Fitech- New install, no start.

-

Red_Duster

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2019
Messages
458
Reaction score
282
Location
California
Hi guys, got my tank up today, poured a few gallons in and crossed my fingers. No start. Brand spanking new to EFI so not sure where to begin. I did the initial engine setup, not running timing control, can hear it getting a prime shot so it’s getting fuel but it’s acting like it’s flooded cracking the throttle doesn’t seem to help. Neighbor gave it a shot of ether when cranking and it fired for a second, big buff like it was flooded and died immediately. Getting RPM signal on the handheld while cranking so im pretty confident with the wiring. Anyone have a similar setup with some baseline parameters to get it running?

Fitech 600
440
MSD 6AL
Idle set to 850
296/296 .557 cam (I used setting 3?)
 
If it fired with fuel added then it sounds like your lacking fuel. Have you primed the system several times before trying to start?
 
I don't know anything about FiTec injection but if it's carbureted you floor the pedal to clear excess fuel. If it wasn't starting, I would pull some plugs to see if they're soaked with gas.
I don't know if it is throttle body injection or port injection, but if tbi you would be able to look down the tb and see the fuel spray. If port injection you could feel/hear the injector pulse. They also make noid lights to light up when injector pulses, so you could visually see them firing off.
first thing, I'd confirm, is that you have adequate grounds for everything.
If it's tpi, how does it get its signal for timing? Did you change the ignition side of the equation?
 
Well, I’m pleased and embarrassed to inform everyone it was a simple fix. Pulled a plug- bone dry, so no fuel? Pulled the line off the TB, no fuel... well, I crossed the send and return on my regulator. Swapped them and fired right up. Wow. So Far I’m really impressed with the idle quality.
 
hahaha . well good to hear. Keep us updated on the setup. I'd like to hear a thorough review.

will do. Been saving for this setup a while and Fitech has a rebate right now so I pulled the trigger. Tanks inc with in tank pump, LS regulator so no return line from the throttle body and the fitech unit. One I get the fuel side dialed in I will give it timing control as well. But wow, just letting it warm up and idle for about 20 min in the garage the idle is noticeably smoother. Throttle response was crazy fast when I cracked it, too. Really can’t wait to get it on the road, might have to wait until this weekend however.
 
There’s several FiTech threads floating around FABO that have lots of good info.
 
will do. Been saving for this setup a while and Fitech has a rebate right now so I pulled the trigger. Tanks inc with in tank pump, LS regulator so no return line from the throttle body and the fitech unit. One I get the fuel side dialed in I will give it timing control as well. But wow, just letting it warm up and idle for about 20 min in the garage the idle is noticeably smoother. Throttle response was crazy fast when I cracked it, too. Really can’t wait to get it on the road, might have to wait until this weekend however.

Thats the way to do it. Get you car running good then switch it over to Fitech timing. Big learning curve but thats a fantastic system. Make sure you get the software on your computer so you can download and see every function. Baby steps!
 
If you're going to run timing control make sure that you route the high EMI generating wires away from the Fitech wires. I had a lot of issues when I had the supercharged engine in my car because all of the wiring had to be jammed behind the supercharger next to the distributor. The engine would run fine and just kind of shut off like you turned off the key. I would check the error codes and I would get a RPM noise error. I have since replaced the supercharged engine with a 416 stroker and I moved all of my ignition components, voltage regulator and starter relay to a panel that is located under the dash. I also concealed all the wiring that I could in the engine compartment by running it through the frame rail. I no longer have any issues with my fuel injection and everything runs fine. By the way this is a 600 horsepower power adder system and I am currently running timing control. By the way I recommend that you do not run one of the cheap Chinese MSD knock-off distributors. I had an issue with a TSP unit that didn't fit properly into the distributor gear and allowed my timing to vary as much as 10 degrees. It took awhile to figure that one out. I bought a real MSD distributor and haven't had any issues since.
20180408_013526.jpg
If I can do anything for you just ask.
 
Well, I’m pleased and embarrassed to inform everyone it was a simple fix. Pulled a plug- bone dry, so no fuel? Pulled the line off the TB, no fuel... well, I crossed the send and return on my regulator. Swapped them and fired right up. Wow. So Far I’m really impressed with the idle quality.

glad you found it, don't feel bad I swapped mine during install too. once I found it, fired right up.
so far I am very happy with the system.
 
If you're going to run timing control make sure that you route the high EMI generating wires away from the Fitech wires. I had a lot of issues when I had the supercharged engine in my car because all of the wiring had to be jammed behind the supercharger next to the distributor. The engine would run fine and just kind of shut off like you turned off the key. I would check the error codes and I would get a RPM noise error. I have since replaced the supercharged engine with a 416 stroker and I moved all of my ignition components, voltage regulator and starter relay to a panel that is located under the dash. I also concealed all the wiring that I could in the engine compartment by running it through the frame rail. I no longer have any issues with my fuel injection and everything runs fine. By the way this is a 600 horsepower power adder system and I am currently running timing control. By the way I recommend that you do not run one of the cheap Chinese MSD knock-off distributors. I had an issue with a TSP unit that didn't fit properly into the distributor gear and allowed my timing to vary as much as 10 degrees. It took awhile to figure that one out. I bought a real MSD distributor and haven't had any issues since.View attachment 1715513702 If I can do anything for you just ask.

