451 Build with 1.094 Wrist Pin

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72DMag

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Been thinking about the 451 that I am building. Most people upgrade to the .990 full floating piston pin but what about the 1.094 pressed pin? Is this a bad idea to run a pressed pin with a stroker? Is there a horsepower limit with that pin? All I can find is that people switch pins for weight reduction but I can't find anything that says its a bad pin for a stroker.

Lets say I build a 13:1 compression 451 would that pressed pin hold up with a hydraulic flat lifter cam shifting at 6000?
 
Yes. 451 stroker is a great combo.I would not be afraid of a pressed pin at 6,000 and hydraulic cam.
 
I found via summit that ross pistons has the +14 dome style that I am looking for and the 1.094 pin can be either pressed in or floating for their piston. if I make it floating then won't I need a bushing for the connecting rod?

Ross Dome Top Forged Pistons
 
13:1 compression and a heavy pressed pin don't seem like a good fit for each other. Are you planning to use 50 year old factory rods in that engine??
 
I'm thinking about using the stock rods just because I have access to rods with very very low mileage like around 10,000 miles and they look in great shape. Also saw 440 source sells a forged version of the stock rods. So figured I'd post and learn more regarding the 1.094 pin.
 
Also, the big reason for the high compression is because I would really like to run e85 with it. I have a few stations local to me and I have tested before and its been really reliable.
 
floating is not stronger , floating is better-less hassle to R + R pistons, less friction/heat-mopar used bronze bushings on 273-318-340 + 426 hemi etc. Good used old mopar V8 rods are forged and when magnafluxed, new bolts, straight, sized etc. are good rods
 
Been doing more research on this and it looks like there is no difference between running floating or pressed in pins. The only thing I can't find is if pressed in pins are good for a 13:1 compression?
 
Parts designed for pressed pins tend to be cheap rebuilder quality parts. Race engines use floating pins with bushed rods. Passenger cars use cast pistons and pressed pins. You should sit down with your engine builder and decide which way you're going and then you'll know which parts to use.
 
Why the burning desire to run 13:1? Is this an ego trip? High compression is generally tied to big race cams and high rpm. Have you research the potential corrosion problems and extra fuel requirements associated with E85?
 
I know of a lot of 600hp motors built with stock LY rods....... that are no longer with us because of an LY rod deciding it needed to be in two pieces.
 
If it's a budget build (is there such a thing?), you can get your machinist to size the rod pin end to .001" clearance with NO BUSHING, and drill/chamfer an oil feed hole in the top pad to lubricate. He will have to custom fit this to your actual pins you are running, so get the pistons FIRST. Have done this countless times with no issues. Sounds ghetto, but it will work fine. Ran heavy TRW dome slugs in a maxxed-out all-iron 383 (395") on a rail with 7200rpm shifts and also in a 446" RB with 250hp shot of nitrous for years. Have freshened both motors and pins/rods look fine. Still scary gambling on the stock rods (they are beamed/blasted and ARP bolted), but it is what it is. At higher levels, even aftermarket stuff will fail.
 
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