Evans Coolant Temps

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Have been in contact with Evans as well figured I would send what I sent to them for people here to see as well.


Pulled the thermostat and took it back out (this was per Evans request)

Drove about 6 miles total.

Started the trip around 120 she climbed to 180-185 while driving at 40-50mph.

Turned around and sat for maybe a minute on the side of the road to see if it would rise, it did, I got back on the road with the temp at 220.

Drove 2-3 miles cooled to 210 and turned around again to head for home. Just before entering the neighborhood I was at 210 by the time I drove the two blocks I was at 240 shutting it down as I pulled into my shop.

Gauge rose to 250 after shut off and has started to go back down now 5 min later.
 
charger426 said:
Yeah as much as I'm not liking the idea of spending like a grand on a new rad its looking like I'll have too.... I'll look at griffin, have talked to US Radiators as well.

Edit: Just looked at griffin and they don't offer a radiator for my application. I need a passenger side inlet (top) and driver side outlet (bottom).
Click to expand...
Can you use one of their cross flow radiators?
 
charger426 said:
Have been in contact with Evans as well figured I would send what I sent to them for people here to see as well.


Pulled the thermostat and took it back out (this was per Evans request)

Drove about 6 miles total.

Started the trip around 120 she climbed to 180-185 while driving at 40-50mph.

Turned around and sat for maybe a minute on the side of the road to see if it would rise, it did, I got back on the road with the temp at 220.

Drove 2-3 miles cooled to 210 and turned around again to head for home. Just before entering the neighborhood I was at 210 by the time I drove the two blocks I was at 240 shutting it down as I pulled into my shop.

Gauge rose to 250 after shut off and has started to go back down now 5 min later.
Click to expand...
I didnt catch what vehicle you have this engine in?
Pic's always help
You may want to try straight distilled water with a bottle of water pump lubricant in it.
I will not cure your problem but it will help.
 
512Stroker said:
I didnt catch what vehicle you have this engine in?
Pic's always help
You may want to try straight distilled water with a bottle of water pump lubricant in it.
I will not cure your problem but it will help.
Click to expand...
71 Swinger can try and post a pic in a bit. Moved away from the car while it cooled down.
 
Picture of current not enough set up.

DA893B7F-2147-41AC-8CC4-511B76599DDB.jpeg
 
512Stroker said:
Man that is tight.
Just out of curiosity, have you ever driven it with the hood off?
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Nope. Back when it was just an old truck motor with some trickflow heads and cam it ran nice and cool. But I never tuned the carb and it was FAAAAAT.

Now that I’ve tried to do things right it’s not working out.
 
charger426 said:
Have been in contact with Evans as well figured I would send what I sent to them for people here to see as well.


Pulled the thermostat and took it back out (this was per Evans request)

Drove about 6 miles total.

Started the trip around 120 she climbed to 180-185 while driving at 40-50mph.

Turned around and sat for maybe a minute on the side of the road to see if it would rise, it did, I got back on the road with the temp at 220.

Drove 2-3 miles cooled to 210 and turned around again to head for home. Just before entering the neighborhood I was at 210 by the time I drove the two blocks I was at 240 shutting it down as I pulled into my shop.

Gauge rose to 250 after shut off and has started to go back down now 5 min later.
Click to expand...


I always ran a restricter plate in place of the thermostat, you can't just take it out because the water goes through the rad to fast and doesn't have enough time to cool. I played with some different sizes till I found the right size that worked the best.
 
charger426 said:
Nope. Back when it was just an old truck motor with some trickflow heads and cam it ran nice and cool. But I never tuned the carb and it was FAAAAAT.

Now that I’ve tried to do things right it’s not working out.
Click to expand...
Been there
I think what you got going is not just one item that you are going to swap out out and it magically going to cool. Everything is going have to be just right.
Timing
carb
Radiator
Fan
Airflow thru the engine compartment/front grill
Water pump
Pulley drive ratio
Hoses
Hi flow stat
Coolant
In other words the works, if one item is not 100% it will bite ya and you will lose cooling performance.
 
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brian6pac said:
I always ran a restricter plate in place of the thermostat, you can't just take it out because the water goes through the rad to fast and doesn't have enough time to cool. I played with some different sizes till I found the right size that worked the best.
Click to expand...

So Evans is very..... passionate about no thermostat. I'm with you and others with that slowing the coolant down and getting it to cool in the rad would make sense. But they want the most flow humanly possible. They claim that since their coolant doesnt boil it doesn't need as much time in the rad....seems like that goes against logic to me...
 
If it's flowing too fast to cool, there's probably cavitation somewhere. It's not because the coolant is flowing too fast through the radiator.
 
plymouth4onthefloor said:
Stealth electric fan
Evans increases the boiling temperature, does only have minor effects in cooling. --
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-- Agree. -- Not a fan of Evans Coolant, it can hide, or create, other problems, as it did on My 408, with a warped aluminum head. Besides, the higher boiling point can cook an engine, before it boils. -- My 2 cents.
 
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charger426 said:
So Evans is very..... passionate about no thermostat. I'm with you and others with that slowing the coolant down and getting it to cool in the rad would make sense. But they want the most flow humanly possible. They claim that since their coolant doesnt boil it doesn't need as much time in the rad....seems like that goes against logic to me...
Click to expand...
Listen partner you can dump all the snake oil in your cooling system you want and it is not going to cure the problems with your cooling system. Address the issues with engineering before damage is done.
 
Evans says to take out the thermostat and you don't need a pressure cap higher than 3-4 psi because it boiling point is 375*F, It's all BS if you ask me.
 
brian6pac said:
Evans says to take out the thermostat and you don't need a pressure cap higher than 3-4 psi because it boiling point is 375*F, It's all BS if you ask me.
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Oh now I understand
You can run your engine up to 375*
All you will have is alot of very hot coolant and a fried engine. LOL
Makes sense to me.
 
Keep in mind your gauges work proper! A wrong combination of sender units and gauges will never work!
140° on the top hose feels comfortable with your hand, 180° feels ok for 1 or 2 seconds, 210 feels really hot
Proper cooling is a complete package:
ignition timing, fuel mixture, hiflo thermostat, hiflo waterpump, ratio pulleys, hipo radiator, fan, fan shroud, cold air intake, cooling fluid mixture, keep in mind water has a better cooling effect. water hoses with springs inside.
 
512Stroker said:
Listen partner you can dump all the snake oil in your cooling system you want and it is not going to cure the problems with your cooling system. Address the issues with engineering before damage is done.
Click to expand...
I mean that’s what I’m trying to do....no snake oil talk here. If you want to talk snakes we can, the viper is really cool.
 
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