the thread than you would have spent reading it. ;)

Again, all of the information that you share on the forum is appreciated...at least it is by me. Thanks...and I hope you don't stop.

So here's one for you. You can take or leave the suggestion: consider approaching other people's ideas with a bit of humility once in a while. Before you say "but I do"...no, you don't. You're bound to learn something and people are a lot more likely to hear you when they sense that you hear and respect them.

Again, take it or leave it.
 
Most of little guys we listen to advice and shift thru it all and try to see what works for us. We are not big time drag racers, road racers, engine builders, we are , just little fish in a bigger pond. I appreciate anyone with more knowledge that takes the time to explain their theory. I realize not everyone's knowledge is based on pure science but many times just hands on experience which is not always 100% accurate. I look listen, and shift thru!
Ole Tony used to be here on FABO and has sold many parts to needed projects are fair prices. Yes he has that personality that draws friends. He may not be 100 % right 100 of the time, but he still as more experience and knowledge than many, many of us little fishes.

100% agreed. Most of us love cars and tinker with our cars because they make us happy. Getting it exactly right isn't a test of your worth as a human being.

Of course we want to seek out the best possible advice but it's way more fun to have an idea, trying it out and be wrong than it is to just follow someone else's instructions. That's what hotrodding is all about, IMO.
 
Should the connectors and torque boxes be added with no Powertrain or with the slant six still in there?
 
I figured it should have weight on it based on what I know about suspension but I don’t know if it should have the weight of the 440 or the slant six. I want to say using the slant six weight is preferable but I really do not know.
 
I figure it can be like replacing floor pans, car needs to be sitting level other wise it can sit cocked eyed after the new pans are welded in! I admit after 35 yr playing with these things I never have had a rotisserie or lift. Wish I did.
But if on the rotisserie there in NO engine weight either, it is not being mashed down anywhere, so no doubt all would be good there.
 
I figured it should have weight on it based on what I know about suspension but I don’t know if it should have the weight of the 440 or the slant six. I want to say using the slant six weight is preferable but I really do not know.

The problem w/ this is , are the springs / strut rods and everything all settled/worn the same ?
Will it change later if you have to do something diff ??
I`d rather have the car leveled on jackstands and take the suspension out of it .
 
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