Manual trans swaps: Cheapest vs Easiest vs Best Performing vs Best Driving Experience

I disagree with this.
In my experience;
I'm talking about a 230* to 248 * @.050 (the 292/292/108 Mopar cam), running with a manual trans, and a 750DP carb, at 500/550 rpm in gear; It bucks because;
a) the timing is all wrong, and b) the powerpulses at 185psi cranking pressure are just too high.
Simply retarding the timing to delay, and reduce, peak cylinder pressure, cures this everytime. I have to do the same for fuel-injected cars.
I have tried other things but nothing works as well, or as easy, as just good old-fashioned retarded timing. And with the dash-mounted, adjustable, timing box, this takes about a second.
Your experience may be different.
Please note; I'm not attacking you or your work. This is simply my experience.



As for this, I totally agree, and I run one in mine, for two reasons, OK three,lol.
1) It smooths those pulses at low-rpm. and
2) When I take off normally,with a 10.97 starter gear, I blip the throttle to put some energy into that bad-boy, and more or less just dump the clutch. Not enough to chirp the tires, but enough to just take off nicely. 800 rpm in 10.97 gear is ~6 mph, and my 750Dp is happy to start pulling that just fine. and
3) it's what I had, and after I found out how to use it, I stopped looking for a lighter one at swap meets. and
4) Since my combo spins the tires so easy, and my shift splits are 78-80-78, with attending rpm drops of ~1200 rpm from 5700, as a streeter, I have never felt the need for a lighter flywheel.

I think I know where you're coming from, but not many can boast 1200 rpm drops.
I do this by using the GVod as a splitter, with a 3.09 Commando box. The ratios are 3.09-2.41-1.92-1.50 and 1.50 ratio with 3.55s gets me 88mph@5700, 93@ 6150
My 230 cam peaks around 5300 but the peak is fairly wide, so I let her buck, sometimes to 7000, the tires still spinning. Yeah, BFGs,lol. It's a streeter so I don't care about fast, just slipping and sliding.
And mathematically first-over gets me to 60@~6380rpm, tires blazing, but the tach is on the limiter at 7000.


Why would you let it idle at 500-550 in gear? These aren’t modern jap cars. That I don’t understand.

I ran the 292/108 for years. It idled at 950-1000, which is where the cam I use now idles, because a slow idle is a parts killer, especially with aggressive .904 lobes. And none of my personal stuff, or stuff I tune bucks. I just sent out a QF Brawler and distributor I tuned up and the guy is over the top happy, and that’s just a rough tune to start with. I know that doesn’t buck.

Doing a pair of carbs for his brother...two 750 DP for a street tunnel ram and I did his distributor. 248/248 .648/.648 108 solid roller and I can say with 100% accuracy, it will not buck. It’s all about tuning. I know you know that, because I read your posts and your tuning is on the money.