No problem, happy to help if I can.
If the other side is perfectly intact than that's great, you can use the other side to pull angles and measurements off of to get the damaged one back into the spot it needs to be. I'd mount the K frame up on something and then either level it or the other LCA pivot. That way you can pull measurements and get the repair work done.
I actually replaced my poly bushings with the Delrin ones on my Duster. The Delrin is self lubricating, so unlike the poly bushings it shouldn't need to be greased. The Delrin bushings are also more firm than poly, so, less deflection of the LCA than with the poly bushings. Although the poly is already much stiffer than the original rubber bushings. The Delrin bushings also replace the outer shell, which can be an issue with the poly bushings. I've run the Energy Suspension poly LCA bushings in the past, and they re-use the original outer bushing shell. Which makes installing the poly bushings pretty easy, IF they fit correctly. The outer shells have some tolerance to them, like anything but especially anything from the era of these cars, so you do have to make sure that the poly bushing fits tightly into the shell. If they don't the poly bushing won't work properly.
Mostly, I just wanted the next greatest thing. I was in there doing the work, the Delrin was out there and track tested by Peter Bergman, and I wanted to give it a rip. I've never had an issue with the poly LCA bushings, and in fact I have poly bushing installed on my '71 GT for when that one hits the road. The Duster is set up pretty aggressively for handling so it makes sense to go Delrin on it. With the poly bushings I make sure they fight tightly into the old outer shells, I use greasable LCA pins so they can be lubricated, and I run adjustable strut rods so that the length of the strut rod can be tuned so the LCA is held in the proper location and there's no binding of the suspension. The Delrin bushings are just the "next step" from poly. I used my greasable pins from Firm Feel with them anyway, as they turned out to be the best fit for the Delrin bushings out of all 3 sets of stock pins I had and two different aftermarket pins. So although I shouldn't need to keep greasing the Delrin I have the capability to do that if I need to. Poly will squeak if it dries out, and because of the difference in how the bushing works compared to rubber it needs lubrication. Both the poly and Delrin bushings spin on the LCA pin, where with the rubber bushing all the travel is basically flex in the rubber bushings so the bushing doesn't move on the pin or in the shell. The poly is not self lubricating, so, it needs to be lubricated. The Delrin is supposedly self lubricating, so it shouldn't need further lubrication after install.
@BergmanAutoCraft can give you more info on the Delrin bushings if you have any other questions. What LCA bushings you run really depends on the application. For how I set up my cars I would always use poly or Delrin, and the current quality of most of the rubber bushings out there right now (poor!!!) definitely adds to that. But I wouldn't use either of those without greaseable pins and adjustable strut rods because of the differences in how they work compared to rubber. The factory set up with the non-adjustable strut rods depends on having a ton of flex in the bushings to make up for the less than precise factory tolerances. Get rid of the flex by adding poly or delrin bushings and you need to dial in the strut rod length so nothing binds up.
