Can't get more than 12.5 volts thru charging system
If the battery is low, its going to be sucking a ton of power trying to recharge. Do the test with the lights and fan after the battery is fully recharged (ammeter showing zero).
The black wires shown in the diagram are all hot (positive) wires. Chrysler used black for the alternator output wires and other feeds.
The schematic does not show the ground wires.
To be complete, it should show the electric flow back to the alternator case (its ground) from the battery and the spark plugs..
So yes, if there are bad ground connections between the alternator and the block and the battery, this will throw off the voltage differences; but we don't see evidence to come to this conclusion from what you've posted so far.
1. See what the ammeter is indicating under each condition. (idle rpm with no equipment on, fast idle with no equipment, etc etc)
If the battery is charging, then let it fully charge. If it is charging heavily, put it on a charger. This is much much better using the car's system to bring up a drained battery.
2. Then measure voltage to ground at different locations under each condition. Battery positive , alternator output stud and ignition run connection to regulator.
3. If there are differences, then measure for voltage between ground locations and measure voltage differences along the current paths.
'67 Dart would have one ground cable from the battery to the block, and a smaller ground wire from the back of the block to the firewall near the blower motor.
No problem. Thanks for clarifying. Yes single field wire.
Honestly, that's barely in the specified range, especially cold. The service test is generally with the engine held to 1250 rpm, it should be able to provide something like 25 amps with the voltage at 15 V. The exact number of amps varied with the alternator. But what your doing by turning on the lights and heater fan is an OK substitute. The only question, and its a BIG question, is how much current the battery is drawing.
If the battery is low, its going to be sucking a ton of power trying to recharge. Do the test with the lights and fan after the battery is fully recharged (ammeter showing zero).
Possible, but not likely.
The black wires shown in the diagram are all hot (positive) wires. Chrysler used black for the alternator output wires and other feeds.
The schematic does not show the ground wires.
To be complete, it should show the electric flow back to the alternator case (its ground) from the battery and the spark plugs..
So yes, if there are bad ground connections between the alternator and the block and the battery, this will throw off the voltage differences; but we don't see evidence to come to this conclusion from what you've posted so far.
1. See what the ammeter is indicating under each condition. (idle rpm with no equipment on, fast idle with no equipment, etc etc)
If the battery is charging, then let it fully charge. If it is charging heavily, put it on a charger. This is much much better using the car's system to bring up a drained battery.
2. Then measure voltage to ground at different locations under each condition. Battery positive , alternator output stud and ignition run connection to regulator.
3. If there are differences, then measure for voltage between ground locations and measure voltage differences along the current paths.
'67 Dart would have one ground cable from the battery to the block, and a smaller ground wire from the back of the block to the firewall near the blower motor.
