Hard to start, found problem. Now Why?

Yet;
how are you ventilating the blow-by gasses?
Typically;
If your car is calibrated for a PCV, but you don't run it;
then you will have to open the throttles further at idle to give the engine back the missing air. But this puts the throttles further up the transfer slots, so she goes rich. In compensation, you close the mixture screws, to get some semblance of idle quality. Then, it idles, but as soon as you tip the throttles in, it goes lean because of the missing idle fuel.
But, it is possible to get those back closer to synchronicity by advancing the timing. This works if you have a loose convertor. So this advancing speeds up the engine, and makes the low-speed operation a lil more powerful. So now you can lower the idle-speed, which shuts off the transfers, and in compensation, you can open the mixture screws back up.
But this will increase your low-speed power, because you have moved the point of max pressure closer to the best point of power delivery to the crank. Depending on the rest of the combo, this could be between; a great idea and a lousy idea.
Your timing might now be around 18/20* at idle. If you have a loose TC this will be fine. But with a lower stall TC, this might not be. Because you have 15/17 more degrees to feed it by ~3200 rpm, and if the engine has to work in that band, you might put her into detonation.
Or if you have a manual trans, the low-speed operation is gonna be jumpy as the powerful individual pulses hammer the crank.

But the real problem comes at WOT, when the blow-by gasses are the highest; they have to go somewhere. If you have not made provision for that, then they will find their own way out. And if that happens to be by blowing out the rear cam plug; you are gonna be one cranky person.

If you are sharp, you will have already seen,in this post, the reason for your hard-start, and why it went away after plugging the PCV port.

But, right now, I gotta go to work.