Locar kickdown adjustment

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Kent,
The k d Lever rotates a valve that controls the transmission line pressure. At full throttle, manually shifting or not, you want this lever fully applied or close to it. If this is adjusted wrong the tranny won’t shift well and eventually burn A clutch pack. It’s also activates the “passing gear”, or kickdown.
If you are using the stock mechanical kickdown linkage adjusted properly you’ll be ok. I’m trying to get full pressure and proper shifting with the locar cable. The quicksilver shifter will have nothing to do with this, all That does is move the shift linkage.
Thanks lemondana, that’s good info if I go in search of the right lever.
 
Thanks @gm1236 . I just installed the lokar KD last night but I have not made any adjustments or set it up. This thread has been helpful and your explanation makes it easier to understand.
 
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I decided to take matters into my own hands and just modify a lever. Now it’s the correct length and offset.
I haven’t tried it out yet, it’s snowing today here in Massachusetts. But it fit perfect, cleared the B&M shift cable. I now have full lever travel at w.o.t. With about 3/16 slack in the cable, much like before. Hopefully it shifts on time, kicks down and has full line pressure at w.o.t. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll be able to take it out for a blast or two.
 
Works perfect!
Shifts into 3rd with light throttle pressure, and has nice solid shifts at w.o.t.
Thanks guys, problem solved!
 
is that Hot Rod slide show correct in that the proper set up is to have the kick down lever on the transmission approximately 1/2 back with the motor at idle / no throttle pressure? Generally speaking is that really right? Or is that correct for a 727 and not a 904, or is that correct for that particular transmission?
 
When the lever is all the way to the front there is no spring pressure therefore no throttle pressure. That’s why they recommend to have the lever back so there is some tension, then the throttle pressure raises accordingly when the lever gets pulled back so the tranny can operate properly. Kim
 
I set mine up at w.o.t. Just a little slack in the cable. With the carb at idle there is about 3/16 slack in the cable. There is about 1/4 turn of k.d. lever travel before you feel the spring tension. When the throttle opens enough to take up the 3/16 slack it starts to apply pressure to the throttle valve. If your into that spring tension at idle it’s going to shift late and hard. Some guys run a return spring on the lever to help this. I did some editing to try to make this clearer, but I’m not sure I did.
 
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i don't know that mine is at half way ( been years since i installed it) but its surely not all the way forward at idle. and if i remember correctly its not 100% back at WOT either. if it was my trans would shift way late or not at all..
 
View attachment 1715510925 I decided to take matters into my own hands and just modify a lever. Now it’s the correct length and offset.
I haven’t tried it out yet, it’s snowing today here in Massachusetts. But it fit perfect, cleared the B&M shift cable. I now have full lever travel at w.o.t. With about 3/16 slack in the cable, much like before. Hopefully it shifts on time, kicks down and has full line pressure at w.o.t. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll be able to take it out for a blast or two.

Do you know what your measurement is between the hole for the pivot, to the stud for the cable?
I shortened mine some, but not enough.
 
I made it 1 3/4, same as the short one. Acccording to the hot rod article, it should be the same as the pivot lenght of the carb linkage. Mine was between 1 1/2 and 1 3/4. I used a lever with the same clock position as the long lever. It shouldn’t matter though. Just. Need to shorten the cable.
 
sounds about right. not sure how much slack i have in mine.

Can you snap a picture or explain the slack in your line? I've had a hell of a time adjusting my lokar cable. I haven't been able to get a good 2-3 shift. Honestly my 1-2 shift is a little weak too with the new tf2 and 2500 tc. I've been making adjustments like a **** on my cable.

My kickdown lever is the small one and is positioned right where it starts to get tension on there. Here is how much slack I have in my line currently, and although its hard to see there are probably 15 ripples of different spots I've tried it at. I set it where at wot the kd lever is all the way back and my 2-3 shift is way late with wot, give it more slack and the shifts are soft and 2-3 shift isn't super late but isn't hard either.

Its been a pain in my *** and I don't want to burn up the newly rebuilt transmission.

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When mine was to tight wasn't shifting at all.

I'll check it out some more in a bit.
 
lots of variables. but yea too tight and it will shift late or not at all. too loose and it will short shift..

i always start with adjustment at the bracket int he middle. then once you get in the ball park you can fine tune at the bracket...
 
lots of variables. but yea too tight and it will shift late or not at all. too loose and it will short shift..

i always start with adjustment at the bracket int he middle. then once you get in the ball park you can fine tune at the bracket...

Just had my daughter press on the gas and my wife mark the kickdown line where the adjuster screw stopped and I looked at the kickdown lever to see where it was stopping. I think I have it at the "perfect" spot right now.

Only thing I can think if it doesn't work is the kickdown lever isn't pressed all the way down due to the screw hitting the shifter lever it sits on top of. I have a 904 and put the 727 shifter lever on it because it was straight, with it being straight and not dropping down if I put the kickdown lever all the way down the screw scrapes the 727 shifter lever.
 
Just had my daughter press on the gas and my wife mark the kickdown line where the adjuster screw stopped and I looked at the kickdown lever to see where it was stopping. I think I have it at the "perfect" spot right now.

Only thing I can think if it doesn't work is the kickdown lever isn't pressed all the way down due to the screw hitting the shifter lever it sits on top of. I have a 904 and put the 727 shifter lever on it because it was straight, with it being straight and not dropping down if I put the kickdown lever all the way down the screw scrapes the 727 shifter lever.

In post #31 you can see the lever I made out of a long one. I had to make it offset up to clear the B&M shifter linkage. They do make a stock one with the correct offset. It’s possible the kick down lever is hanging up on the shift linkage or it’s not down far enough to catch the flat on the throttle shaft.
 
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