Chassis Guy/gals that understand SS Spring....Help!
Please explain that further. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yup Stinkbug look.
The front was 2 inch lower with my lard *** in it. and about a inch with out me in it.
Have cranked the driver side t- bar up a little bit more while waiting on responses.
I need to get it into the alignment shop this week end. Hoping the weather will allow me to.
So i need to get this nailed down because i'm not.....or don't want to change the ride height after the alignment is done.
For the first question, the clocking on the bars and the installation of the adjuster bolts. If you don't install the LCA's as per the factory instructions it is
sometimes possible to install the LCA's one hex flat off of what was originally intended. That results in a different adjuster setting, and can make a BIG difference in ride height because the angle on the LCA starts 60
° off of what it was intended to be. Basically it starts at the complete opposite end of its range of travel.
Now, that being said. If you have stock lower control arms and factory torsion bars it's not easy to install the LCA's a hex flat off. Typically that only becomes a possibility if you're using aftermarket torsion bars, which frequently have a different offset on the hex ends of the torsion bar than they did from the factory. Or alternatively if you're using tubular LCA's, because the tubular LCA's with their narrower profile don't hit the K-frame when they hang down free of the torsion bars, so more clocking positions of the LCA on the hex end of the torsion bar are possible. Even with tubular LCA's and aftermarket torsion bars one hex flat off on the clocking is pretty much all you can do. And with stock parts it's not even always possible. So it's really unlikely that clocking is the issue, more than likely your adjuster settings are different because of the cross weight from the difference in the rear springs.
Which brings us to the second one, the ride height. I'm not a drag race guy, but cars with SS springs weren't supposed to sit level. In the front or the back. The whole point of the SS springs was hooking the rear wheels, so the right rear is stiffer and higher to resist the torque reaction. That makes the front left lower. If you crank on one side or the other to try and level the front you'll end up altering the corner weights, which will change how the car hooks. Specific tuning stuff beyond that I'll leave to the drag race guys.