I've got a bottle heater, but it's a huge pain in the *** to heat the bottle up for spontaneous use. The system on my car right now has one of those dial style fuel pressure regulators for the nitrous. I also have a small infrared temp gun in the console that I use to check the temp of the n2o bottle (bottle is in a gym bag in back of the pass seat). If I'm prep'ing for a max power run, i'll warm up the bottle. But if i'm just going out somewhere looking for fun, i'll simply dial the fuel pressure on the nitrous back to match the anticipated bottle temp and skip heating the bottle.
Of course the lower the bottle temp the lower the level of power you will get out of the system. My n20 fuel pressure regulator's dial has detents in 0.5psi increments, here's the quick/dirty rule of thumb I use to set the n2o side's fuel regulator dial to match bottle temp, along with the lower percentage of power added-
90 degree 960 psi bottle = 5.5 psi n2o fuel 100%
82 degree 871 psi bottle = 5.0 psi n2o fuel 91%
74 degree 790 psi bottle = 4.5 psi n2o fuel 82%
64 degree 697 psi bottle = 4.0 psi n2o fuel 73%
54 degree 612 psi bottle = 3.5 psi n2o fuel 64%
42 degree 521 psi bottle = 3.0 psi n2o fuel 54%
The basic thinking is if you want a 100hp system and your anticipated bottle temp is only 74 degrees, jets in the system for 120hp with a 90 degree bottle and 5.5 psi fuel pressure should net you around 100hp with 74 degree bottle and 4.5psi fuel pressure. Your AFR gauge will let you know if the same math will work for you. I don't use a fuel pressure safety switch.
Grant
