POLYLOC MOTOR MOUNTS

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How long ago did you buy your last one?

First set bought in March of 2012, I know I got another set in 2014 and bought their brackets with rubber mounts in Jan of 2018.
So somewhere in there they sent me a 3rd set of poly locs.
Timeframes were dictated by availability, whether in stock or not, r&r, heat shields, weather, etc.

I never felt a vibration, never saw the engine move while driving.
I've driven it with a hood scoop and just a hole in the hood. No way heat is a factor.

If I were to design them, I certainly would not allow the two opposing sides to slide past one another vertically - that's exactly the direction the engine is twisting.

I don't doubt they work for some, however I believe they have failed for some who never look or notice.

Whatever the mount, the counter sunk bolt through the mount with a loose fitting lock nut is the way to go.
 
Bent

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well I have looked at mine a few times when i changed the engine , and they look fine , not sure heat would be a problem with the TTI headers . I did notice more vibration when i changed over from the stockmounts . if they do breal I'm going solid mounts .
 
I also run Moroso solid I do notice a bit of vibration at or above cruising speed do not really notice it going through the gears too much other craziness going on. My car is a 4-speed heavy clutch and drag radials
 
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I've tried the unbreakable bolt through rubber isolators, and they failed. Welded up a stock set of rubber isolators and they did not fail, but tingled a little bit through the floor pans and steering wheel.

I finally got tired of the solid mounts and fabbed up my own heim jointed torque strap,with urethane bushings as isolators for a fraction of the cost of poly locs or a pre-fabbed torque strap and I can preload it with the heim joint.

No more tingles, and the car seem much less "nervous" and yes I drive like a jack *** with a 4 speed, and I put about 15k miles per year on it.
 
Reviving this old thread. I’m looking for alternatives to the saggy Anchor original style mounts. I have a 400 hp 340 and TTI headers with a manual transmission. Just tired of the saggy mounts and headers knocking the torsion bars. Despite many hard launches on drag radials the rubber mounts haven’t torn but they’re definitely sagging and very loose it’s annoying. Will the poly mounts address this issue?
 
Reviving this old thread. I’m looking for alternatives to the saggy Anchor original style mounts. I have a 400 hp 340 and TTI headers with a manual transmission. Just tired of the saggy mounts and headers knocking the torsion bars. Despite many hard launches on drag radials the rubber mounts haven’t torn but they’re definitely sagging and very loose it’s annoying. Will the poly mounts address this issue?

I have about the same setup in my duster. Manual steering box, TTI’s with stock Zbar, 73 up drag link / brakes. I have the poly locks in with no problems of hitting the Tbars launching the car. I’m running Falken 615’s, maybe not as sticky as a drag radial... I have a rod style torque strap that was in when I had my other K frame in with rubber mounts. I’ve not put on the current K frame I have in the car with the Poly Loc, but will be soon. I can’t speak to the failures, but clearly other guys have had them. If your mainly drag racing the car, put solids in. I bet @yellow rose would say screw it and run solids on the street also...
 
I HAD POLY LOCS ON MY DART for 5 years and they came apart on year 4 . they work but not for that long there are better less expensive solutions somwhere in this thread i have the mounts i use now 2 years no problem on 500 hp 426 this is what i use now
Mancini Racing MagMount Motor Mount Set
 
I have about the same setup in my duster. Manual steering box, TTI’s with stock Zbar, 73 up drag link / brakes. I have the poly locks in with no problems of hitting the Tbars launching the car. I’m running Falken 615’s, maybe not as sticky as a drag radial... I have a rod style torque strap that was in when I had my other K frame in with rubber mounts. I’ve not put on the current K frame I have in the car with the Poly Loc, but will be soon. I can’t speak to the failures, but clearly other guys have had them. If your mainly drag racing the car, put solids in. I bet @yellow rose would say screw it and run solids on the street also...
Yep. If you have a 4-500 horse powerplant it isn't going to be a smooth and quiet Chrysler Imperial like experience anyway. Solid mounts might add some vibration but not a issue in a true hot rod.
 
I tried solid mounts and didn't like them. Took them out and sold them to @yellow rose Just to much vibration. I went with Poly Loc's, no problems so far. My 69 Dart has a mild 360 with A/C, P/S, 727 .
 
Yep. If you have a 4-500 horse powerplant it isn't going to be a smooth and quiet Chrysler Imperial like experience anyway. Solid mounts might add some vibration but not a issue in a true hot rod.

I’m pulling my motor out in a few weeks and most likely going to put a set of solids in and see how they are. To each their own...
 
I tried solid mounts and didn't like them. Took them out and sold them to @yellow rose Just to much vibration. I went with Poly Loc's, no problems so far. My 69 Dart has a mild 360 with A/C, P/S, 727 .
give it a few years , they will deteriorate and come apart , i thought they were great as well until i read a thread here and checked my poly mounts they were shot and it was not oil leaking on them no oil leaks on my car
 
give it a few years , they will deteriorate and come apart , i thought they were great as well until i read a thread here and checked my poly mounts they were shot and it was not oil leaking on them no oil leaks on my car

All cars leak oil, even million dollar race cars... :poke:
 
I run solids and have for the last couple of years. Just the slightest vibration very small you can feel in the gear shift not to the point that anything rattles. I hate vibration! I cured the problem of breaking motor mounts but now the motor wants to twist.. I will be extending the knobs that help hold the motor mount I'm considering drilling The dimple out completely and running a bolt through the k member and into the motor mount.
 
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