Now that is a great looking engine bay.
 
Now that is a great looking engine bay.
Thanks, I owe a lot to a good buddy of mine, Larry (64mopar). He put a ton of time into it. We have his '64 Barracuda apart right now and progress has been halted for the last month because of the Covid19 pandemic. I want to get back to his either this Saturday or next. It's going to be a thrash to make up for lost time.
 
@superchargeddrt Your inbox is full. :)

When you setup timing control, how did you set up your rotor?

Here is how I did mine, but I am getting conflicting info.

1. Locked MSD dist
2. Set initial timing @18* BTDC on balancer
3. Aligned reluctor wheel in the middle of the magnet
4. I am stuck on the adjustable rotor step. The info I read said to rotate it to 18* (to match timing) but if I do that, the rotor tip isn't near #1 post.

I have a second cap and I drilled a hole in it and I just rotated the rotor till it lined up with #1. I am not sure this is correct.

It finally fired, but it was a hard start. It idled good and was responsive when revved. I don't have the car complete, yet so I can't drive it.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Taking notes for when I set it up too. Probably going with the Dizzy from blueprint next month.
 
I have to find my info on adjusting the phasing of the rotor I think (if I remember correctly) that they wanted it to be set 50 degrees advanced as the Fitech can not really advance the timing so it actually so that it gets the signal to fire early. You can delay then retard on the display so that it fires when you want. I think that all I did was rotate the distributor to match the display. It's been running perfectly since. I will look for my instructions.
 
I have to find my info on adjusting the phasing of the rotor I think (if I remember correctly) that they wanted it to be set 50 degrees advanced as the Fitech can not really advance the timing so it actually so that it gets the signal to fire early. You can delay then retard on the display so that it fires when you want. I think that all I did was rotate the distributor to match the display. It's been running perfectly since. I will look for my instructions.

Great. I understand setting the base to match the handheld. I am just not sure on the phasing. I am actually wondering if I just need to make sure the rotor is firing on the correct terminal (not in between or jumping spark)
 
I run timing control with my Fitech and a stock dist. I checked the phasing with a drilled cap and it worked out really well with everything stock (but I locked out mechanical advance with an FBO limiter plate and unplugged vac advance).

I run ~18 deg initial timing with my 'base degrees' set to 15 and then tweaking the dist until everything matches. Leaving at least 3 degrees between base and initial lets the ECU adjust the timing to hold a steadier idle (typically it swings +-3 degrees).
 
I run timing control with my Fitech and a stock dist. I checked the phasing with a drilled cap and it worked out really well with everything stock (but I locked out mechanical advance with an FBO limiter plate and unplugged vac advance).

I run ~18 deg initial timing with my 'base degrees' set to 15 and then tweaking the dist until everything matches. Leaving at least 3 degrees between base and initial lets the ECU adjust the timing to hold a steadier idle (typically it swings +-3 degrees).

So you have 18* on the balancer and 15* where? In the handheld or in the adjustable? rotor
 
So you have 18* on the balancer and 15* where? In the handheld or in the adjustable? rotor

15 in the handheld where it says "Distrib base deg"

When I setup my ignition on the Fitech, I do the same thing each time. I put 15 degrees into ALL fields. I then get the engine fired and twist the distributor until it reads 15 degrees on the balancer. Since the timing fluctuates at idle, I typically have the wife hold the revs up a bit or I'll put a few turns into the idle screw to get it out of 'idle' mode. With everything set to 15 deg I don't have to worry about what the actual RPM is when I set the timing..

Once dialed in I set my idle timing to 18 and other values accordingly.

This has worked each time for me and when I checked the phasing with the drilled cap, the rotor tip didn't stray far enough from the terminal to cause me any issues. I don't have an adjustable rotor.
 
15 in the handheld where it says "Distrib base deg"

When I setup my ignition on the Fitech, I do the same thing each time. I put 15 degrees into ALL fields. I then get the engine fired and twist the distributor until it reads 15 degrees on the balancer. Since the timing fluctuates at idle, I typically have the wife hold the revs up a bit or I'll put a few turns into the idle screw to get it out of 'idle' mode. With everything set to 15 deg I don't have to worry about what the actual RPM is when I set the timing..

Once dialed in I set my idle timing to 18 and other values accordingly.

This has worked each time for me and when I checked the phasing with the drilled cap, the rotor tip didn't stray far enough from the terminal to cause me any issues. I don't have an adjustable rotor.

Ok. I understand. So did you set a timing curve, or lock the timing at a specific degree? I don't have the handheld in front of me to tell you the exact term they used
 
Ok. I understand. So did you set a timing curve, or lock the timing at a specific degree? I don't have the handheld in front of me to tell you the exact term they used

I run 18 idle/initial, then at 1100rpm I'm at ~26, at 3k I'm all-in at 32 and at 6k still 32. All the 45kPa values are the same - 45 degrees.

Runs great. I've found that proper timing, well-sealed exhaust (no header leaks, no collector leaks), are very important for the system to run well. I also run the lower revs a little richer (13.5-13.6 AFR versus 14-15 at high vac and higher revs) to avoid stumbles.
 
-
Back
Top