It is a complicated circuit that must be fine tuned in order to minimize the bog associated with opening the outboard carbs through the vacuum circuit. Fist of all, the center carb is known to slightly warp around the float bowl fastening screws due to a thinner design. When that happens, it can allow fuel into the vacuum chamber, which directly affects the outboard carbs. No or low vacuum delays the outboard carbs from drawing in the air/fuel mixture, delaying the application of that additional fuel, causing the bog. A complete rebuild of the carbs would require filing the mating surfaces flat on the center carb metering plate and the throttle body housing where they meet. The compensate for this, there used to be an aftermarket fix for the outboard carbs where you drill and fit accelerator pumps to eliminate the reliance on vacuum to draw in the fuel.
Tuning a six pak setup is a labor of frustration unless all of the components are in top shape, including wires, plugs, distributor, coil, and fuel distribution. Some old schoolers can whiz right through it, most people (including myself) can not. I’m learning tho, and am in the middle of rebuilding my entire setup. Currently waiting on the diaphragm rebuild kits to arrive, which are not included in any kit.
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