65 Formula S tach rebuild service

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pbiggs

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I just finished pulling the inop factory 65 Barracuda tachometer and sending unit out for rebuild/repairs. I've seen previous FABO threads on where to send for rebuild a search of the forum turns up nothing. Any suggestions on the best place to send the tach and sending unit out to get it working again.
Thanks
 
There is a company - maybe RTS - that sells a drop-in solid state circuit board for the sardine can. Usually that’s all that’s needed to get the tach to work again. I read that even with the new circuit board, it’s still not as accurate as modern day equipment.
 
The old OEM SW was painfully slow to react. you could bounce the tack off the stops just by revving it. Not sure you can fix without replacing the innards, just seemed too 'heavy'.
 
Thanks for the replies.....but I suspect there is an issue with the tach innards itself. I say that because the tach doesn't register when connected to working sending unit.
I'm looking for a company or business that specializes in instrument repair. Perhaps a recommendation for a good company and/or a heads up on one to avoid.
 
take the back off and show us what makes it tick. could be a cracked solder joint, bad needle bushing, hair spring...The needle is a very delicate pivot, can become dislocated if the tach has been dropped or shocked.
 
pbiggs said:
I'm looking for a company or business that specializes in instrument repair. Perhaps a recommendation for a good company and/or a heads up on one to avoid.
Click to expand...

I’d give Instrument Specialties a call.
 
This method works for the early console tachs that have an external sender...don't know if it works with dash tachs...

Test the tach with a "D" size battery...take yellow wire and touch "+" side of D-cell battery, take black wire and connect to "-" side of D-cell battery, needle should move to around 2,000 RPM and hold steady...if it does not move, it's dead

148581-5a434d8cf001d2702990cd30232da6f9.jpg
 
This one is awesome...program your max rpm on old dial, DIP switch 8 cyl, manually move needle on shaft stop to 0. use program button to move needle up to 1K, set. Program button to raise needle to max rpm, set. It will figure out the divisions! $117 today, 90 pounds sterling. Get that real '65 SW tach and faceplate working with modern ignitions (points even) with a new heart.
https://urevco.com/
 
Here's a few more that might work on that particular tach.
Bob's Speedometer
10123 Bergin Road
Howell, Michigan 48843
www.bobsspeedometer.com

Instrument Specialties
Conn.
Instrument Specialties

John Wolf & company
::JOHN WOLF and CO.INC :: Willoughby, restoration of speedometer, tachometer, Automobiles ,Aircraft ,Boats ,Custom Instrumentation Gas Tank Sending Units, Mechanical Temperature Gauges
Willoughby Ohio

Mr. Heater Box
4126 Henderson Rd Harrowsmith, ON K0H 1V0
Welcome — Mr Heaterbox and Interior Restoration Services
 
How much do any of those guys charge to fix a 2 part tach...Is it cheaper than $117? That would get you that zip bang electronic 21 century tach retrofit. Hate to have someone get their old sardine can fixed to stock specs for $80 and then find out it still can't read an MSD or electronic ignition.
 
pishta said:
How much do any of those guys charge to fix a 2 part tach...Is it cheaper than $117? That would get you that zip bang electronic 21 century tach retrofit. Hate to have someone get their old sardine can fixed to stock specs for $80 and then find out it still can't read an MSD or electronic ignition.[/
65Val said:
This method works for the early console tachs that have an external sender...don't know if it works with dash tachs...

Test the tach with a "D" size battery...take yellow wire and touch "+" side of D-cell battery, take black wire and connect to "-" side of D-cell battery, needle should move to around 2,000 RPM and hold steady...if it does not move, it's dead

View attachment 1715482566
Click to expand...
Darn!!!! I did your tach test with "D" battery and sure enough the needle moved to just above the 2K mark and stayed there.
Kudos to you for the suggestion...Not sending the tach out for repair after all. I guess I'll order the RTE kit and give that a try.
Click to expand...
 
pbiggs said:
Darn!!!! I did your tach test with "D" battery and sure enough the needle moved to just above the 2K mark and stayed there.
Kudos to you for the suggestion...Not sending the tach out for repair after all. I guess I'll order the RTE kit and give that a try.
Click to expand...

Glad to help...I know it helped me when I did my console tach install.....

ConsoleTachInstalled Apr-2018.JPG
 
That replacement board from RTE works well up until you hook it up backwards (which I did) and then it'll blow the low ohm (<5 ohms) resistor meant to protect it and then all bets are off. I replaced mine and got er going again and it works well.
 
cudajim said:
That replacement board from RTE works well up until you hook it up backwards (which I did) and then it'll blow the low ohm (<5 ohms) resistor meant to protect it and then all bets are off. I replaced mine and got er going again and it works well.
Click to expand...

Got the RTE board yesterday....no wiring instructions what so ever were included, so I can see how you may have mistakenly hooked it up backwards.
Thanks for the heads up.
 
@pbiggs, I fixed your board...maybe you can test it when you get it back? I don't have a way to test it but all components are good now.
 
pishta said:
@pbiggs, I fixed your board...maybe you can test it when you get it back? I don't have a way to test it but all components are good now.
Click to expand...

Great...will PayPal money sent to you return it to me?
Need PayPal info,
Thanks, Pat
 
Just thought I'd share what I did with my '65 FS tach. After checking around I decided to spend the money and get it done once and be finished with it. My original tach has a faded face, yellowed letters and pitted chrome bezel. I sent it off to Instrument Specialties in RI, and they are very familiar with these. So...they will install a new movement, (Urevco mentioned above by Pishta), re-silk screen the face, re-plate and detail paint the argent in the bezel, vacuum metalize the center button, buff & polish the lens and calibrate. It will be better than new and have a damped movement and eliminate the sender box. Cost is $589. A lot know, but I can probably sell the sender box and reclaim some of the cost once I get it back and move forward. It will work with points, Pertronix or electronic ignition...done.
 
pishta said:
@pbiggs, I fixed your board...maybe you can test it when you get it back? I don't have a way to test it but all components are good now.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the job well done. My car is currently away from me for a while. When I get it back, I will give the can a test.
Sorry so long getting back.
 
pishta said:
@pbiggs, I fixed your board...maybe you can test it when you get it back? I don't have a way to test it but all components are good now.
Click to expand...
Well, I connected the rebuilt tach board to my Barracuda tach....and the tach doesn't work.
I did the bench test using a 1.5 volt battery and the tach read 2000 rpm, so I guess the board is the culprit.
Thanks for the try, you never know unless you try.
Pat
 
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