383 Performer Intake and Valley Pan Install

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roadrunnerh

roadrunnerh

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Should I just use the valley pan with no gaskets? Stock 906 heads, not cut. This FelPro valley pan came with FOUR gaskets. I know to put a little goop on the 4 corners of the pan and across the top and rear of the block, but what about around the intake ports on the head?
I am considering just spraying copper permatex on both sides mating surfaces of the valley pan and place the intake on the engine. I was told to only use the gaskets between the pan and head.
Thanks for your thoughts and experience fellas!
 
Tell us what all kind of gaskets it came with? We know the valley pan. What else? What are they made of? I believe this is one where you need to use a "gasket sammich" if you will. Gaskets on the heads, valley pan then gaskets on top of that. Lets us know what kind of gaskets. Thank you drive through.
 
Ok. "I" would use 3M yellow weatherstrip glue in a "few" places and glue the gaskets to the heads. Next, install the valley pan. Finally lay the second set of gaskets on the valley pan. Now, look about how much space you have between the china walls and the valley pan. Take everything back off and put enough RVT on both sides of the valley pan at the china walls to seal it good (but not be messy) and put it back together and bolt her down. Remember, only 20 LB FT on the intake bolts. If by some chance the intake bolt holes do not line up when you mock it up, you'll need to back up and punt.
 
I always had a little oil seepage with just the pan. Those thin gaskets make a big difference IMO!
 
She's on and bolts are snug. I ended up using the "paper" gasket between the valley pan and head, and not between the intake and pan. All four gaskets, dry mach up, it seemed a bit much...
I used Permatex #3 Aviation on the head and intake ports. Permatex Ultra Black on the china walls and corners.
 
I figured the better side would be the head/valley pan because the new intake has a greater likelihood of being more straight and flat than a 50 year old un-cut or shaved cylinder head.
 
Says you Kim.

For others members:
The reason I read is that you can suck oil up into the intake with the stock pan if you have minor casting issues or scratches on the head surfaces.

You can disagree without being a &ick.
 
Honestly I never use the paper on anything unless there's a fitment issue. I use a thin skin of Ultra Grey around the ports, and in the corners of the valley. Haven't had issues with that approach but I've only been doing them since '86.
 
Funny thing is, 10 people can give you 10 different opinions. As long as it seals well. I have seen your method moper.
 
I don't really care how you do it. All I did was recommend how "I" do it. It's always worked for me. If you use another direction, more power to you.
 
Rob, I followed your advice. Just when all four gaskets were mocked up, it looked too close for my comfort. Then I punted and went my route with eliminating the gaskets between intake and pan. Oh, I used different goop.
I had horrible memories of the the goop sandwich I created on my first attempt at adding a windage tray!
 
I ended up not using any gaskets on mine, the intake holes wouldn't line up with all 4 gaskets. It's been 7 or 8 years and is just now starting to seep a little oil. I'll probably take it all apart, clean it up, and put it back together the same way for another 7 to 8 years.
 
Nice, even though they don’t recommend a tin gasket to an alum intake it has been done forever b4 ppl knew better and is still done. Kim
 
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